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Engine starts then dies on 1g swap

2K views 42 replies 6 participants last post by  Slowryd 
#1 ·
hey guys I've been working on a SRT into a 1g swap but I am having an issue with the engine staying on. I believe it is a fuel issue caused by something electric. The fuel pump primes and the engine starts, but then dies a few seconds later like it isn't holding pressure. I swapped out every thing from a donor vehicle including the body harness. I believe I might have missed a ground somewhere, but am unsure. My odometer is also flickering if that helps. Any help would be appreciated.
 
#3 ·
The only code I am getting is P0499 for EVAP. The donor car was running before, the car was in a front end accident. I swapped over the steering column from the donor and am using the key that goes to it. The times I have hooked up a fuel pressure gauge it did not want to stay on even for a few seconds so I was unable to get a reading. The 'Noise Suppressor' looks good although it is attached to the coolant line bracket instead of closer to the exhaust manifold if that makes a difference, the wire also appears to be in good shape.
 
#4 ·
i thought the dash, pcm and skim need to be swapped (plus use key associate with donor)
 
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#9 ·
This is going to be a tough one to do remote, spark or fuel or both is causing it not to stay running. You say it starts but does not stay running and that you suspect a fuel issue. You are really going to have to get a pressure reading to know what's going on.
Is the Security light, red dot above the fuel gauge, On all the time? It should come on when you turn the ignition to Run, then you should hear a chime after a couple of seconds then it turns off. If it doesn't then you have a SKIM/Vehicle Immobilization issue.
 
#10 ·
I'll get another better fuel pressure gauge, I don't think this cheap harbor freight one is any good.
The security light won't come on when at all when the ignition is on, but it does blink when the alarm is activated. There is a a chime that goes off at first when the ignition is on run, then it stops and then goes off one more time but without the red dot above the fuel gauge.
 
#14 ·
Today I unplugged the skim module and cranked the engine over and I got the same result, engine starts then dies a few seconds later. When I had it unplugged the red light above the fuel gauge still didn't light up at all. Does this make it seem more plausible that it is a SKIM issue?
 
#15 ·
Unplugging the SKIM at this point will change nothing, if this is the issue, the PCM already has in memory that there is a Security issue and will need 'clearing' before it will allow the car to run.
Are we sure the Red dot works, has a bulb in it? Can't remember if the cluster test is supposed to light it up but try running one. Turn the key off, push and hold the trip button while turning the key to Run (do not start the engine), release the trip button and the gauges and lights should cycle through.
 
#16 ·
Unplugging the SKIM at this point will change nothing, if this is the issue, the PCM already has in memory that there is a Security issue and will need 'clearing' before it will allow the car to run.
Are we sure the Red dot works, has a bulb in it? Can't remember if the clustegr test is supposed to light it up but try running one. Turn the key off, push and hold the trip button while turning the key to Run (do not start the engine), release the trip button and the gauges and lights should cycle through.
The red light will blink when the alarm is activated so I know it works. What do I need to 'clear' the security issue?
 
#17 ·
If the car is not staying running because the PCM thinks you are trying to steal the car 'security issue'. If the Red dot is working then it should stay on constantly if a security issue. Since it is not then you have to start checking the usual culprits. Fuel and Spark.
I think you said there are not any error codes. Start with fuel pressure.
 
#18 ·
He's covered the basics since the Cluster, Skim, and Pcm came from the donor vehicle. Security light should blink when the car is off, when turned to ACC the security light stays on for roughly the same time the fuel pump is priming then shuts off. And you are correct a Steady light after starting would indicate the vehicle believes it's being stolen.

Unless by some weird chance there is a problem with the cluster it would disrupt the whole process.

When it stops running does it suddenly die or slowly stop?
 
#20 ·
Your fuel pressure should be 58 to start when it primes and maintain that when idling. Seems to be starting at <40 and dropping from there.
It might be the fuel pressure regulator in the tank or the pump or both. This swap included the fuel canister?

Also I did not see the gauges sweep all the way around during the test. Try holding the trip button longer and you can have the park lights on during the test.
 
#22 ·
Well, there's you're problem. Fuel pressure is suppose to be 58 Psi +/- 5psi. Please click on the manual link in my sig and goto 14-4 Fuel Delivery, no need to read past 14-5. I know you've been disappointed by this, but this looks to be an easy fix. What FPR , canister, and fuel pump are you using?. We'll tackle that first before the cluster.

Before you touch anything check and see if any fuel is leaking from the connection of the FPR to the canister.
Cut that out :jester:
 
#23 ·
I swapped over the complete SRT4 fuel tand but changed the canister to a cheap rock auto one as the tabs that held the fpr in place were broken on the stock one. I switched out the oem pump and fpr to the rockauto unit though. Car was running fine in the donor car prior to accident but maybe went bad from sitting and running old fuel through it when I tested it out.
 
#24 ·
My vote is fuel pump. We know from the gauge it attempts to prime the system but falls short.

That confirms a proper connection and the relay are working. Leaving you with pump, fpr, and dirty fuel sock. All inexpensive items.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
 
#36 ·
I did an resistance test on the ground from the fuel pump to the body ground in the trunk and I'm pulling 1.7ohm and for the fuel level sensor ground I'm pulling. 3ohm. I did have to cut and extend some of the wiring, maybe I used too much soldier in that one ground and it has too much resistance?
 
#38 ·
I did a fuel pump rewire and I'm getting a lot better psi, around 48psi, but it's bleeding down to 42 when after the pump is done priming. I didn't have a chance to start it but I'm hoping I'm getting closer to the solution.
 
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#39 · (Edited)
When you remove the stock "FPR" https://www.modernperformance.com/p...lator-95-05-neon/03-05-neon-srt-4-fuel-system

See the little o-ring on the very end of it? (the black one not the blue one) That o-ring usually falls off when you remove the FPR. I would suggest you remove and see if that o-ring is still installed or if the original one may have fallen down and clogged in there somewhere.

Short of that, Run a temporary power and ground to the pump and see what pressure you get. Could be as simple as a relay.
 
#40 ·
I switched out the dcr fpr to the oem one and I'm now sitting pretty at 58psi! I didn't have a chance to start it yet though cuz the battery was dead, I'm charging it now and hope to start it tomorrow morning.
 
#43 ·
Quoted for future reference.

DCR FPR
Low Fuel Pressure
Fuel Pressure bleeding off
 
#41 ·
Everything seems ok now and the engine is running fine. Fuel is staying at 58psi and engine stays running. Now I just need the final assembly of small things and it'll be out on the road. Thanks a lot guys!
 
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