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Old 08-03-2006, 11:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
Tex
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Default Official Turbo Size Thread

Turbochargers are a pivotal performance component to the srt4. In order to accurately compare which turbo is best is a very complicated and bias concept. I have been asked countless times what turbo is the best for our car, which turbo is bigger, etc. I have decided to give a fair layout, on which turbo is which, in a fair and unbiased means of measurement.

Before jumping to a “what’s the biggest snail I can run” question, lets get a few pieces of information out of the way. It is important to understand the fundamentals of turbochargers and how they work. Now I'm not going to explain the in’s and out’s of how turbochargers work, but will instead just give you the basics on what’s important here. A compressor wheel is a finned wheel that compresses the air going into the motor. There are 2 major measurements on this wheel. You have the inducer and the exducer. The inducer is the smaller diameter measurement, measured from the top of the wheel. This is where the air comes into the compressor housing. The exducer measurement is the larger one, or at the base of the vanes. See below for clarification.




The next question I get asked is, “What is turbo trim?” the simple answer is that it’s just a mathematical equation based on the comparison of inducer and exducer sizes. The exact measurement is (inducer/exducer)^2x100

The larger inducer size, the more air can get into and therefore out of the turbo. This is awesome because a larger inducer means more power. It allows more air to be ingested. It’s like drinking through a straw (your intake being the straw). A large McDonalds straw brings in air a lot faster than a skinny coffee straw. So why don’t you just cram the largest inducer wheel possible into the housing? Good question. There is a down side of cramming more air into, and therefore out of, the turbo. Surge becomes an issue with too much air. Surge is when the turbo flows more air than your motor can take at any specific rpm. This is a very bad thing because it causes air to back up into the housing and can actually damage the turbo.

So what is the benefit of running a larger exducer dimension? Exducer sizing has more to do with actual spool up time over power ability. The larger the exducer, the quicker the spool. This works because the circumference becomes longer when the radius increases. This “longer travel” increases velocity of the surface edge of the wheel. This increased velocity helps to fling the air out of the turbo at a greater rate of speed.

Turbine housing is important as well, but not in the same way. All the air that goes into the motor has to come out. All that air is pushed through the exhaust and through the turbine housing. A smaller wheel is going to allow quicker spool, but will sacrifice top end because of the limited amount of flow. A larger wheel won’t spool as quickly but will allow more power because there is less restriction. A larger wheel will also help keep egt’s down because there will be less exhaust backpressure in the manifold. The trick is to find the smallest wheel that will flow the power you need it to flow.

Now onto the stuff you all want to know. Turbo sizing. There are 2 main styles of measurement. First up, is the Mitsubishi way. A typical Mitsubishi turbo nomenclature is TD05HR-16G-9.8cm^2 (early EVO VIII turbo). Lets break this down so its not gibberish. TD05 is the turbine housing; it’s a TD05 (see below for sizing). The “H” is for the type of blade (5 equal blades, 5 staggered blades, 6 standard blade, 6 staggered blade, etc.). The “R” stands for reverse rotation (clockwise for standard, counter-clockwise for reverse). The next set of numbers, “16g” in this case, is the compressor wheel housing (see below for actual measurements). The last set of numbers (9.8cm^2} is the measurement of the A/R of the housing.

Some quick measurements
TD04 ~ 1.81”
TD05 ~ 2.22”

The next set of numbers is the Garrett GT names. Take, for example, a GT2860RS. “GT” refers to the family. “28” is the turbine exducer measurement, or similar to the above Mitsubishi measurement, just a means of informing you of the turbine size. The next set of numbers is the compressor exducer measurement. 60 is the actual measurement, measured in mm (And remember mm to in conversion is mm/25.4=in
). The “R” means its ball bearing, and the “S” is a means of differentiating a higher flowing turbo assembly (note larger inducer measurement). A couple side notes. If the compressor hosing is larger than 100mm the 1 is omitted and simply labeled as the last 2 digits.

