I wanted to talk about the different methods of brake in on new or rebuilt motors. Ive been lookin at ALOT of different methods on INTERNET and books/manuals. Obviously alot of manuals will say "easy brake in" do not rev over 2-3k no hard loads ect ect. Some say doing it this way will NOT cause the rings to SEAT and will cause the walls to glaze and NEVER brake in which than causes excessive blow by, and loss of compression and power.
Other method is the "medium load" Small burst of 50% -75% throttle medium loads than cooling periods.
Than you have your "run it hard" method. As in hard load 80-90% throttle before the first 20 miles. In turn seats rings better, less blow by more power. Yet some say doing it this way causes too much heat and can cause bearing failure.
Im guessing BOOST applications are a little different as in alot will say you should not allow the rings to see boost for at least 800-1000 miles. Yet they want you to have heavy loads with no boost to try to "seat" the rings.
Just wanted to get everyones thoughts. Did not see a thread all about engine brake in
I still not sure what method i wanna use. Im thinkin NOT babying it and NOT running the piss out of it. Guessing a med brake in, short burst 50-75% throttle and decelerations. Keeping the rpm ranging up and down, No highway driving. Just getting it one some good back roads and varying the rpms.
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I was always told to take the car out on a decent sized hill, and in 3rd gear run it pretty high in the r's coming down the hill and let the car slow itself down to almost an idle, repeat this a few times to seat the rings... Worked for me so far... Far as break in periods, I've seen it done many ways, a buddy of mine put a 100 miles on his car, changed the oil and took it to the track.... Our racecar got ran for about an hour, changed the oil and took it to the track, my 2.6 motor, I ran it fairly easy for about 200 miles did the whole downhill engine braking (3rd gear), changed the oil, and ran it...
for any new motor or rebuilt I have always ran it 2-3k rpms for 100 miles then I take the oil /filter out cut the filter open check it, if it looks good I do the run it hard method at 200 miles I change the oil and cut the oil filter open again as I do every oil change but the first 2 times 100 mi and then 200 mi is a must to me
EDIT- Op it's up to you really if you doubt either take the middle road lol
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Originally Posted by dansrt4
For a shop thats so behind maybe you should catch up on orders before you catch up to me.
I wanted to talk about the different methods of brake in on new or rebuilt motors. Ive been lookin at ALOT of different methods on INTERNET and books/manuals. Obviously alot of manuals will say "easy brake in" do not rev over 2-3k no hard loads ect ect. Some say doing it this way will NOT cause the rings to SEAT and will cause the walls to glaze and NEVER brake in which than causes excessive blow by, and loss of compression and power.
Other method is the "medium load" Small burst of 50% -75% throttle medium loads than cooling periods.
Than you have your "run it hard" method. As in hard load 80-90% throttle before the first 20 miles. In turn seats rings better, less blow by more power. Yet some say doing it this way causes too much heat and can cause bearing failure.
Im guessing BOOST applications are a little different as in alot will say you should not allow the rings to see boost for at least 800-1000 miles. Yet they want you to have heavy loads with no boost to try to "seat" the rings.
Just wanted to get everyones thoughts. Did not see a thread all about engine brake in
I still not sure what method i wanna use. Im thinkin NOT babying it and NOT running the piss out of it. Guessing a med brake in, short burst 50-75% throttle and decelerations. Keeping the rpm ranging up and down, No highway driving. Just getting it one some good back roads and varying the rpms.
I am a FIRM believer in the method that is linked in your post! That's the method I use!
my question about the above method is when it said "warm up engine completely". is this step done sitting in the driveway idling till it's warm? or on the road driving easy until it's completely warmed up, then doing the pulls?
also, as stated before i'm assuming any boost during this breakin period is probably bad. right?
I would drive it around to warm it up, and avoid high RPMs, but give it a little bit of throttle to create cylinder pressures, instead of keeping it in vacuum the whole time it's warming up.
And boost is not a bad thing during the break in. Excessive boost would be bad. But a little bit is a good thing. Just run a weak spring in the wastegate (something along the lines of 7 - 10 psi), and use that for break-in.
With the low compression that most people run in a boosted engine, you're not going to have extraordinarily high pressures in the cylinder, anyway.
However, even in a higher compression build, I'd still prefer to use a little bit of boost for break-in vs. none!
