I thought you were going to go with the 3071R? What changed?
I decided it wouldn't have been a big enough upgrade for me, because S3R in HOM was around 350+hp and I wasn't satisfied with that either
I decided if I'm going to upgrade, might as well just do it once, because I probably would have switched to this turbo a couple months afterwards anyway.
I thought you were going to go with the 3071R? What changed?
I decided it wouldn't have been a big enough upgrade for me, because S3R in HOM was around 350+hp and I wasn't satisfied with that
ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!! I totally agree man... I had the psi-fi kit with a GT3051 (custom for psi-fi) and the damn thing blew up on me...however i went with te ATP kit and th eATP kit ocmes std. with hte 3071R but it wasn't going to satisfy me either... I wanted that "WOOOO 4" inlet with port shroud compressor housing ... and the top end is stellar on my buddis 240sx stock internal'd...
Ok, I'll post there. I'll also update that thread with dyno numbers when I get them. I still need to get some 750s, and a new boost guage, but that's about it
Well I've had the kit on here for almost a month. Since then, I have done some clean up on the wiring, installed and started running my Devils Own water/meth controller with a M7 nozzle (which is not big enough) and I've also hooked up the stock Red line and White line, after making my own TIP clamp.
The water/meth injection helped a LOT, it feels much better, I'm getting more timing, and less (little to none) knock. Hooking up the TIP sensor again and clamping it at 2.9 volts helped a lot with drivability and even maybe spool up? Car runs great right now, and I'm at about 19psi with a 11.2 A/F dropping to low 10's at redline with the meth injection, without it I'm in the 11.0's and a little higher.
What I'm getting in the next week to the next 4 weeks is:
New boost gauge (tomorrow)
D-Tec BC option added
Turbo XS Wideband (trading for my NGK wideband)
Then I'm going to see where these RC 650s top out at on the dyno with some race gas.
[b]Another strange thing is, when I floor it, then switch gears, the next gear is really laggy, like it needs to spool again[/B
Does this happen in all the gears or just from like 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd under WOT. I have noticed that the car will hit 6k RPMS without a problem the only thing is that in lower gears like 1st and 2nd at 6k rpms the tires are spinning so when I shift it drops the boost because the rpms for the next gear are considerably lower. But im guessing that if traction was there that this would not be the case. Otherwise im seeing full boost around 3200 - 3300 rpms with my MBC.
[b]Another strange thing is, when I floor it, then switch gears, the next gear is really laggy, like it needs to spool again[/B
Does this happen in all the gears or just from like 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd under WOT. I have noticed that the car will hit 6k RPMS without a problem the only thing is that in lower gears like 1st and 2nd at 6k rpms the tires are spinning so when I shift it drops the boost because the rpms for the next gear are considerably lower. But im guessing that if traction was there that this would not be the case. Otherwise im seeing full boost around 3200 - 3300 rpms with my MBC.
Well yeah, if I spin the tires and redline to second, then switch to third too early, there is lag. But the lag I was talking about is mostly gone, I was talking about lag from 3rd to 4th, but it was a big boost leak.
But seeing full boost at 3300rpm is way off from mine, but I do not have the boost controller doing anything. I'm running straight off the stiff waste gate spring, so I think with a boost controller I can help the spool.
[b]Another strange thing is, when I floor it, then switch gears, the next gear is really laggy, like it needs to spool again[/B
Does this happen in all the gears or just from like 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd under WOT. I have noticed that the car will hit 6k RPMS without a problem the only thing is that in lower gears like 1st and 2nd at 6k rpms the tires are spinning so when I shift it drops the boost because the rpms for the next gear are considerably lower. But im guessing that if traction was there that this would not be the case. Otherwise im seeing full boost around 3200 - 3300 rpms with my MBC.
Well yeah, if I spin the tires and redline to second, then switch to third too early, there is lag. But the lag I was talking about is mostly gone, I was talking about lag from 3rd to 4th, but it was a big boost leak.
