I did reply in the PM as well, but i figure I would explain what we did while diagnosing your setup.
-Part dimensions (turbine shaft, and turbine seal bore in CHRA) were inspected for wear, and dimensions, all were within spec.
-Turbo was rebuild, and balance was verified
-Turbo was run in our VSR balancer with heated, pressurized oil, with no leaking past the seal.
On all accounts, with multiple checks, the turbo is good in our eyes.
Possible causes of the continued smoking:
-too much crank case pressure causing more oil than normal to bypass through the piston seal (very rare btw)
-oil drain tube blockage causing the same (more common)
-too much oil feed pressure (normally not an issue with journal bearing turbos)
-you still have residual oil in the manifold and dump tube that needs to clear out
-you have oil leaking from elsewhere in the system like valve stem seals or cracked ringlands causing severe blow by.
Now im not sure what other testing you have completed, but I would recommend looking in other areas to ensure that your car is tip top. We did as thorough a check on the turbo as possible, and it's good brotha!
Certainly keep me informed of what you find Richard!
Thanks for the further diagnosis on your end Bob, its much appreciated.
Every part from top to bottom in my engine is brand new and only has 450 of soft brake in driving on each component. You guys did the ported head and valves no longer than 6 months ago. I had installed the following at your shop while the head was there.....
Map S3 head with
Brass valve guides
New valve seals
Rev+1 intake +2 exhaust valves
Rev dual titanium valve springs
With.... (installed at my local machine shop were the pistons/rings and bearings)................
Bc S3 cams
Arp head studs
JE 8.5:1 pistons
Acl rod bearings
Deleted balance shafts(done by my during engine assembly,yes i closed the oil port with a screw as instructed in the how to)
Also I have checked the oil return line for blockage and I found no obstructions. I used a wire coat hanger and heard it go all the way down to the oil pan.
Also I would like to point out this fact that, every time I simply start the engine, I can go and remove the band clamp and there will be oil in it. I mean it can run and get to normal temperature and then shut it off and then there will be oil in the band clamp.
I will be doing a compression and also a leak down test on sunday. I will post the results once they are both completed.
Once the engine was started after installing the turbo after I got it back form map, I would let the car warm up and idle and my autometer electrical oil pressure gauge that I have installed in the head will have a normal reading of 18-22 psi at idle.
So this is where I stand. I expect good things from this sundays tests as the engine is brand new.