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Old 11-16-2012, 08:30 AM   #571 (permalink)
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hey i mentioned the old school way of things, not backyard, just old school.


of course i do like your way alot better.

Edit: i just remembered, the way i mention was for when the block is already fully assembled, not when the pistons are removed, then Bob's way is muchmore accurate and better. but when it is fully assembed and you chekc it, that is pretty much the easiest way rather then taking it all apart again.

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Old 11-16-2012, 09:48 AM   #572 (permalink)
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You can also put the second ring on the piston and turn it upside down in the bore to square the ring in the bore to check end gap on the rings. Get us some pics of the skirts. Are the pistons on the rods correctly intake/ exhaust side?
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:26 PM   #573 (permalink)
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Gonna measure the cylinders tomorrow.
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Old 11-17-2012, 08:05 PM   #574 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Ude Lose View Post
Gonna measure the cylinders tomorrow.

Which method are you going to use?
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:50 AM   #575 (permalink)
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he's probably going to use your method bob, since his block is NOT assembled.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:30 AM   #576 (permalink)
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Ill be getting to use a dial bore gauge. Im going to borrow it on friday and measure the bore's on either sat or sunday. I was gonna do it last weekend but something came up.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:24 AM   #577 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Ude Lose View Post
Ill be getting to use a dial bore gauge. Im going to borrow it on friday and measure the bore's on either sat or sunday. I was gonna do it last weekend but something came up.

Perfect man. That is really the best way to do it.

Keep in mind the gauge itself will need to be set up prior to use too. This is typically done one of two ways. 1) using a ring gauge that is precision ground, to "zero" out the dial. So for example if you have a ring gauge that is 3.445" (stock bore) or 3.465" (for .020 oversized), you would insert the gauge in it, and adjust the dial indicator so the needle is at zero and lock it in.
The second way of doing it is to use a micrometer set to your desired diameter, and carefully use the mic to do the same process as above to zero out the indicator.

Once that is done, you should measure each cylinder at the top (~.500 down from the deck), in the middle, and at the bottom of each bore, and do each top/mid/bottom at a 12/6 o'clock position AND at a 3/9 o'clock position and write each dimension down(just write the +/- readings from the guage). This will tell you how much, and where the wear in each cylinder is at.

I know your dad is (or was) a diesel mechanic, so hopefully he can help out with this too, but please let me know if you do not understand this process 100% as it's critical that the readings be recorded correctly.

Let me know Richie!

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Old 11-20-2012, 11:37 AM   #578 (permalink)
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don't forget to tell him to number the pistons to the respective bores as well as it will help.
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Old 11-24-2012, 01:32 PM   #579 (permalink)
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any updates
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:05 AM   #580 (permalink)
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Got the gauge just need to get down there and use it....



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Old 11-26-2012, 09:24 AM   #581 (permalink)
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Looks like a nice gauge. Only disadvantage to that kind is it will be more difficult to detect out of roundness of the bores.... you will most likely only be able to test for taper.

Did you get a chance to go and check them out?


Quote: Originally Posted by Ude Lose View Post
Got the gauge just need to get down there and use it....




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Old 11-26-2012, 10:55 AM   #582 (permalink)
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I am aiming for saturday Bob. Honestly it was just too cold this past weekend to work on the car.
My father in law is a machinist so he helps me out with getting measuring equipment.
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:21 PM   #583 (permalink)
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So what did we find out Richie?
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:22 AM   #584 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by a853rox View Post
So what did we find out Richie?

As far as?

If you mean the cylinders, they are not out of round.
I'm just waiting on an e-mail i guess from MAP regarding what we spoke about on the phone recently.
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:38 AM   #585 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Ude Lose View Post
As far as?

If you mean the cylinders, they are not out of round.
I'm just waiting on an e-mail i guess from MAP regarding what we spoke about on the phone recently.

It would be tough to tell out of roundness with a three point bore gauge like what you used, typically this is easier done with a 2 point gauge.

Nevertheless, the main point of this was to see what kind of wear was measured in the bores, and if nothing else, be able to verify your piston to wall clearance.

So, if you did measure, what are the readings you got for all 4 cyl, at the tops/mid/bottoms?
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