But seeing full boost at 3300rpm is way off from mine, but I do not have the boost controller doing anything. I'm running straight off the stiff waste gate spring, so I think with a boost controller I can help the spool.
With the E-01 (the green screen boost controller) and probably the Profec B Spec II you can set the ANTI-LAG to a certain percentage and it will HELP spool it quicker, but if you force it to spool it faster than waht it can you'll fry your boost controller...however on a stock turbo I got it to spool at 2400rpm's but its pointless because I shift at 2,500 when cruising...so full boost before a shift? pointless... A GT3076R you could probably make spool around 3300 with the Anti-Lag feature
[b]Another strange thing is, when I floor it, then switch gears, the next gear is really laggy, like it needs to spool again[/B
Does this happen in all the gears or just from like 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd under WOT. I have noticed that the car will hit 6k RPMS without a problem the only thing is that in lower gears like 1st and 2nd at 6k rpms the tires are spinning so when I shift it drops the boost because the rpms for the next gear are considerably lower. But im guessing that if traction was there that this would not be the case. Otherwise im seeing full boost around 3200 - 3300 rpms with my MBC.
Well yeah, if I spin the tires and redline to second, then switch to third too early, there is lag. But the lag I was talking about is mostly gone, I was talking about lag from 3rd to 4th, but it was a big boost leak.
But seeing full boost at 3300rpm is way off from mine, but I do not have the boost controller doing anything. I'm running straight off the stiff waste gate spring, so I think with a boost controller I can help the spool.
i noticed a better spool when i let my MBC control boost and not the WG on my 3071R.
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Keyboard dude, I have the D-Tec and I'm going to get the boost controller option for it shortly. Hopefully I can set up an anti-lag feature, per say, with it. Because I don't want to switch fuel set-ups just for that
Keyboard dude, I have the D-Tec and I'm going to get the boost controller option for it shortly. Hopefully I can set up an anti-lag feature, per say, with it. Because I don't want to switch fuel set-ups just for that
Keyboard dude lol....its cool. yea I dunno if the DTEC has it but try asking some of the guru's about it.
Now that I've had this monster of a turbo in my SRT for about 5 weeks, I can present an opinion about it compared to my stock turbo and S3R.
First off, I've been battling with boost leaks quite a bit on this set-up. I had a leaky clamp or two, a couple vacuum caps kept popping off, and now the only one left is my Lorenzo Throttle body. It leaks from the buttery fly shaft that leads to the outside of the throttle body on the cable linkage. My stock TB leaked there too, and the Lorenzo did not when I first put it in. Now it does. So the fix is to take it apart, and fill the cavity with a recommended Copper Gasket Silicone. I'll tackle that later on this week or next, but it's not a huge deal.
So to begin the big turbo tuning adventure, I started with everything as it was shipped from AGP. The Turbonetics Waste Gate had the original 9psi spring in it, and was obviously not enough for me. I was running the boost completely off the waste gate setting for a while, as I was working out the leaks. I was getting lag in between gear shifts, and really late spool (due to boost leaks and a low psi spring in the waste gate). So I installed the "dual spring" good for 15-20psi on it's own. I was seeing 18psi with just the waste gate, but full spool was only hitting at ~4100 RPMs or so. So then came the leak fixing frenzy. I probably leak tested 6 times in one week.
At first I could not see boost very well with my broken gauge, so when the Stweart Warner 40psi boost gauge came in, and I realized I was only at 18psi, I decided to turn things up (it was already a lot of power, but what the heck, why not?).
Using the Turbo XS HP BC I turned the boost up to 20psi and tuned it out. Mean while, before the boost gauge went in, I got my Devils Own water/meth controller working with my 150psi water pump and an M4 nozzle. The M4 nozzle wasn't enough, so I bought an M7 and installed it prior to turning the boost up. Now I've got the boost settled in and tuned for 21psi. Boy did using the MBC help spool! I'm seeing full boost now at about 3600 RPMs!! That's fast for this size of a turbo in my opinion.
