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Old 06-18-2008, 04:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Beating the heat

Just one damned thing after another with these srt-4 neons. This particular issue is related to the engine cooling system, and why its trying to overheat.
I ran down through all the norms:
-Leak check
-New t-stat
-New radiator cap
-Coolant flush/fill
-Pressure test
-Cylinder compression test.
And still, after about 20miles of driving the coolant seems to vaporize. Just turns to steam. There is no oil in the coolant, and no coolant in the oil. I am stumped. I have burped it out and waited whilst it sits in the lot. It will never even get to 200* while sitting in the lot running. I close the cap, and did the air pressure relief (rad.cap) and no steam, only coolant. But as soon as you start making a trip and are driving it, the f*cker wants to heat up. Anyone that can chime in here with some advice?
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Old 06-18-2008, 05:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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same thing happened to my fathers truck and it turned out to be a head gasket
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Old 06-18-2008, 08:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by turbotrix2004 View Post
same thing happened to my fathers truck and it turned out to be a head gasket

No loss of compression. No muddy fluids, all looks good.
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Old 06-19-2008, 04:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Might be your water pump.................Clicked in my head when you said start to drive..............
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Old 06-19-2008, 09:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by my_little_srt View Post
Might be your water pump.................Clicked in my head when you said start to drive..............

I guess it could be. Didn't really think of that either. What your saying is; when the rpm get going it just cant hold up? But during idle and pressure test it can hold it? I lucked out because I do have one sitting here nib. The only thing is, No spare timing belt. And if I am going to take the timing belt off to do the pump, the least I can do is replace it.
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Old 06-20-2008, 01:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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There is a method to check to see if your water pump is functioning. Take the pressure cap off. Remove enough coolant as to where you can see the top thermostat and the coolant has receded into the hose........Now start your car and stand straight up over the stat.........In a couple of mins you should see the stat open and the coolant being pushed through....If you hit the throttle gently you should see the coolant move faster into the hose....If you have no movement then its your water pump. But remember the coolant will rise, you should be able to tell the difference between rise and flow.....You could do this or remove the stat before you start the car instead of waiting for it to open.........
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Old 06-20-2008, 10:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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is your radator fins bent or dirty? or your ac condencer could be dirty not allowing proper air flow
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Old 06-20-2008, 11:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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on mine if it runs hotter than 210 it will start to blow coolant out the over flow even with a now cap. but it dosnd usually go ouer 200 unless im at wot for a while like 0-140sh then it gets to 210-220sh
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Old 06-22-2008, 11:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Coolant is leaking out of the hard lines that wrap around from the front of the motor to the rear, they pass over the top of the tranny. I cleaned the ledge on the tranny and hit it with some air from the compressor, then ran the motor for a bit. Noticed it was dripping from there. So tomorrow I am going to close up the lines that go to the oil cooler since that is no more. And replace the hard lines with some hi-temp silicon heater hose. I am guessing that will be the end all to the coolant situation. Also, On friday I took an old thermostat and cut the spring and valve out. So now the thermostat is just a piece of metal with some restriction on it, one of the n/a muscle engine guys said they have been doing that for years. And it worked on this srt-4 as well. And the coolant line leak is at a minimum too. Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions! Cheers!
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