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#1 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2010
Member Number: 78320
Location: constant flux
Posts: 1,261
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Got the timing belt kit from Modern Performance and it has the cam seal replacements.
I have read the little information I could find on this topic in our forums and it appears that some people have had problems with changing their cam seals primarily leaking after install. I inspected the cam seals and they dont have a drop of oil around them so they seem in good shape. Worth risking putting in a new set? Or should I leave it be -until problems arise? Then change em... Also I have this tool that the service manual recommends for removal of the camshaft seals....however for the life of me I cant see how it works?? The Cam seals are tight how does this thing dig em out?? Anyone ever used it before? ![]() Please advise!!
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The mind creates a false mind-made self that casts a shadow of fear and suffering...
2008 black Corvette / 2004 black SRT4 Owned 2004 and 2005 SRT4 both sold...this is my 3rd friggin one...what the fugs wrong with me??http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f169...l-help-634159/ http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/...w-pics-630960/ http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f25/...ummary-569367/ Last edited by Cor430vette; 09-24-2012 at 10:11 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2010
Member Number: 78320
Location: constant flux
Posts: 1,261
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Here is a diagram that I found on it....regarding crank and camshaft seal removal...
![]() Some how it screws into it or something....if you have used this before or something similar let me know !!
__________________
The mind creates a false mind-made self that casts a shadow of fear and suffering...
2008 black Corvette / 2004 black SRT4 Owned 2004 and 2005 SRT4 both sold...this is my 3rd friggin one...what the fugs wrong with me??http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f169...l-help-634159/ http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/...w-pics-630960/ http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f25/...ummary-569367/ |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Supporting Vendor (Gold)
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Member Number: 45182
Location: Central IL
Posts: 9,363
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If the valve cover is already off, its 4000X easier just to unbolt the cams from the head and slide the seals off.
The only thing that's the least bit complicated about it is that you have to follow the bolt torque sequence.
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1025cc Injectors+ E85/GAS Base tunes =$359ADD Boost By Gear to ANY PCM boost control tune $75 E85+Gas Base tune Combo $150*[*Only available for 1025cc Siemens/FIC1100&2150/AGP1200/All ID] PLEASE USE EMAIL!!dave at needlesstorque dot com Last edited by duster360; 09-25-2012 at 09:22 AM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2012
Member Number: 88505
Location: E-Town
Posts: 163
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Don't take the cams out. All u need is a pick or a small flat screw driver. Carefully dig into the face of the seal and pull it out. Re lube the new seal and gently tap it in with a socket n hammer
MB865
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I rev at hybrids so they can hear me killing the environment.......
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#5 (permalink) |
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Supporting Vendor (Gold)
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Member Number: 45182
Location: Central IL
Posts: 9,363
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imo, its too easy to accidentally scratch the surface of the cam which can easily cause the new seal to fail
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1025cc Injectors+ E85/GAS Base tunes =$359ADD Boost By Gear to ANY PCM boost control tune $75 E85+Gas Base tune Combo $150*[*Only available for 1025cc Siemens/FIC1100&2150/AGP1200/All ID] PLEASE USE EMAIL!!dave at needlesstorque dot com |
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#7 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: May 2006
Member Number: 41861
Location: az
Posts: 3,009
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Duster is right about the scratching of the surface. When I do them I only remover the end cap so I can slide the seals off. You'll have to remove the cam gears too but its not hard.
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#9 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2008
Member Number: 69549
Location: Virginia
Posts: 387
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Drill about a 1/16-1/8 inch hole in the seal. Screw in a sheetrock screw. Pull on the screw with a set of pliers.
The reinstallation is fairly straight forward. I use a socket that has the same diameter of the seal. Gently tap in with hammer until it goes no further (cams out). If the cams are in I use a 1/4 socket extension to gently tap the seal in. It is important to insert the seal evenly. I usually tap at like 12 then 6 then 3 then 9 o'clock positions. Then alternate to 2-5-8-11 o'clock. Gentle taps and it will go in just fine. Try and keep the seal as square as possible while installing. Tap it until it stops going in. IIRC it is about 1/16" set back from the edge. It is not like the rear main that goes flush with the block. From what I have read that is the biggest issue is them not being in far enough and they pop out. The opening of the bore is tapered, and if you install it flush with the edge you only have about 1-1.5 ribs of the seal holding it in. Edit: Forgot to mention that the reason for the 1/4 socket extension is because it fits perfectly in between the camshaft and the seal bore. Last edited by atroph; 11-19-2012 at 07:36 PM. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2010
Member Number: 82185
Location: Bowmanville, On
Posts: 979
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that ^^ is usually the method I use, it's better to have a socket the same size as the seal so that it goes in straight. Haven't had one pop out yet
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280whp 303wtq 16g bws, injen short ram, meth injection.
Stock intercooler, manifolds, o2 housing, wastegate, and motor. Best et: 13.4 Best trap: 107 |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2004
Member Number: 8941
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 7,097
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They move with your hands, but wont move themselves. The rocker arms keep them in place.
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20G Stage 3 on E85: New data:384 hp 411 tq
"Maybe I should just stick to bolt-ons." -Hitler I don't really want to wrench anymore. I'd rather detail. |
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