Now with all that being said, there's much more I could talk about I suppose. Like the fact that the weather has been up and down a lot recently, and I went through driving around in 114 degree weather to 60 degree weather. A lot of people have this idea that you have to keep tuning it for different weather. Well, the original tune that I had at 18psi did not have to be changed at all through these drastic changes, just to let you know. The only changes I've made to the tune have been a result of increasing or decreasing boost, and the changing water/meth injection ratio.
The car drives GREAT. I made my own TIP sensor clamp, so that helped a bit with drivability. Though it wasn't bad before that, it definately helped (I had it capped before hand and was throwing a code for it). It's also very fast, I mean really fast, much faster than anything I experienced with the last set-up. S3R on pump to this 3076R is not even fair to compare, as the drivability is fine and cannot be argued with, so all that is left to compare is power, which is like comparing a stock SRT-4 to a S3R SRT-4, it's huge. I don't think that S3R was as fast as this 3076R is at 21psi compared to High Octane Mode on S3R hitting 24psi.
Bottom line, the turbo spools fast, hard, and keeps pulling all the way to my stock 6200 redline. It gets loose so bad in 2nd sometimes that it hits the rev limiter twice before the RPM gauge even gets to 4500 RPM Nothing but good things to say about it, and no regrets at all. Thanks for listening, and I know it's a long post but, there's more I could go on to say but I think this is enough
Waste gate spring at 18psi, from there using the MBC to get to 21psi.
Base Fuel Pressure at 40psi.
Idle pulling %30 fuel and redline I'm pulling %21.
Devils Own water/meth controller on setting 4psi, full setting 9psi using the M7 nozzle (7gph at 100psi). I need a bigger nozzle (trying M10 next week).
Now there are some things I could change, like fine tuning some more with base fuel pressure, and idle through part throttle boost to achieve a better long term and short term fuel corrections. I have no means of checking them yet, or timing advance (that kind of scares me) so I will be getting the Aeroforce Interceptor gauge that will show me everything else I need to know.
To tune out knock, I've been using the D-Tec knock reading. I only know what to look for because I've had it set up on the S3R and the stock turbo. It used to give readings all the time on S3R from 6 - 17 or so. So I can assume that those numbers are safe. Take mind to the fact that the number the D-Tec gives for knock is not in Degrees of Timing, it's just a number calculated from how far the knock sensor leaves it's expected voltage throughout the RPMs. I know it works because when I accidently hit 23psi on pump gas, I was knocking pretty bad and it was giving numbers 60-120. I consider anything under 40 nothing to worry too much about, and I like to keep it all under 20 at all times.
Another thing, to anyone thinking that being rich in fuel prevents knock you've got another thing comming. I have experienced bad knock in the 10.0 A/F range when there was too much boost/timing and not enough octane.
Oh yeah, I would not recommend going over 18psi on 91 octane without something else like water/meth.
Last edited by BrandonsBlack04SRT : 08-01-2006 at 10:19 PM.
Well I finally got down to Modacar today. Numbers were around what I expected. Much better than S3R on pump! I did 3 runs. First two in 3rd gear, nothing changed between runs. Last run on 4th gear and I pulled some fuel but it made no difference in peak power at all. It actually seemed to get knock (you'll see the graph) and the lines were bumpy. So I put the A/F back down to where it was. 4th gear definately spools up better on the dyno, and as you can see, this 3076R compares very well to my S3R as far as spool up :boink:
I think these numbers are great. Comparing to everyone else is one thing, but comparing to my previous S3R numbers... this is a huge improvement.
I'll use the best numbers for graph comparison of today to my best numbers on S3R from earlier in the year. This graph is of todays 3076R on 21psi at about 10.5 or lower A/F across the RPM range. 357hp 349tq. 3rd gear best run:
3076R Horse Power vs S3R Horse Power
3076R Torque vs S3R Torque
In 4th gear, the 3076R made better power than S3R even down low! (this was the run that I pulled fuel and got knock, so I put it back down) Look at this comparison:
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... and the top end is stellar on my buddis 240sx stock internal'd...
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