Some quick facts
GT28 ~ 2.10”
GT28 ~ 2.20”
GT30 ~ 2.36”
GT35 ~ 2.68”
GT40 ~ 3.03”
GT42 ~ 3.23”

Just for the record, Turbonetics likes to confuse the matters a bit. they alter their numbering a hair. they do resemble the Mitsubishi naming, but slightly larger wheels.

T3 ~ 2.32"
T4 ~ 2.92"

ITS TURBO TIME!!!!!!

MOPAR
Stock TD04-16G – 300hp seems to be the hp goal for this baby
Inducer: 1.71”
Exducer: 2.21”

Mopar Stage3 TD05-15G – 350 is easy, 400hp is the goal for this one. Crappy manifold design seems to be the limiting factor here
Inducer: 1.94
Exducer: 2.56

MITSUBISHI
Mitsubishi 16G6 (EVO. VIII wheel) – same as the stage3, 400hp seems to be the goal
Inducer: 1.89”
Exducer: 2.68”

Mitsubishi 20G-R – 400hp on pump is doable
Inducer: 2.04”
Exducer: 2.67”

AGP
AGP 50 trim – 450 is reasonable and mid 11’s are commonplace
Inducer: 2.12”
Exducer: 2.95”

AGP 57 trim – see above, not recommended because of surging issues
Inducer: 2.23”
Exducer: 2.95”

AGP 60 trim – 475 is achieveable, really shines in mid to high range
Inducer: 2.29”
Exducer: 2.95"

GT3147 – 400 hp is a healthy number on this snail
Inducer: 2.03”
Exducer: 2.67”

GT3071 – 425hp and a decent spool up time
Inducer: 1.77”
Exducer: 2.80”

GT3076 – 425hp on pump, nearly 100hp more on 110 octane
Inducer: 2.23”
Exducer: 2.99”

GT3082 – 600hp is doable
Inducer: 2.42”
Exducer: 3.23”

GT3582 “GT35R” – 40psi??? need we say more?
Inducer: 2.42”
Exducer: 3.23

T3/T67 - the only saving grace on this turbo is the baby turbine wheel
Inducer: 3.02"
Exducer: 4.03"

HAHN
Hahn Super16g – 350hp and near stock spool time!!!
Inducer: 1.83”
Exducer: 2.36”

Hahn Super 20g – look forward to near 400hp with this beauty
Inducer: 2.07”
Exducer: 2.67”
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Last edited by Tex : 01-20-2008 at 02:39 PM.
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Old 08-03-2006, 11:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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sticky please, and remember, numbers are approximate, there might be slight variations in wheel sizing.
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Old 08-03-2006, 11:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Kickass write up Tex!! Thank you. Why is the stage 3 turbo so small? Is their a way to put a larger wheel in the stage 3 turbo to make more power?
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Old 08-03-2006, 11:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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small turbo = quick spool. there are several options for upgradding the stage3 turbo. you can throw in the mitsu 20g wheel (why i gave it as an option). there is another turbo available, but dont have all the specs as of yet. its called the white rabbit and is a slightly different wheel than the 20g. but since i dont have the specs, its not up yet. i also hope to get some info from PTP as well with his SS turbo. i will be coming back and editing this from time to time
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Old 08-04-2006, 12:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The Mits 20g-R wheel will just pop right in? No grinding/porting to make it fit? What kind of numbers would i be looking at? stock stage 3 turbo 350hp and with a 20g-R wheel it would jump 50hp on pump?
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Old 08-04-2006, 12:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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nothing will bolt right in. you will have to modify your compressor housing to fit. a machine shop competant with turbochargers are necessary to open it up and balance your CHRA or center cartridge
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Old 08-04-2006, 12:10 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Tex
nothing will bolt right in. you will have to modify your compressor housing to fit. a machine shop competant with turbochargers are necessary to open it up and balance your CHRA or center cartridge

Ahh. Is this the route you went? Which wheel did you choose?
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Old 08-04-2006, 12:11 AM   #8 (permalink)
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i ended up going 20g
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Old 08-04-2006, 01:16 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Spooltyme
Quote: Originally Posted by Tex
nothing will bolt right in. you will have to modify your compressor housing to fit. a machine shop competant with turbochargers are necessary to open it up and balance your CHRA or center cartridge

