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Old 09-15-2009, 10:12 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Runner, I thought about cams i really have till i talked to some guys, cams dont really do anything unless you open the head up. Port polish over size valves. Yea it would sound mean, but thats alot of money to sound mean. Id rather sound stock, and than :

Cams + retaniers, springs, ect.

Alot of money there bro.... theres alot of guys running 500+ stock head. It can be done. D60 will help out ALOT
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Old 09-15-2009, 10:36 PM   #32 (permalink)
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How about head studs, head gasket, timing belt, and tensioner?
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Old 09-15-2009, 10:41 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Overcome View Post
How about head studs, head gasket, timing belt, and tensioner?

Got studs and DCR 5 layer already. Just pm darrell about re using the 5 layer im asuming you can?

I THOUGH about getting a tensioner. Should i??? Whats goes wrong with them??? I see modern has a billet one? I dont see how they brake? mine seems to be in good working order? Maybe someone can explain the use for a aftermarket tensioner? Timmin belt looks fine.
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Old 09-15-2009, 10:46 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quoted my darrel him self

"Next time you have your stock tensioner on the dyno watch the tensioner closely and you will see how inaccurate it is snd why they are on the edge of failure. Tske an AEM EMS car and lock your timing down on a flat number and strobe it with a timing light while reving the engine up and down. You will see it advance and retard the timing up to plus or minus 4 degrees with a stock sprung tensioner which also equals fail."


Guess thats my answer
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Old 09-15-2009, 10:46 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Thats CRAZYY!!!
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Old 09-15-2009, 10:56 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Chief View Post
Got studs and DCR 5 layer already. Just pm darrell about re using the 5 layer im asuming you can?

I THOUGH about getting a tensioner. Should i??? Whats goes wrong with them??? I see modern has a billet one? I dont see how they brake? mine seems to be in good working order? Maybe someone can explain the use for a aftermarket tensioner? Timmin belt looks fine.

Didn't realize you've already been DCR'd. I was leaning more towards a stock tensioner and belt. If you have fairly low mileage I wouldn't worry mcuh about the timing belt and tensioner. If it helps you sleep at night (like me) you might as well toss some new ones in the shopping cart and head to the front of the store. Good luck on the build and please don't cheap out on machining.
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Old 09-15-2009, 10:58 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Chief View Post
Quoted my darrel him self

"Next time you have your stock tensioner on the dyno watch the tensioner closely and you will see how inaccurate it is snd why they are on the edge of failure. Tske an AEM EMS car and lock your timing down on a flat number and strobe it with a timing light while reving the engine up and down. You will see it advance and retard the timing up to plus or minus 4 degrees with a stock sprung tensioner which also equals fail."


Guess thats my answer

I stand corrected. Perhaps you should get a better one!
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Old 09-15-2009, 10:58 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Machine works is being done by a X top fuel motor builder. lol Soo im sure he knows whats going on.

If i get a new tensioner ill go DCR or modern.
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Old 09-15-2009, 11:05 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Chief View Post
Machine works is being done by a X top fuel motor builder. lol Soo im sure he knows whats going on.

If i get a new tensioner ill go DCR or modern.

Sweet. I don't know if they're all like this, but some machinists have different levels of balancing with the ultra close balances (withing the thousandth or ten thousandth) being the most expensive and the run of the mill balances to within a gram being the least expensive. Too many people overlook or cheap out on machine work. Just look at the thread with the guy who just tossed rods and pistons in his car with absolutely no machine work done. Also are you getting a torque plate for your block boring?
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Old 09-15-2009, 11:16 PM   #40 (permalink)
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torque plate? I have NO idea what he uses for boreing ect. Im just trusting hes a top fuel builder, Im asuming he knows his shit? I can ask him? could you explain?
And yes im havein the crank and rods and pistons looked at and make sure everything is balacned.
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Old 09-15-2009, 11:29 PM   #41 (permalink)
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You have a problem. It's called lack of knowledge. One person says something and you automatically jump on that bandwagon. There is nothing wrong with diablo on big turbos with big injectors. Talk to the people who know and are pretty much running the diablo game right now. turbo666/tdsaaron.

I'd be willing to bet if you searched deep, you'd find more threads knocking the fic than you would knocking dsp. I know because when it first came out, I was interested in it, until I saw the issues people were having.

Talk to knowledgable people before you knock something.
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:22 AM   #42 (permalink)
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I just dont wanna deal with the whole dsp tunning deal, Not being able to tune your self sucks. I have to constantly go get it tunned by a dyno just to change factors. Is BULL I want something i can TUNE my self, and not need a "dealer" to have to adjust the dsp just so it will work with my set up. Dont see whats wrong with FIC?? works well?
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Old 09-16-2009, 10:00 AM   #43 (permalink)
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So the only difference between these two sets of BC rods is the bolts correct???

are the actual RODs stronger rods than a eagles?

Brian Crower Rods 03-05 Dodge Neon SRT4/SRT-4 bROD:eBay Motors (item 130321963290 end time Sep-28-09 14:19:45 PDT)

Brian Crower 03-05 Dodge Neon SRT-4/SRT4 BC625+ Rods:eBay Motors (item 130321730352 end time Sep-27-09 11:10:04 PDT)
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Old 09-16-2009, 10:18 AM   #44 (permalink)
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the bc rods are stronger than eagles... if you have the money make sure you get the rods with better rod bolts.
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Old 09-16-2009, 10:45 AM   #45 (permalink)
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im going bc, just not sure what bolts to go with. sounds like the regular bc rods standard bolts are good for 600 where 625s are 600+ soo we will see
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