As you guys know we were going to do a forged 2.6 stroker a while back and due to the lack of interest we backed out of the project. Well, we've decided to go at it a little differently this time around, read on.
After purely hating the "built" motor that was in my car (got from a customer who had it built by a reputable shop) it finally got time to replace the thing. I put a stock shortblock in and tore into the old motor and did some measuring, calling, and reading.
First off I'd like to thank Nemo for doing this first, I have done some research and this info is out there for anyone to find, you just have to get off your ass and do it.
What I will show you is how to build a 2.6 stroker with a lot of off the shelf parts. Yes I know, before you start flaming me (I've got my flame suit on), I've ordered all the parts and will assemble this and give you guys the specs on everything. The things that we've come across are the following;
Specs for a 2.6 (guys keep in mind that I build LS motors, the things that are entailed in engine building is simple, you will have to cut through the b.s. when you are asking around, we plan to prove it first, then give the factual info to you guys)
4.160" stroke crank (offset grind the stock setup and have it ion nitride coated -a whole lot cheaper than you think, same process many engine builders use to increase strength in cast parts, not only is it uber cool, it's not very expensive. Here's a link for more info: Racing Plasma PVD & Ion Nitride Plasma Coatings USTEL# 800.632.6281)
5.9" rod (4G63 box stock rod is used, make sure the pin diameter is .866, we will provide part numbers)
Pistons are being custom made for us by Wiseco, I sent the order in today and they will be done in 10 days. We are pulling the piston down to .150" in the hole and using a 10cc spherical dish to get the compression ratio to 8.5:1. They said if they work they will get them in their system as a standard shelf stock part number or they'll make 'em for us as we need them. We thought about using the box stock Wiseco's and maching ~13cc of material off the top of the pistons, we found that some do this and we just didn't want to take the risk, plus, Wiseco will build us some for $550.
block will be taken .040 over to achieve the size we desire
Here's the math for those who want to know...
Deck height 9.375"
Bore 3.486" (.040 over)
Stroke 4.160"
Rod Length 5.9"
Pin height 1.4" (will verify with Wiseco tomorrow)
All of this can be done in the $1800 range for parts, the bearings we will use are ACL tri-metal box stock bearings and the pistons will be ceramic coated on top and friction coated on the skirts.
I'll give it a shot and let everyone know how it works out!
Updates coming soon with part numbers and prices!
Steve A.
WE WILL UPDATE THIS PARTS LIST AS WE GATHER INFO, KEEP LOOKING BACK HERE FOR MORE INFORMATION!!!!
-PARTS LIST-
CONNECTING RODS
Pauter -
MIT-220-480-1500F(Not sure if this is the 7 bolt, or 6 bolt design for sure yet, if you can find both, make sure you get the 7 BOLT)Here's a link: Mitsubishi
Crower -
B93762B-4 Crower Cams & Equipment - What's New
Manley -
They have one version, and another version in their catalog that is considered their "stroker" rod, it's lighter, and it's their "straight beam" design, still not sure what this means exactly, here's a link to their catalog: http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/2009/rods.pdf
I also found an online store that gives a little more info about the different specs if you want to check it out here. EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Carrillo Pro-H Beam Connecting Rods: Mitsubishi Eclipse 7-Bolt & EVO VIII/IX
GRP Rods -
Apparently they make some, I've seen them in online stores, but cannot find an online catalog to get the right part numbers.
Scat -
2-5906-1771-1038-866
PISTONS
Wiseco -
PN - CUSTOM
Price from us - $599.99
Pistons are done, pics on post # 75!
BEARINGS
Pn's coming soon!
CRANKSHAFT
Mopar pn - 47816438AA
We will give you the specs to have the crank ground to, or, you can get the crank machined and coated from us. If you choose to do this yourself make damn certain that you send it to Racing Plasma PVD & Ion Nitride Plasma Coatings USTEL# 800.632.6281 after the machining is done to have it coated.
__________________
Owner/Operator of SNL Performance and Monster Clutch Co. Don't pm me, email me instead at steve@monsterclutch.com!!!!
Last edited by Steve@SNLPerformance : 06-04-2009 at 11:36 AM.
I DID!!! j/k Good job on the research man!! I guess I'm going to be the lazy one who just tests it on my car, Steve, Ruiz, and I will all have the strokers in our cars within the next couple of months I'm sure.
__________________
Glad to join the SNL Performance family!
2005 Black SRT4 SNL 50 TRIM KIT...
Last edited by Knuckles05 : 05-07-2009 at 08:13 PM.
like I said, ill sit here and wait for this to fail, because it will fail and it will be hilarious
Quote: Originally Posted by raven
lol, im 2.8 now, the 2.6 is soo 4 years ago...
ill stick to DCR that warranties their product and DOES development as opposed to talking about developing a product
First off I want to make it very, very, clear that I will not be offering a "stroker kit" for the SRT4. And to be very blunt, I'm going to do what has been done a ton of times by others.
If it fails then so be it, it's my money and my car. I don't make money on SRT4's, I do a tremendous amount of work on the LS based GM vehicles and the only reason I'm doing this is because I own a SRT4 and I want to play around with some shit, nothing more. We found the recipe on the forums and internet, the difference in what I'm doing is that I'm not sprinkling any magic dust on it, I'm giving you guys all the info and letting you decide. There isn't any mystery as to how to build a stroker, offset grind a crank, or get bearings from ACL to work. There also isn't some mystery on how to make a great piston, that's why I got with the engineers at Wiseco, I don't make pistons but they sure as hell do. And I'm not developing shit, I'm copying Nemo just like so many others have.
