An "upgraded" crank is still a stock mopar, though it is hardened, polished, and balanced. The stocker without any treatment will tolerate high horsepower and as long as your assembly is well balanced with coated bearings, I don't see the need to do much with it.
Even though your building a 1,000 horsepower, I hope you realize you need about 600-700whp to run 8 seconds. Unless youre doing a full tubular setup and running licensed classes, what the fuck are you gonna do with 1,000hp? Stock crank is proven to 600whp and probably good for more. I understand the concept of "building with headroom" but seriously, come down to earth a little with your expectations. If youre building a fast setup, spend more time looking into rpms and torque and build around those parameters. horsepower is the least of your worries when trying to go REALLY fast.
That said I don't see why anyone couldn't upgrade their crank without going through DCR. SNL did it themselves and provided a link in their "Got bored....stroker" thread.
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Last edited by 04blusrt_4 : 11-09-2009 at 08:46 AM.
An "upgraded" crank is still a stock mopar, though it is hardened, polished, and balanced. The stocker without any treatment will tolerate high horsepower and as long as your assembly is well balanced with coated bearings, I don't see the need to do much with it.
Even though your building a 1,000 horsepower, I hope you realize you need about 600-700whp to run 8 seconds. Unless youre doing a full tubular setup and running licensed classes, what the fuck are you gonna do with 1,000hp? Stock crank is proven to 600whp and probably good for more. I understand the concept of "building with headroom" but seriously, come down to earth a little with your expectations. If youre building a fast setup, spend more time looking into rpms and torque and build around those parameters. horsepower is the least of your worries when trying to go REALLY fast.
That said I don't see why anyone couldn't upgrade their crank without going through DCR. SNL did it themselves and provided a link in their "Got bored....stroker" thread.
I never said I was looking for a 1,000HP, I build my engines overkill so nothing goes wrong. I know sometimes things do but it more not likly to happen.
I never said I was looking for a 1,000HP, I build my engines overkill so nothing goes wrong. I know sometimes things do but it more not likly to happen.
Thats my point, there is no need to build it to handle 1000whp, so stop asking for where to find parts for a 1000hp build. They arent available. There will be no difference in reliability between your 1000hp build spec and my 600hp build spec if we both run 500hp. Get my point? In fact, youre more likely to suffer failures due to your heavier setup. A 1000hp "overbuild" will be track-only type parts, that aren't meant to deal with daily use and abuse, the tolerances will be much tighter and not deal well with long-term abuse.
Start a new thread asking for the parts that are applicable to your build. Describe what your goals are, and then you get some great advice for where to source your parts.
BTW manley guestimates 250hp per rod, but I am pretty confident VERY few people have tested them above 500whp on an SRT4. In fact, very few people have tested ANY rods by ANY manufacturer much above that mark on our platform.
And CP pistons....they ARE NOT rated at 1000hp.
So basically youve got a bullet proof heavy ass rod (close to 700g each)coupled with a 600whp capable piston, crank, and block. The CP pistons are average weight (close to 370g) so youre gonna need a shit ton of material ADDED to your crank to get it balanced, kind of a bad idea IMO. You should always be picking parts that complement each other.
See my point? Could have just gotten a nice Crower or BC and ARP 625 bolts rod, would have been just as bullet proof and lightened your wallet $200.
Thats my point, there is no need to build it to handle 1000whp, so stop asking for where to find parts for a 1000hp build. They arent available. There will be no difference in reliability between your 1000hp build spec and my 600hp build spec if we both run 500hp. Get my point? In fact, youre more likely to suffer failures due to your heavier setup. A 1000hp "overbuild" will be track-only type parts, that aren't meant to deal with daily use and abuse, the tolerances will be much tighter and not deal well with long-term abuse.
Start a new thread asking for the parts that are applicable to your build. Describe what your goals are, and then you get some great advice for where to source your parts.
listen no need to get all on the Dfense! Just because I build my engine how I do does not mean you have to get a little rude. I have yet to have a problem with the way I build engines. Im asking questions and gettin answers I dont need smart remarks IMO. Ive had 1,000 spec motors with 750hp in them just to keep the motor safe and have yet to had any problems. My 1,000Hp cobra has pistons and rods graded for 1,400 hp and the motor runs better then ever takes all the abuse and can be daily driven if I want to but i choose not to. Theirs nothing wrong with over building a stronger engine as long as its set up right.
