Holy SMOKES!

[Sota]

THAT... is an interesting and brutally simple answer/solution to the problem.

I like it Easy to test too.

[Sota]

Now I wonder if he doesn't have that problem, plus residue in the exhaust from the prior seal failure.

[Ude Lose]

I actually just ordered all new copper o-rings from mopar and a new oil return line gasket just for shits n gigs. Thats why i have hesitated on sending the turbo back to bob right away. Im gonna try the new parts tomorrow after work and see what will happen. Ill post up results. I gotta go buy more coolant before i can start it up. Ive lost alot from taking the turbo on and off.

[playing_u_28]

I would suggest taking a look at the shaft play, though it may wiggle a bit, it shouldn't wiggle more than an 1/8in. Also check the inside of your mani, if you do have shaft play and the inside of your mani is scratched up, get your refund. If not I would suggest compression/leak down test. I know from a recent rebuild that not all dealerships use the right rings, the rings they put on were anywhere from .030 to .053, standard ring gap is .007-.015. $50 and a week later, looking smoke free.

[Sota]

dafuq?

[DickSRT]

Quote: Originally Posted by Ude Lose

I actually just ordered all new copper o-rings from mopar and a new oil return line gasket just for shits n gigs. Thats why i have hesitated on sending the turbo back to bob right away. Im gonna try the new parts tomorrow after work and see what will happen. Ill post up results. I gotta go buy more coolant before i can start it up. Ive lost alot from taking the turbo on and off.

When you take off your oil feed line and coolant lines to replace the copper crush washers, inspect your oil feed and banjo bolt for cracks/leaks. If your feed line or banjo bolt is cracked, replacing that copper washer will do nothing for you. Eliminate all the simple possibilities before you begin to assume larger, more costly ones are the cause. Good luck!

[Ude Lose]

Quote: Originally Posted by Sota

dafuq?

[Ude Lose]

Quote: Originally Posted by DickSRT

When you take off your oil feed line and coolant lines to replace the copper crush washers, inspect your oil feed and banjo bolt for cracks/leaks. If your feed line or banjo bolt is cracked, replacing that copper washer will do nothing for you. Eliminate all the simple possibilities before you begin to assume larger, more costly ones are the cause. Good luck!

Thanks man, will do.

[Ude Lose]

So i ordered 2 copper crush wings from the dealer. Part number 05045039aa. I searched and the forums said that is the appropriate part number for the oil feed line gasket. Wrong, they dont fit the oil feed, they fit the coolant feed/return. This is great So I guess that I will order the coolant ones and hope I get the oil washers.

[Sota]

got a harbor freight near you? they sell a copper washer master kit for cheap that has the right washers in them. usually ALOT cheaper for the whole kit than just the washers from the dealer.

[Ude Lose]

Quote: Originally Posted by Sota

got a harbor freight near you? they sell a copper washer master kit for cheap that has the right washers in them. usually ALOT cheaper for the whole kit than just the washers from the dealer.

Yeah theres a store near my house. Thanks Sota!!

[Sota]

n/p.

there's also a way to 'recondition' the copper washers... something about heating them lightly with a blow torch or something. causes the copper to soften and flow back into the grooves enough.

[Ude Lose]

Well i went to harbor freight and got the copper washers. 80 assorted sizes for $5. Although of that 80 I could only utilize 6 of them. I found that the 6 washers fit perfectly on the coolant feed lines. They fit perfectly on those banjo bolts. Unfortunately not so well on the oil feed bolts. I had to drill them out a bit in order to fit.

[Sota]

which kit did you get.

[Ude Lose]

Also i decided to do an oil change today. The oil was surprisingly dirty for only having less than 450 miles on it. I found some oil on the bottom of my car. I had no idea where it came from. So while doing the oil change I found that i couldn't get the oil filter loose. I didnt have a strap wrench or any other form of oil filter wrench with me at the time. So i unbolted the 3 10mm bolts that hold the assembly to the pan. To my surprise the assembly was loose, which may explain where all of the oil under the car came from. So i took that off and brought it into the garage and broke it down and reassembled it very tightly. I finished the oil change, put everything back together under the car. I put the turbo back in the car topped off the anti freeze and then it got dark. Ill post results of tomorrows events.