Ahh. Is this the route you went? Which wheel did you choose?

with any compressor wheel swap, there will be necessary machining of the compressor housing to match, and lso a proper install & balancing of the compressor wheel, on to the core cartridge

it is the turbine side which matches between the S3 TD05 and Evo 8 + 9 TD05...
...and yes, they will bolt up to the S3 manifold

read this previous posting re: S3 turbo sizing

stage3 turbo size

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Old 08-04-2006, 01:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Tex
i ended up going 20g

so you ended up following, and getting a 20G also, eh!?

did you just get the comp wheel and install it to the S3 cartridge?

i remember early on when you first PMd me, asking me about the compatibility of these parts, and you have plans to run the Ev08 16G6 on your S3 manifold...did you install yet?

...if so, then you found as i did, that the bolting on of the TD05 turbine side is the only plug-and-play to this swap

Jer

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Old 08-04-2006, 01:19 AM   #11 (permalink)
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i got the snail, but realised quite quickly that its actually smaller than teh stage3 compressor wheel, at least where it counts!!!!!!!

thats why i went with the TCC 20g

i looked at the evo CHRA, and realised that it would be LOTS of work to get up and running. so i just took it to my buddies shop and made it work
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Old 08-04-2006, 01:37 AM   #12 (permalink)
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like i previously posted once, i doubt that there would be any noticable gain difference between the 16G6 and the S3 15GK...

Quote: Originally Posted by Tex
i got the snail, but realised quite quickly that its actually smaller than teh stage3 compressor wheel, at least where it counts!!!!!!!

thats why i went with the TCC 20g

i looked at the evo CHRA, and realised that it would be LOTS of work to get up and running. so i just took it to my buddies shop and made it work

that's odd...we simply machined the stock dodge coolant and oil lines (the return simply bolts right on)...so they match the Evo CHRA...

...last thing was the WGA, which i simply welded on 2 aluminum bolts tot he compressor housing, so the WGA sits in the stock S3 location...

...a little bit of fab work, but otherwise was that easy!

...the outlet for the compressor, i ended up making a bolt on pipe, wih a stock mopar BOV plate, so it could be used...but otherwise a stock Evo outlet pipe (fastens on with 2 bolts) works well, and stock charge pipe fits to that

the inlet of the Evo housing is larger than stock, so a larger style CAI or ARi is needed...in my cse the i am using the Evo-9 comp housing (20G-Evo9-TD05)...i ended up using a Perrin intake

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Old 08-04-2006, 06:05 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Freakin AWSOME!

STICKY! STICKY! STICKY!
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Old 08-04-2006, 11:41 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by jersturbo
like i previously posted once, i doubt that there would be any noticable gain difference between the 16G6 and the S3 15GK...

Quote: Originally Posted by Tex
i got the snail, but realised quite quickly that its actually smaller than teh stage3 compressor wheel, at least where it counts!!!!!!!

thats why i went with the TCC 20g

i looked at the evo CHRA, and realised that it would be LOTS of work to get up and running. so i just took it to my buddies shop and made it work

that's odd...we simply machined the stock dodge coolant and oil lines (the return simply bolts right on)...so they match the Evo CHRA...

...last thing was the WGA, which i simply welded on 2 aluminum bolts tot he compressor housing, so the WGA sits in the stock S3 location...

...a little bit of fab work, but otherwise was that easy!

...the outlet for the compressor, i ended up making a bolt on pipe, wih a stock mopar BOV plate, so it could be used...but otherwise a stock Evo outlet pipe (fastens on with 2 bolts) works well, and stock charge pipe fits to that

the inlet of the Evo housing is larger than stock, so a larger style CAI or ARi is needed...in my cse the i am using the Evo-9 comp housing (20G-Evo9-TD05)...i ended up using a Perrin intake

.


yeah, thats more work than machining out my housing!!!
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Old 08-04-2006, 12:37 PM   #15 (permalink)
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well done Tex...As for the GT series, just go here.http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...ison_sheet.htm
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