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Does this piston oil squirter look normal?

5K views 16 replies 5 participants last post by  atroph 
#1 ·
I am wondering if this looks normal, specifically the bend between the squirter and bolt hole. All four of mine are the exact same. When I go to tighten the squirter in, it pulls the squirter up slightly because of the way it's bent. I just want to know if this looks normal, or if magically all of them are bent the same way...

 
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#4 ·
I was going to delete them, but I completely forgot about them after I removed them before spending hours cleaning the engine, then had it hot tanked, then more hours cleaning it again. I really don't want to tap those holes and clean it again so they are going back in :mopar:
 
#8 ·
I read on here awhile back about some people having issues with the squirters and Wiseco along with some old style JE. I haven't done my piston fit yet so hopefully they clear without issues.

I ended up taking a vice and straightening the squirters so they sit flush. My guess is the oil pressure will put them right back where they were anyways but at least I won't lose sleep over it. This is my first bottom end build so I'm a little OCD about it.
 
#9 · (Edited)
If they were having that experience with the 'stock' spec Wiseco and JE I am not sure. When I rebuilt her the first 4 times there was not much information going around and there were 2 different sets of JEs, stock spec and lower compression. The low compression ones were lighter and mathematically changed the stroke too, allowing more RPM form this engine. The stock specs does not bode well for high RPM above 8k as any engine builder will tell you.
Anyway I ramble, never could figure out why the squirter broke, less worry for me now anyway and slightly higher oil pressure in bearings area.
I am trying to be less anal about stuff like this, without too much success I might add. This being the 5 time on this ride, I just want to be able to drive her when I want, without worries, and get my boost fix in.;)
A small oil seep around the oil pan area is upsetting my OCD though.:crying2:
Used Hondabond but i wonder if the Mopar Red sealant we use on the cam cover and transmission end plate could be used on the oil pan. I don't run gaskets BTW, because of the crank scraper/baffle I use.
 
#10 ·
I don't think the oil pan to bedplate surface is smooth enough for red anerobic sealer. I'd use RTV on the oil pan or anywhere you're using sealer to replace a gasket. If you're talking about the bedplate to block, then I've no experience with that yet. I ended up paying a fortune for a tube of the mopar green stuff.
 
#11 · (Edited)
No red stuff around the oil pan. It will never cure. The red stuff is for aluminium to aluminum or cast iron to cast iron machined surfaces.

The MOPAR black RTV stuff should be used around the pan (I use the permatex brand personally). Hondabond should have worked too.

As for the difference between the red and green stuff the only difference is the curing time. There is no clearance difference once squished and cured. (sorry I don't have a linkable reference, just one of the little things I stuck in my head from years ago)
 
#12 ·
I have used the Black Toyota one when I had a '85 Supra. That one worked really well, had to pry the pan off.:)
That's the one my brother uses on his All-Trac.

In the meantime I am trying to distract my OCD so I don't drop the oil pan and try fixing this small seep.:lol:
 
#13 · (Edited)
The red stuff (anaerobic) will cure, it's designed to cure without air. The problem is it's not thick enough to seal a rough surface like the oil pan to bedplate where a gasket would normally be used. Like you said, it's designed for sealing matching machined surfaces only.

There is such a thing as red RTV though. I see a lot of people confusing Anaerobic with RTV just because it's red. I've seen a ton of people using red RTV on the transmission end case (not the cover plate) because people tell them to use the "red sealer".

The red (anaerobic) stuff will cure a lot faster if exposed to air then the green bedplate sealer. I remember reading many years ago the green stuff was necessary because the red stuff would start curing on the assembly line before the bedplate was attached to the block making it useless as a sealer. I also can't link to a source for that but it makes sense.
 
#14 ·
The red stuff (anaerobic) will cure, it's designed to cure without air. The problem is it's not thick enough to seal a rough surface like the oil pan to bedplate where a gasket would normally be used. Like you said, it's designed for sealing matching machined surfaces only.

There is such a thing as red RTV though. I see a lot of people confusing Anaerobic with RTV just because it's red. I've seen a ton of people using red RTV on the transmission end case (not the cover plate) because people tell them to use the "red sealer".
The max gap without an accelerant is 0.050" for the red stuff (Mopar Gasket maker). Was just browsing the Parmatex pdf archive and ran across that. Without an accelerant you can use the red up to 0.030"

And yes to confirm what I stated earlier, the green cures much more slowly to allow for torquing of the adjoining parts. The MOPAR catalog also notes that the green cures with heat even though is anerobic . I am guessing that it cures so slowly that it uses heat to speed the curing process once the parts are put together.
 
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