rod bearing or something else? - SRT Forums

Kael · 01-21-2013, 10:52 PM

ok so i got a deal on another srt and i am trying to fix it. it has a knocking sound coming from it and it sounds like its in the head at time and others it sounds like its coming from the block. before i tear into it i was just wondering if i could get some opinions on what it could be. At idle its fine and up to about 1800 rpms, past 1800 and up is when it starts knocking. any help would be appreciated.

5D28BBCA-9569-4FAD-9BB0-4B584EFC03B9-5779-000006D639F7366C.mp4 video by irishkael | Photobucket

fivetoez · 01-22-2013, 07:48 AM

Sounds like a bad rod bearing.

Creamer03 · 01-22-2013, 08:12 AM

Heard that before.... Lol id pull the pan or drain the oil and see what you catch with a magnet.

Kael · 01-22-2013, 11:39 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Creamer03

Heard that before.... Lol id pull the pan or drain the oil and see what you catch with a magnet.

What it end up being? Was it a rod bearing

ziggo0 · 01-22-2013, 11:43 AM

That's a rod bearing. Time to tear it down.

Creamer03 · 01-22-2013, 06:21 PM

It ended up being #3 rod bearing...

fixit · 01-22-2013, 06:48 PM

yup rod, final answer

Quote: Originally Posted by fivetoez

Sounds like a bad rod bearing.

Kael · 01-23-2013, 05:59 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by fixit

yup rod, final answer

So I need need to pull the motor or can I change them from underneath

SCH-I100 using AutoGuide.C

big4mike9 · 01-23-2013, 06:14 AM

You can change them with the motor in the car. But it's only a temp fix. The crank should be taken out and the journals cleaned up/polished. If not it will only happen again. I have gone through this exact same problem.

Sent from

bzzt · 01-23-2013, 06:19 AM

You can do it from underneath.
Take the plugs out, hot side pipe off, pan off, and balancer out.
Do them 2 at a time:
Turn the crank clockwise to where 2 of the pistons are at the bottom.
Remove the rod cap and push the piston up a little to get to the upper bearing. They pop right out.

Kael · 01-23-2013, 09:42 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by big4mike9

You can change them with the motor in the car. But it's only a temp fix. The crank should be taken out and the journals cleaned up/polished. If not it will only happen again. I have gone through this exact same problem.

Sent from

Thats all I need it for is temporary. Im needing it long enough build my other motor

SCH-I100 using AutoGuide.C

ziggo0 · 01-23-2013, 10:04 AM

Depending on the damage already done changing won't matter. It might last one mile, it might last 100 miles. The only real way to fix this is by pulling the motor and doing a complete rebuild pretty much. You've got metal shavings all over the place in your oiling system now, other bearings were probably harmed as well, that rod is screwed and out of round, the cranks rod journal is scratched up/out of round now and will require replacement (or turning if we can turn out cranks?), after trying to do what you are going to do on my DSM TWICE many moons ago it always resulted in failure very quickly, much disappointment and tons of money wasted.

big4mike9 · 01-23-2013, 03:49 PM

I completely understand OP, I'm just saying prepare for a decent sized bill down the road. Good luck!

Sent from

Creamer03 · 01-23-2013, 03:51 PM

I would and will never only change bearings only on a rod or main. That's just asking for another problem in the future.

Kael · 01-23-2013, 03:54 PM

Quote:

I would and will never only change bearings only on a rod or main. That's just asking for another problem in the future.

Im not just changing just 1 im changing all 4 plus the mains.

SCH-I100 using AutoGuide.C

01-21-2013, 10:52 PM	#1 (permalink)
Kael SRTforums Member Join Date: May 2009 Member Number: 73094 Location: arkansas Posts: 394	rod bearing or something else? ok so i got a deal on another srt and i am trying to fix it. it has a knocking sound coming from it and it sounds like its in the head at time and others it sounds like its coming from the block. before i tear into it i was just wondering if i could get some opinions on what it could be. At idle its fine and up to about 1800 rpms, past 1800 and up is when it starts knocking. any help would be appreciated. 5D28BBCA-9569-4FAD-9BB0-4B584EFC03B9-5779-000006D639F7366C.mp4 video by irishkael \| Photobucket __________________ 04 SRT4, mpx bfmic, Crower Stage 2 cams, valve springs and retainers, aem short ram, homemade catch can, MPX solid motor and tranny mounts, MOPAR Stage 1 PCM, Perrin Fuel Rail, Vibrant cold side pipe with HKS BOV, Mishimoto Radiator, AGP WGA, Apexi Turbo Timer, booger shift bushings, AEM Uego WideBand,

01-22-2013, 07:48 AM	#2 (permalink)
fivetoez SRTforums Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Member Number: 9691 Location: Central Ct. Posts: 3,965	Sounds like a bad rod bearing. __________________ _____5TOEZ______ 1967 Cadillac Calais 429 2dr., 1967 Chevelle 4sp. Conv. ,1978 Dodge 318 "Factory Custom"van., 2004 Dodge Srt-4,Stage1.5(E-Blue) & a couple motorcycles.