BTW manley guestimates 250hp per rod, but I am pretty confident VERY few people have tested them above 500whp on an SRT4. In fact, very few people have tested ANY rods by ANY manufacturer much above that mark on our platform.
And CP pistons....they ARE NOT rated at 1000hp.
So basically youve got a bullet proof heavy ass rod (close to 700g each)coupled with a 600whp capable piston, crank, and block. The CP pistons are average weight (close to 370g) so youre gonna need a shit ton of material ADDED to your crank to get it balanced, kind of a bad idea IMO. You should always be picking parts that complement each other.
See my point? Could have just gotten a nice Crower or BC and ARP 625 bolts rod, would have been just as bullet proof and lightened your wallet $200.
JE and CP have been proven in many 1000+ hp cars. I have CP pistons in my cobra. Im going with them AMS for my build likes the idea. I just dont like to do anything close. If I build a 700HP motor I dont want my parts to be rated for 750 get what im saying. To me thats to close I been their done that and finished like everyone else with a busted motor at some point just running on borrowed time.
I get exactly what youre saying, youre not getting my point. You dont have the ability or way of making 750whp without some serious other modifications to the car, like tranny, driveline, suspension, etc. Were talking in the 10k+ range just for the OTHER stuff. So I guessed at that you are building a really strong setup, but not anywhere close to 1000hp. If you build the car to handle say 700whp, most likely youre going to land in the 500whp area, so thats plenty of head room.
And what is done in other cars does not transfer to whatever engine you choose to apply it to. Just like eagle rods run out to 8k rpms and 600+whp in an evo, most people on here agree they would never EVER try it with the same rod in an SRT4. So start listening, the stroke length and overall design of the a853 makes it important to deal with other issues, not just high hp ratings. I am confident I am giving you good advise
I am impressed by your cobra numbers, but you realize how little of that gets to the ground through the heap of suspension it runs, and also how little rpm youre using? 750whp SRT4 will require you to be in the 5500 to 8500rpm powerband area, sorry, its a little different than the cobra 6500 redline. That extra 2k rpms doesnt come easy, and what works for power there will greatly differ in high revving 4 banger. First thing that comes to mind....rod bolts. I can't believe that a 3/8 ARP 2000 bolt (standard on manely, BC, Eagle, Pauter, Oliver) can make it to 8,500 rpms and 1000hp continuously. I wouldnt sleep without at least a ARP 625, or a upgraded 7/16 ARP 2000 (like the crowers I mentioned).
What turbo do you plan to use?
Last edited by 04blusrt_4 : 11-09-2009 at 10:59 AM.
I get exactly what youre saying, youre not getting my point. You dont have the ability or way of making 750whp without some serious other modifications to the car, like tranny, driveline, suspension, etc. Were talking in the 10k+ range just for the OTHER stuff. So I guessed at that you are building a really strong setup, but not anywhere close to 1000hp. If you build the car to handle say 700whp, most likely youre going to land in the 500whp area, so thats plenty of head room.
And what is done in other cars does not transfer to whatever engine you choose to apply it to. Just like eagle rods run out to 8k rpms and 600+whp in an evo, most people on here agree they would never EVER try it with the same rod in an SRT4. So start listening, the stroke length and overall design of the a853 makes it important to deal with other issues, not just high hp ratings. I am confident I am giving you good advise
I am impressed by your cobra numbers, but you realize how little of that gets to the ground through the heap of suspension it runs, and also how little rpm youre using? 750whp SRT4 will require you to be in the 5500 to 8500rpm powerband area, sorry, its a little different than the cobra 6500 redline. That extra 2k rpms doesnt come easy, and what works for power there will greatly differ in high revving 4 banger. First thing that comes to mind....rod bolts. I can't believe that a 3/8 ARP 2000 bolt (standard on manely, BC, Eagle, Pauter, Oliver) can make it to 8,500 rpms and 1000hp continuously. I wouldnt sleep without at least a ARP 625, or a upgraded 7/16 ARP 2000 (like the crowers I mentioned).
What turbo do you plan to use?
the turbo is the secret lol not trying to sound like a dick but something that ams plans to test out on the motor. Everyone will see soon enough theirs some ideas in the works for some test and tune.
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