nope not imo i got faster spool up then my stg3 stock and can make as much power as a 50 trim with ten times faster spool up.
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STG3R ,PTP 50LB WITH TOYS. MOPAR CAI.MOPAR STS. 3INC TBE.,MM INSERTS.FRONT STRUT BAR. SPRACO BFMIC.TUBONETICS HARD PIPE AND BOV. 60MM TB AND SPACER, PORTED INTAKE MANIFOLD ,STG 3 AGP WG AND A FEW MORE STUFF
SOON TO BE EXTERNAL WASTGATED .PORTED AND SOME OTHER STUFF 4 u
silverbullet you should stop posting now...your in a hole with no way out. All the stage 3 guys want a big wheel / ext gate and all the guys with big wheels love it...
nope not imo i got faster spool up then my stg3 stock and can make as much power as a 50 trim with ten times faster spool up.
Thats amazing if you did.. I cant see how that could be possible if your turbine wheel is the same size as the stock stage 3's. shutup Supermach Go take your community college knowledge somewhere else.
OK. I added a 47lb compressor wheel to my S3 with stock exhaust side. No tune, Stock S3 fuel at 21 psi. Spooled identicle to stock S3 & bumped my entire band up about 40whp & Tq. The people saying you loose the spool are wrong. With no adjustments to the car other than sticking the changed wheel chra back into the car, I think a 40 point bump & no change to my spool is a pretty good step. I think the guys on here knocking the wheel, have never driven a car before & after. Here are the numbers: before, non HOM 300/300 w/HOM 350/350 - after, non HOM 350/350 w/HOM 391/391.
Now, if I wanted to tune, I'm sure I could bump the power up big time. The key thing is the bigger wheel gave me HOM power on pump gas without messing with a fuel tune or running big boost. I started all this after 50k miles on my S3. It was time to experiment. True, I could have started all over with a different turbo setup, but then I would have had to run an noise ass external WG & BOV. I don't want to do that. Nice & quiet.
Oh yeah, I'm a shitty driver, but the cars best time before the wheel was a 12.5, after is 11.5. All kinds of variables, but it is what it is. I really like my setup.
Wife hates my car, but I love it.
Oh yeah, my car is setup for roadracing, not drag. At the same time, pretty sure the locals respect my ride on the street.
Excellent insight, thanks for sharing that. Love to see a dyno graph if you have it?
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John Ruckman
- Stage 3 W/ Toys
- AGP WGA, Race FMIC & 3" Intake
- Custom Magnaflow Exhaust & O2
- Eibach Prokit
- B-Woody Traction Bars
- ND Performance Traction Control System See My Ride Here
its true trust me no lie here theres graphs and everything all over this forum dont get me wrong a stock stg3 is good. but with some work wow then u see a monster: check out 90vnt dyno graph and thats just a bigwheel imagine with the external . sorry 90vnt for putting u out there and in no way am i trying to convence people to buy any type of product im just giving my own advise
if I was to put money on race between you and a stock stage 3, HOM vs HOM I would put money on the Unmodified Stage 3. You have a 50 lb wheel, why didnt you just sell your stage 3 and buy like a 50 trim that has a 49lb wheel? Would have been alot more efficient IMO.
Since you just proved your retarded, I'll take your bet. I explained my reasons for not not doing a 50 trim. Not sure why you keep pushing that. Oh & I did sell my S3....the spare turbofold I bought & ran while I was having the big wheel done.
Anyone looking for advice can listen to this dofus or you can listen to the guys with actual experience. Up to you. Feel free to PM me.
Oh yeah, stock S3 injectors
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11.9@117 so far for me
11.5@114 with a good driver
Pain is weakness leaving the body
Last edited by srt4geezer : 05-11-2008 at 09:57 PM.
Just to clarify, I'm not talking bad about anything, just trying to be real about not all big wheel stories end in happiness.
I was mearly pointing out that I can find 5 big turbo cars making the same power & running the same times as un-touched S3's for every one you can find that's getting the results we'd like to see such as 90vnt, srtgeezer, s2rad2drag, etc...
I love the idea of going big wheel (I was this ---><--- close to being one of 3testers for the 1st batch F&F did when I decided to back out). I believe that the more people are doing the big wheels, the more they are tested, & the more we learn what to do & not to do. That's a good thing.
