Ok, thanks for the info. Am I wrong or does 22 degrees seem like low timing for a Mopar ECU? I had heard stage 2 likes to pull timing up top, but I may be mistaken on that. Any other input on this?
I believe with the AGP flash right now the highest timing I am running is 24-25 degrees.
Oh and I got my axle replaced tonight, I hope to have the car back on the road soon and then right back at the track.
Ok, thanks for the info. Am I wrong or does 22 degrees seem like low timing for a Mopar ECU? I had heard stage 2 likes to pull timing up top, but I may be mistaken on that. Any other input on this?
I believe with the AGP flash right now the highest timing I am running is 24-25 degrees.
Oh and I got my axle replaced tonight, I hope to have the car back on the road soon and then right back at the track.
yea the stage 2 pcm has lower timing tables but u can boost more with less chance of knock and i still can use my HOM witch increases the timing to around 27-29deg
yea the stage 2 pcm has lower timing tables but u can boost more with less chance of knock and i still can use my HOM witch increases the timing to around 27-29deg
Ahhh alright, I forgot about HOM. Yeah that would be interesting to see how it did with the lower timing and lots of boost.
Ok, thanks for the info. Am I wrong or does 22 degrees seem like low timing for a Mopar ECU? I had heard stage 2 likes to pull timing up top, but I may be mistaken on that. Any other input on this?
I believe with the AGP flash right now the highest timing I am running is 24-25 degrees.
Oh and I got my axle replaced tonight, I hope to have the car back on the road soon and then right back at the track.
Subscribed for the next time at the track. Depending how soon it is I might be there to watch you break another axle.
After getting my axle replaced and getting the car back on the road, I think I may have found the cause of my lower than expected dyno numbers and why the car has been running so horrible. When I took the car out today it would not build more than 15-16 psi boost almost like it had a boost leak. After testing I could not find any leak whatsoever. I reset the battery and drove the car again and my car would build anywhere form 5-25 psi boost under WOT and then it would start to drop away as rpms would climb. Each pull was different and the car just felt like it was being held back. It was really down on power under WOT, but under light loads and cruising the car ran great. Upon getting out of the car I heard a rattle sound and it dawned on my father and I that I most likely have melted the inside of my cat converter.
These problems have only developed since I have started using my two step more often in preparing for this race season and I have seen from many 2-step makers that it can be destructive to cat converters. It makes sense that the car has a hard time building and then sustaining boost because the exhaust is blocked up with the restriction. I will be removing the exhaust tomorrow to verify this. I wont be suprised because the cat has had tons of flames shot through it from the 2-step and the hundreds of WOTs shift both at the track and on the street.
After getting my axle replaced and getting the car back on the road, I think I may have found the cause of my lower than expected dyno numbers and why the car has been running so horrible. When I took the car out today it would not build more than 15-16 psi boost almost like it had a boost leak. After testing I could not find any leak whatsoever. I reset the battery and drove the car again and my car would build anywhere form 5-25 psi boost under WOT and then it would start to drop away as rpms would climb. Each pull was different and the car just felt like it was being held back. It was really down on power under WOT, but under light loads and cruising the car ran great. Upon getting out of the car I heard a rattle sound and it dawned on my father and I that I most likely have melted the inside of my cat converter.
These problems have only developed since I have started using my two step more often in preparing for this race season and I have seen from many 2-step makers that it can be destructive to cat converters. It makes sense that the car has a hard time building and then sustaining boost because the exhaust is blocked up with the restriction. I will be removing the exhaust tomorrow to verify this. I wont be suprised because the cat has had tons of flames shot through it from the 2-step and the hundreds of WOTs shift both at the track and on the street.
Hope you found the problem, keep us up to date.
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mods, s1, needswings v6, cai, mmi, slow4door sts, eibach pro springs, ebay hids.
After getting my axle replaced and getting the car back on the road, I think I may have found the cause of my lower than expected dyno numbers and why the car has been running so horrible. When I took the car out today it would not build more than 15-16 psi boost almost like it had a boost leak. After testing I could not find any leak whatsoever. I reset the battery and drove the car again and my car would build anywhere form 5-25 psi boost under WOT and then it would start to drop away as rpms would climb. Each pull was different and the car just felt like it was being held back. It was really down on power under WOT, but under light loads and cruising the car ran great. Upon getting out of the car I heard a rattle sound and it dawned on my father and I that I most likely have melted the inside of my cat converter.