01-22-2013, 08:12 AM	#3 (permalink)
Creamer03 SRTforums Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Member Number: 62203 Location: Sulphur, TX Posts: 787	Re: rod bearing or something else? Heard that before.... Lol id pull the pan or drain the oil and see what you catch with a magnet. __________________ Going for a Texas Top 10 1/4 mile spot... Baby snail and E85...

01-22-2013, 11:39 AM	#4 (permalink)
Kael SRTforums Member Join Date: May 2009 Member Number: 73094 Location: arkansas Posts: 394	Re: rod bearing or something else? Quote: Originally Posted by Creamer03 Heard that before.... Lol id pull the pan or drain the oil and see what you catch with a magnet. What it end up being? Was it a rod bearing __________________ 04 SRT4, mpx bfmic, Crower Stage 2 cams, valve springs and retainers, aem short ram, homemade catch can, MPX solid motor and tranny mounts, MOPAR Stage 1 PCM, Perrin Fuel Rail, Vibrant cold side pipe with HKS BOV, Mishimoto Radiator, AGP WGA, Apexi Turbo Timer, booger shift bushings, AEM Uego WideBand,

01-22-2013, 11:43 AM	#5 (permalink)
ziggo0 SRTforums Member Join Date: May 2008 Member Number: 63759 Location: La Porte Posts: 1,870	That's a rod bearing. Time to tear it down. __________________ Stone White 05 - Built Motor, Built Head, e85 & 75lbs/min - coming soon

01-22-2013, 06:21 PM	#6 (permalink)
Creamer03 SRTforums Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Member Number: 62203 Location: Sulphur, TX Posts: 787	Re: rod bearing or something else? It ended up being #3 rod bearing... __________________ Going for a Texas Top 10 1/4 mile spot... Baby snail and E85...

01-22-2013, 06:48 PM	#7 (permalink)
fixit SRTforums Member Join Date: May 2004 Member Number: 11361 Location: nj Posts: 1,489	yup rod, final answer Quote: Originally Posted by fivetoez Sounds like a bad rod bearing. __________________ Build Thread:http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f451...w-123k-612933/ PCM=S0, DSP rescaled, 3bar map/tip injectors= Siemens 80# (ebay $200) built motor, 8.8:1 weisco, eagle-h, strap & windage S3R DCR manifold ($500) w/evo8 turbo (ebay $150) - 20G/47# ebay ($200) Evo 8 WGA 24x12x4 w/cast ends - CXRacing (ebay $200) DataLogger DataQA, $25 Wideband UEGO (ebay $150) vette rims 275/40/17 needswing v5 SouthBend S3

01-23-2013, 05:59 AM	#8 (permalink)
Kael SRTforums Member Join Date: May 2009 Member Number: 73094 Location: arkansas Posts: 394	Re: rod bearing or something else? Quote: Originally Posted by fixit yup rod, final answer So I need need to pull the motor or can I change them from underneath SCH-I100 using AutoGuide.C __________________ 04 SRT4, mpx bfmic, Crower Stage 2 cams, valve springs and retainers, aem short ram, homemade catch can, MPX solid motor and tranny mounts, MOPAR Stage 1 PCM, Perrin Fuel Rail, Vibrant cold side pipe with HKS BOV, Mishimoto Radiator, AGP WGA, Apexi Turbo Timer, booger shift bushings, AEM Uego WideBand,

01-23-2013, 06:14 AM	#9 (permalink)
big4mike9 SRTforums Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Member Number: 84969 Location: Miami Posts: 441	rod bearing or something else? You can change them with the motor in the car. But it's only a temp fix. The crank should be taken out and the journals cleaned up/polished. If not it will only happen again. I have gone through this exact same problem. Sent from __________________ SRI, 3" Exhaust Depo Side Exit + 3" MPx O2, exhaust cutout, DSP, Mopar Plate, AGP Return Line, Walbro 255, Fuel Pump Rewire, Innovate Motorsports MTX-L, N2MB Wot box/2-step and Boost Box, Bwoody check valve, $20 catch can x2, STS, Rage-Tek Shifter Bushings, Pwerks 3rd Gear Extender, 3 Bar Sensors, Dusters Injectors and e85