The reason I suggested to just do the porting, ex gate & 3" bell mouth (no big wheel) is that should net you a very nice gain that will put you on the edge of maxing out the S3 fuel system & can still be ran without any fuel control or tinkering with the PCM etc...
For most people this doesn't compromise anything & will most likely result in a happy buyer. Going big wheel requires alot more know-how & may end in disappointment/ frustration for the buyer. I wasn't saying don't do it... just saying this might be a better 1st step for the majority of S3 users. If that's being a hater then so be it... at least I brought some technical info & 1st hand experience to the tread so people can draw their own conclusions.
Finally... Strong opinions create strong reactions. This thread has some good info coming from it if you can sift through the garbage.
Ya john your right. The reason why I dont agree with the bigger wheels is that I believe it compromises more than it compensates for. Im sure any Mechanical Engineer can tell you that by putting in a bigger wheel in any housing that is not designed for it will not be as efficient. Yeah you might get good gains, the inly reason why some of the guys on here have just as good spool time is because they have the right supporting mods.. Im talking about a stock srt-4 with a stage 3 versus a stock srt-4 with a modifed stage 3. There are alot of underlying facts here, such as what you have done to your motor, what gas your using, all kinds of stuff. Im not going to believe that a big wheel stage 3 will spool as fast as a stock wheeled stage 3 because its going against basic physics. The only reason why you get close to stage 3 spool is because of your motor not the Turbo to a certain extent. Hell I bet you could get better spool then stage 3 if you didnt have the bigger wheel and have all those motor mods.
Also do you not think the bigger wheel stage 3's put more stress on the manifold then what it was designed for? How about the Housing?
So you dont believe that, well how about the fact that modding a car limits the life of your motor, theres really no good advice to tell you about getting extra horsepower out of the stage 3 without porting the head and adding cams and gears. I think that would be the best advice.
The best way to get power and keep reliability of your turbo kit, would to port it.
If you want to put alot more stress on the turbo kit, put a bigger wheel in it
Here are my credentials,
I'm getting ready to Graduate from CU/ Boulder with an Architecture degree and getting ready to do my masters of Architecture. What do you have?
No popcorn needed. Internet opinion vs first hand facts.
My HOM power at reline was 391whp/350wtq
One thing I want to point out. I am not in anyway saying there arent higher power or faster S3's out there. I don't want to tune, so my power will stay where it's at.
I am also a tad beyond the fuel limits. The fuel pump rewire got me down to just under 12 & only get a tiny bit of knock on cali 91 octane. I added meth injection to keep things safer at WOT. I experimented & I can even run full boost on 87 octane with the coolingmist kit. Lol. On HOM, I don't use the meth at all. HOM runs right at 12 A/F.
Did you make this with a big wheel or a stock stage 3 wheel?
If it was a big wheel, I will put money on you losing. I know guys that make 360 hp and 450 lbs of torque of the unmodified stage 3. you lost alot of the torque stage 3 dishes out when you add supporting mods.. This is exactly what Im talking about. You cant make a bigger wheel work well if you dont have good motor mods.. Torque is what gets you done the track.
Usually a higher TQ number than HP number is indicitive of a turbo being overworked. Looks like by doing the big wheel you are actually reducing backpressure, egt's, & making the longevity of a turbo. That's strange as usually as that would've been the opposite effect expected by creating an even larger gap/ mis-match between compressor & turbine housing? As long as it can't be attributed to something else that may be a nice little marketing tool.
By increasing the HP & reducing the TQ from the standard S3 turbo results you'll be making a bigger HP number to talk about but *might* not result in much of a reduced ET at the drag strip (ie: big turbo's making 425whp & 425wtq going as fast as a basic S3 making 375whp & 450wtq.
Again, just 2 different ways of going fast. Neither one is better or worse than the other... just different. Thus we have the same end result as trying to size all turbos... it's a matter of your personal preference.