These problems have only developed since I have started using my two step more often in preparing for this race season and I have seen from many 2-step makers that it can be destructive to cat converters. It makes sense that the car has a hard time building and then sustaining boost because the exhaust is blocked up with the restriction. I will be removing the exhaust tomorrow to verify this. I wont be suprised because the cat has had tons of flames shot through it from the 2-step and the hundreds of WOTs shift both at the track and on the street.
At racing a turbo car with a cat on it. If I would've known you were doing that I woulda smacked you upside the head!!! Did your parents drop you on your head alot as a baby?!? Get that bitch running and bring it to the grove.
At racing a turbo car with a cat on it. If I would've known you were doing that I woulda smacked you upside the head!!! Did your parents drop you on your head alot as a baby?!? Get that bitch running and bring it to the grove.
I had to pass emissions, kinda hard to pass a visual inspection without a cat. Now the car is exempt though. Only problem now is that Maxxfab is closed from now until June 8th.
I had to pass emissions, kinda hard to pass a visual inspection without a cat. Now the car is exempt though. Only problem now is that Maxxfab is closed from now until June 8th.
You can't pass a visual without a cat?!? Damn I wonder if the guys that inspected all my cars for the past 10 years knew that. Why is it exempt now?!?
After getting my axle replaced and getting the car back on the road, I think I may have found the cause of my lower than expected dyno numbers and why the car has been running so horrible. When I took the car out today it would not build more than 15-16 psi boost almost like it had a boost leak. After testing I could not find any leak whatsoever. I reset the battery and drove the car again and my car would build anywhere form 5-25 psi boost under WOT and then it would start to drop away as rpms would climb. Each pull was different and the car just felt like it was being held back. It was really down on power under WOT, but under light loads and cruising the car ran great. Upon getting out of the car I heard a rattle sound and it dawned on my father and I that I most likely have melted the inside of my cat converter.
These problems have only developed since I have started using my two step more often in preparing for this race season and I have seen from many 2-step makers that it can be destructive to cat converters. It makes sense that the car has a hard time building and then sustaining boost because the exhaust is blocked up with the restriction. I will be removing the exhaust tomorrow to verify this. I wont be suprised because the cat has had tons of flames shot through it from the 2-step and the hundreds of WOTs shift both at the track and on the street.
Just curious, what boost controller are you using?
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AGP 50 Trim, .48 Turbine Housing
AGP SCT Flashed
12.9 @ 112 on street tires, 93 pump gas
Fastest SRT-4 in Vermont
Just curious, what boost controller are you using?
The car is exempt now because it is driven less than 5000 miles/year. I am using the Greddy Profec B Spec II and I actually have a problem with that now, but first the cat. Once I got the downpipe down and looked inside I saw one of the cat baffles in pieces laying on the other baffle. So that was one of the major problems. I proceeded to gut the cat and reinstall. The car now has a really bad drone around 2400 rpm which I hope is just from the leftover weld ribs inside the cat. I am still going to get a different downpipe that is straight through. Well I took the car out for a quick ride with the boost controller set to off so it was just on the wastegate spring. It should have been 16-18 psi boost and when I went WOT I saw the boost fly past 25 psi and the car hit some kind of fuel cut or something as I was pushing the clutch in. I turned the boost controller on and set the boost to zero and set the limiter to 14 psi and tried again and it still went past 25 psi before I could shut it down.
Does anyone know what would cause the car to loose control of boost all of a sudden? It seems almost like the wastegate wasnt opening because I couldnt hear it. Back to the drawing board tomorrow before I have to leave for a picnic. I have no idea why it lost control of boost. Any ideas.
I snapped an axle today also. made a few runs on Drag radials. best run was 12.03@120 at 20psi of boost on my AGP .48 50T then on the 4th run SNAPP!! Driverside axle grenaded. : (
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Basically it looks like this minus a turbo...... oh and wheels too
I snapped an axle today also. made a few runs on Drag radials. best run was 12.03@120 at 20psi of boost on my AGP .48 50T then on the 4th run SNAPP!! Driverside axle grenaded. : (
Very nice times on drag radials, the axle replacement is really easy.
Anybody know why my boost is going nuts. My thoughts are that:
A) Boost controller is broken and doesnt tell the wastegate to open to relieve pressure
or
B) Boost controller tells wastegate to open, but waste is stuck/malfunctioning and won't relieve boost pressure.
Did your parents drop you on your head alot as a baby?!?
Why is it exempt now?!?
Linear Mode