01-23-2013, 06:19 AM	#10 (permalink)
bzzt SRTforums Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Member Number: 83768 Location: Carrollton(DFW) Posts: 2,019	You can do it from underneath. Take the plugs out, hot side pipe off, pan off, and balancer out. Do them 2 at a time: Turn the crank clockwise to where 2 of the pistons are at the bottom. Remove the rod cap and push the piston up a little to get to the upper bearing. They pop right out. __________________ 2004 Silver SRT-4 Stage I, AEM CAI, UDP, cut balance chain, muffler

01-23-2013, 09:42 AM	#11 (permalink)
Kael SRTforums Member Join Date: May 2009 Member Number: 73094 Location: arkansas Posts: 394	Re: rod bearing or something else? Quote: Originally Posted by big4mike9 You can change them with the motor in the car. But it's only a temp fix. The crank should be taken out and the journals cleaned up/polished. If not it will only happen again. I have gone through this exact same problem. Sent from Thats all I need it for is temporary. Im needing it long enough build my other motor SCH-I100 using AutoGuide.C __________________ 04 SRT4, mpx bfmic, Crower Stage 2 cams, valve springs and retainers, aem short ram, homemade catch can, MPX solid motor and tranny mounts, MOPAR Stage 1 PCM, Perrin Fuel Rail, Vibrant cold side pipe with HKS BOV, Mishimoto Radiator, AGP WGA, Apexi Turbo Timer, booger shift bushings, AEM Uego WideBand,

01-23-2013, 10:04 AM	#12 (permalink)
ziggo0 SRTforums Member Join Date: May 2008 Member Number: 63759 Location: La Porte Posts: 1,870	Depending on the damage already done changing won't matter. It might last one mile, it might last 100 miles. The only real way to fix this is by pulling the motor and doing a complete rebuild pretty much. You've got metal shavings all over the place in your oiling system now, other bearings were probably harmed as well, that rod is screwed and out of round, the cranks rod journal is scratched up/out of round now and will require replacement (or turning if we can turn out cranks?), after trying to do what you are going to do on my DSM TWICE many moons ago it always resulted in failure very quickly, much disappointment and tons of money wasted. __________________ Stone White 05 - Built Motor, Built Head, e85 & 75lbs/min - coming soon

01-23-2013, 03:49 PM	#13 (permalink)
big4mike9 SRTforums Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Member Number: 84969 Location: Miami Posts: 441	rod bearing or something else? I completely understand OP, I'm just saying prepare for a decent sized bill down the road. Good luck! Sent from __________________ SRI, 3" Exhaust Depo Side Exit + 3" MPx O2, exhaust cutout, DSP, Mopar Plate, AGP Return Line, Walbro 255, Fuel Pump Rewire, Innovate Motorsports MTX-L, N2MB Wot box/2-step and Boost Box, Bwoody check valve, $20 catch can x2, STS, Rage-Tek Shifter Bushings, Pwerks 3rd Gear Extender, 3 Bar Sensors, Dusters Injectors and e85

01-23-2013, 03:51 PM	#14 (permalink)
Creamer03 SRTforums Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Member Number: 62203 Location: Sulphur, TX Posts: 787	Re: rod bearing or something else? I would and will never only change bearings only on a rod or main. That's just asking for another problem in the future. __________________ Going for a Texas Top 10 1/4 mile spot... Baby snail and E85...

01-23-2013, 03:54 PM	#15 (permalink)
Kael SRTforums Member Join Date: May 2009 Member Number: 73094 Location: arkansas Posts: 394	Re: rod bearing or something else? Quote: I would and will never only change bearings only on a rod or main. That's just asking for another problem in the future. Im not just changing just 1 im changing all 4 plus the mains. SCH-I100 using AutoGuide.C __________________ 04 SRT4, mpx bfmic, Crower Stage 2 cams, valve springs and retainers, aem short ram, homemade catch can, MPX solid motor and tranny mounts, MOPAR Stage 1 PCM, Perrin Fuel Rail, Vibrant cold side pipe with HKS BOV, Mishimoto Radiator, AGP WGA, Apexi Turbo Timer, booger shift bushings, AEM Uego WideBand,

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