Ya john your right. The reason why I dont agree with the bigger wheels is that I believe it compromises more than it compensates for. Im sure any Mechanical Engineer can tell you that by putting in a bigger wheel in any housing that is not designed for it will not be as efficient. Yeah you might get good gains, the inly reason why some of the guys on here have just as good spool time is because they have the right supporting mods.. Im talking about a stock srt-4 with a stage 3 versus a stock srt-4 with a modifed stage 3. There are alot of underlying facts here, such as what you have done to your motor, what gas your using, all kinds of stuff. Im not going to believe that a big wheel stage 3 will spool as fast as a stock wheeled stage 3 because its going against basic physics. The only reason why you get close to stage 3 spool is because of your motor not the Turbo to a certain extent. Hell I bet you could get better spool then stage 3 if you didnt have the bigger wheel and have all those motor mods.
Also do you not think the bigger wheel stage 3's put more stress on the manifold then what it was designed for? How about the Housing?
So you dont believe that, well how about the fact that modding a car limits the life of your motor, theres really no good advice to tell you about getting extra horsepower out of the stage 3 without porting the head and adding cams and gears. I think that would be the best advice.
The best way to get power and keep reliability of your turbo kit, would to port it.
If you want to put alot more stress on the turbo kit, put a bigger wheel in it
Here are my credentials,
I'm getting ready to Graduate from CU/ Boulder with an Architecture degree and getting ready to do my masters of Architecture. What do you have?
Go and look for a lawyer, how many would you would trust regardless of the toilet paper hanging on the wall behind them?
No offense but paper saying this person has passed this test does not indicate the proper reasoning skills or mental capacity or skill set in doing things well all the time. More often then not it means something only to the person holding it or the dummy looking at the fancy writing.
At a shop I was at several years ago we had 40 mechanics come through the door in the space of one year. Some of them came in when new on the first day, positioned a tool box and then hung the toilet paper certifications up from GM, Ford, Chry, Benz, BMW, Volks etc......... Almost all were ok (notice not note great or good) with a fast ball (car make they knew), throw them a curve ball and they fell down on there face.
It got to the point that a couple of us started drawing up are own certs on paper and hanging them up and laughing.
I'm sure there are lots of pro tuners, very very good builders, and excellent mechanics on here that have not had a higher education then 12.
Your paper cert or the fact that you went further in your education then others means you chose a path towards achieving a goal that was not similar to someone else thats all.
I have a higher education but that means dick when it comes down to hitting a pitched ball in a live game.
Well true, a paper certification can only bring you so far. its either your good at what you do or your not. I was trying to give my argument a little Credibility. Honestly I respect people with higher education, that is because they are more intelligent, some people decide not to go and are smart but most people decide that college is not right for them because they aren't smart enough. The guy called me retarded so I thought I might call him out on his accusations. Most of the people on here "I believe" are not very intelligent and/or young. I was just trying to point out that its ignorant to modify a turbo due to the fact that it screws the whole design of the turbo that in this case, mopar, spent many hours working on. Thats why my recommendation still stands that if you want more power, porting is cheaper, easier, more reliable and a good way to get gains. Big wheel requires alot more work on the motor and such and is IMO stupid because the whole reason why you buy stage 3 is because its a reliable source of extra power that comes with the assurance of not hurting your motor or the need to modify it.
I apologize to anyone that thinks I'm going against them, Im just trying to offer a cheaper and IMO a more reliable source for more power out of your SRT-4.
Well true, a paper certification can only bring you so far. its either your good at what you do or your not. I was trying to give my argument a little Credibility. Honestly I respect people with higher education, that is because they are more intelligent, some people decide not to go and are smart but most people decide that college is not right for them because they aren't smart enough. The guy called me retarded so I thought I might call him out on his accusations. Most of the people on here "I believe" are not very intelligent and/or young. I was just trying to point out that its ignorant to modify a turbo due to the fact that it screws the whole design of the turbo that in this case, mopar, spent many hours working on. Thats why my recommendation still stands that if you want more power, porting is cheaper, easier, more reliable and a good way to get gains. Big wheel requires alot more work on the motor and such and is IMO stupid because the whole reason why you buy stage 3 is because its a reliable source of extra power that comes with the assurance of not hurting your motor or the need to modify it.
I apologize to anyone that thinks I'm going against them, Im just trying to offer a cheaper and IMO a more reliable source for more power out of your SRT-4.
Bolded in RED implies that you are really full of yourself regardless of the way you are attempting to word things.
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