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Old 11-27-2012, 03:32 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I'm having this exact issue with the same turbo. I had a 30r before, got tore up and I got another one because I loved it. So this one I got the center section and compressor side are good, just need to rotate the exhaust side.... So I'm trying to understand about using a bolt to back it off. get one that's longer than came with it and screw it in until it prys it away? Not trying to be too rough on it. Maybe light rubber mallot taps around it? Thanks
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:25 PM   #17 (permalink)
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put the turbo in a solvent tank for a couple of days remove
then cover the bolts and turbine housing in some wd40 zep ect let sit for a couple more days then try again its probably full of carbon
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:16 AM   #18 (permalink)
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You could try heating it up with a torch. Put it in a table vice so you can use some force too. Ive had this problem a few times.
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:35 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by loroku View Post
put the turbo in a solvent tank for a couple of days remove
then cover the bolts and turbine housing in some wd40 zep ect let sit for a couple more days then try again its probably full of carbon

Learn your products before you speak! To they guy having problems spray some pb blaster or jb80 on it and let it soak for a few min. That should penetrate in it and loosen it up for you.
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:33 PM   #20 (permalink)
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that ^^

PB blaster and put it in a vice and give it some love taps with a brass punch all the way around the exh housing and it should break free
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:21 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by turtle_04 View Post
Learn your products before you speak! To they guy having problems spray some pb blaster or jb80 on it and let it soak for a few min. That should penetrate in it and loosen it up for you.

those were are two different steps
the solvent tank will help loosen/ remove the carbon
then the zep, pb blaster, wd40 name your penatrant (sp here)
will lossen the bolts and the housing
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:13 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Once again learn your product. Wd40 is not a penetrate. It is a WATER DISPLACER hence wd and a rust inhibitor.
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:29 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by turtle_04 View Post
Once again learn your product. Wd40 is not a penetrate. It is a WATER DISPLACER hence wd and a rust inhibitor.

maybe he is talking about the Specialist Product Line. They make a rust release penetrant spray.
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:50 PM   #24 (permalink)
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As long as the oil feed/return lines dont kink up id jus slap it on
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:16 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 509mobbin View Post
As long as the oil feed/return lines dont kink up id jus slap it on

please dont do this
the oil drain needs to be within 15degrees from vertical best is 90 from ground.
huh didnt know that about wd40 i never use it i mostly use pb blaster or (chevy heat riser valve penatrant if i can get it its like $20 per can )
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:37 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Yea they just came out with a penatrator not to long ago. Don't know how well it works or will I ever find out. Pb has never let me down so I always use it.
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:41 AM   #27 (permalink)
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If you can find it. Aerokroil is better than any of that stuff period.
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:52 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Wonderer876 View Post
If you can find it. Aerokroil is better than any of that stuff period.

I have used the liquid can before and it works good. I didn't know they made it in a aerosol.
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:16 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Yeap. I have 3-4 cans at work at work since it's standard issue. Mouse milk is another.
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Old 12-01-2012, 10:17 AM   #30 (permalink)
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i've had this happen to my 30r before...take all the bolts except for that one and use a hammer and tap on it all around...its from the carbon build up...trust me
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