So, I encourage you to sit back and enjoy the show, if it blows up I'll be laughing with you!
P.S. Lifes too short to be so uptight like you're being, relax man, it's not your money.
Quote: Originally Posted by 91PumpKing.
awesome.
i expect about 8-9 guys that dont have the damnest clue what to do w/ this, try this at home and fail miserably.
Agreed.
We will give all the info we possibly can and we will not be offering these as a kit. This will be stricktly a DIY thread, so, if you don't know what the hell you're doing just read it and nothing more.
Quote: Originally Posted by supermech21
I hope this works out for you guys...only one way to find out right?
Thanks man and yep, just one way...
Quote: Originally Posted by RuizGT
I have the camera today, so I'll try to get some pics of the rods when they come in today, if they do come in today.
And to everyone else, I'm not trying to piss anyone off, this information has been available for a long time and I'm merely putting it all together for everyone to see. I don't care, really, who I piss off, we're not going to market this nor are we going to say everything we had made is "SNL custom etc." It is what it is guys, don't get pissed because I'm the only one that put all this together in one place publicly.
Here's the pics of the rods, as you can see in the picture we went with Eagle rods becuase they are cheap and if things go awry it won't hurt my wallet so much, that and the fact that the 4G63 rod by Eagle is rated up to 1000hp.
Here are the measurements on these rods;
PN - CRS5900MB3D
5.9" length
1.771" rod journal
1.890" housing bore
.866" pin size
1.0380" big end width
1.0380" pin end width
.200" thickness above the pin
There are many, many, rod manufacturers out there that offer a rod that will work in this application; Crower, Oliver, and Pauter are just to name a few. This will give you a good foundation for what you are trying to accomplish, you can get as crazy as you want when it comes to the connecting rod.
ill stick to DCR that warranties their product and DOES development as opposed to talking about developing a product
I'll take your 2.8 on with my 2.6.
Quote: Originally Posted by Steve@SNLPerformance
Here's the pics of the rods, as you can see in the picture we went with Eagle rods becuase they are cheap and if things go awry it won't hurt my wallet so much, that and the fact that the 4G63 rod by Eagle is rated up to 1000hp.
Here are the measurements on these rods;
PN - CRS5900MB3D
5.9" length
1.771" rod journal
1.890" housing bore
.866" pin size
1.0380" big end width
1.0380" pin end width
.200" thickness above the pin
There are many, many, rod manufacturers out there that offer a rod that will work in this application; Crower, Oliver, and Pauter are just to name a few. This will give you a good foundation for what you are trying to accomplish, you can get as crazy as you want when it comes to the connecting rod.
Would you be able to get me a set of oliver stroker rods? I am interested in changing them out.
Pauter - MIT-220-480-1500F(Not sure if this is the 7 bolt, or 6 bolt design for sure yet, if you can find both, make sure you get the 7 BOLT)Here's a link: Mitsubishi
Manley has one version, and another version in their catalog that is considered their "stroker" rod, it's lighter, and it's their "straight beam" design, still not sure what this means exactly, here's a link to their catalog: http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/2009/rods.pdf
Check the 14403-4, and the one below it.
Looking good, in for results. One question do you have to go .040 on the bore?
To make it a true 2.6 then yes you will, you can do .020 over and just round up if it makes you feel better...
Quote: Originally Posted by matthew00029
I'll take your 2.8 on with my 2.6.
Would you be able to get me a set of oliver stroker rods? I am interested in changing them out.
I can get you a set of Olivers for $720 + shipping if you want them.
Quote: Originally Posted by RuizGT
Pauter - MIT-220-480-1500F(Not sure if this is the 7 bolt, or 6 bolt design for sure yet, if you can find both, make sure you get the 7 BOLT)Here's a link: Mitsubishi
Manley has one version, and another version in their catalog that is considered their "stroker" rod, it's lighter, and it's their "straight beam" design, still not sure what this means exactly, here's a link to their catalog: http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/2009/rods.pdf
Check the 14403-4, and the one below it.
Here is an email from the engineer, this is a basic description for what they are building us. According to him it will be a proprietary part number for us, so, we'll have to sell them to you guys. We'll be getting them in 10 business days according to Wiseco!
Quote:
Yeah there are a ton of things. 2618 alloy material is what we use for our forgings. It maintains it’s strength longer than 4032 and much longer than cast or Hypereutectic. We use a Nitride steel positive twist top ring, and Napier 2nd ring, and a top flight oil ring….it’s called the XX package. The piston will be much lighter than stock (we’ll know how much when the parts are done), which literally takes tons of tension off the connecting rods at high rpm. The Spherical dish provides better combustion than other styles of parts. Valve pockets accommodate large cams and valve diameters and deshrouds the valves for better flow. The .200 wall thickness wristpins are used in many 250 horsepower per cylinder applications. We offset the pins like the o.e. for noise reduction when cold. A side benefit is the knock sensors don’t pull timing as is common with other manufacturers forged pistons. Wiseco holds the tightest tolerances in the industry when it comes to ring groove flatness and perpendicularity. The forging is designed just wide enough to accomodate the connecting rod small end to reduce pin flex.
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Got bored today...Stroker info
. One question do you have to go .040 on the bore?
Linear Mode