So than first 20-30 miles do the short burst of hard acceleration, than after all that mess, change oil, Than start bringing on some boost after the first oil change? I actaully emailed the writter of that link and asking him about boosted aplications. I kinda like the idea, he makes alot of sence. I think the "easy" brake in method is And hes right, If there IS something wrong bearing wise, a EASY brake in will not do anything, If something is wrong not madder how you treat the engine it will burn up no madder the rpms.
if you break the motor in like a bitch, the car will be a bitch. (or not blow up)
if you break the motor in hard, the car will run hard.. (mines still running)
haha seriously cheif, before you even START the car, unplug the coil pack and crank the motor over for 30 seconds, 4 times. (prime the oil) run the car at idle sitting in your garage/motorhome/house/ whatever for at least 45 minutes, while checking for leaks/ anything out of the norm. If you put a new turbo on, DO NOT boost for the first 100 miles. DO NOT go over 3000 RPM, you need to let the rings seat. Take the bitch back home after 250 miles, change the oil. DO NOT USE GOOD OIL! regular 10w30 will do. Put the boost to a MAX of 10psi. don't beat on it too bad, i know how you love doing that haha. After driving NORMAL for another 500 miles, go home and change the oil.. boost allll you want, take it home at 1000 miles, and put some synthetic 10w30 oil in it and have fun
just so you know, it's ALWAYS good to keep checking for leaks, anything minor OR major.
I did a lot of engine breaking in the beginning. Then I want to say after like...50-100 miles or so I beat the living shit out of it and never looked back.
never treated my car softly at all and its running like a champ. After rebuild I gave her about 20 miles from the shop to the home at a norml stop and go driving pace in Northern Virginia. After that let it cool down and the next day gave it hell at 18psi on the way to see a movie. Never looked back. After a recent PCV failure I checked compression to be safe and at 5k on the engine compression is at 160ish across the board +-3.
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if you break the motor in like a bitch, the car will be a bitch. (or not blow up)
if you break the motor in hard, the car will run hard.. (mines still running)
haha seriously cheif, before you even START the car, unplug the coil pack and crank the motor over for 30 seconds, 4 times. (prime the oil) run the car at idle sitting in your garage/motorhome/house/ whatever for at least 45 minutes, while checking for leaks/ anything out of the norm. If you put a new turbo on, DO NOT boost for the first 100 miles. DO NOT go over 3000 RPM, you need to let the rings seat. Take the bitch back home after 250 miles, change the oil. DO NOT USE GOOD OIL! regular 10w30 will do. Put the boost to a MAX of 10psi. don't beat on it too bad, i know how you love doing that haha. After driving NORMAL for another 500 miles, go home and change the oil.. boost allll you want, take it home at 1000 miles, and put some synthetic 10w30 oil in it and have fun
just so you know, it's ALWAYS good to keep checking for leaks, anything minor OR major.
Not going over 3k miles is not the "hard" brake in though? You just said brake it in hard the car will RUN hard? So no boost for 100 miles. Got that, did that on the turbo rebuild. Think thats a standard for everyone i hope
Basically i wantedto to moto mans theroy/chuck obviously on start up let it idle come to operation temp check for leaks ect, and let it cool again, But i heard during its first start/idle to VARRY the rpms up and down, just letting it sit there at idle will start to GLAZE the walls up, One thing you dont wanna do. First 20 miles are suppose to be the magic point for seating the rings. Motor man/chuck suggest short burst of acceleration and DEACCELERATION for seatings rings. Heard hills are GREAT for first brake in, puts nice load on the motor/ pressure ont he rings/ down the hill deacceleration allows rings to seat as well. Motoman is not the ONLY person that i heard doing this kinda method. Reason i wanted to see how many agreed with the brake in hard method and who did not. Sounds like we have a few agree already
i talked to rick that had his motor built by aaron and erabbit as well,and they both said they did 80miles of normal driving before getting on it(did oil change after),than they took it to the track and pushed it hard after the 80 miles.
my buddy with a built sti motor did the same thing.drove around 100miles,did a oil change and started to beat on it(32psi),motor still holding up fine.
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Rebuild/new engine brake in period / methods
And hes right, If there IS something wrong bearing wise, a EASY brake in will not do anything, If something is wrong not madder how you treat the engine it will burn up no madder the rpms.
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