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05 srt no crank no start

19K views 75 replies 9 participants last post by  Slowryd 
#1 ·
if i let it sit for 10 minutes and try to start the car it will click once and all the lights will go off and if i try again nothing will come on and it wont crank i checked the battery cables and the grounds
 
#11 ·
nothing happenes
Starter.

You can also check this by push starting and popping the clutch. Get another Mopar starter.
 
#5 ·
You mentioned trying to jump start, but have you pulled the battery to have it load tested? Most auto part stores will do it for free. From the description that would be my first guess that an internal cell or cells have failed. If the battery is good and by lights you mean instrument panel and not interior dome lights, headlights, etc. there are some known problems with a rod that connect the actual ignition key lock cylinder to the ignition switch breaking (Dorman makes a replacement part better than OEM).

That's just guessing at a couple no crank, no start and dash light issues. To better assist diagnostics we'd need more detailed description of exactly what it's doing (which lights, what have you done/tested, does it eventually start back up again, etc.).
 
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#10 ·
literally nothing happens i get in the car turn they key (it doesn't spin like what happens when the rod for the ignition switch goes bad) and no lights come on the dash and it doesn't make a sound, but every once in a while when i turn the key once all the dash lights come on like they are supposed to but when i turn the key to try to start the car there is just one click and then all the lights go out and if i try again no lights will come on
 
#6 ·
the battery is new the volts is 12.9 how would i check the ignition switch but when i try to turn the key it acts like there is no battery in the car the dash lights used to come on when you turn the key once then when you try to start the car the it make one click and then all the lights go out and nothing works but now nothing is coming on at all
 
#13 ·
I would like to add to what has been said, that it seems to be pointing to the ignition switch being the culprit.
Since it is consistent and not intermittent at this point you should take at 12v test light and multimeter and check for power at the appropriate key positions on the steering column; Accessory, Run and Run/Start.
 
#16 ·
Also don't forget to inspect your wires. As much of them as you can. Check your connections at the starter as well. An old trick I used to use to tell if the starter was bad was taking a screw driver and touching it to the positive and negative on the starter together to see if it had power and would crank over. I'm just saying don't overlook the simple stuff.
 
#17 ·
To follow up, it does sound like the switch or something in that assembly if the dash lights don't even come on. Especially if it doesn't feel right when turning the key which is usually a sign the linkage piece between the lock cylinder and switch is broken if it suddenly changes and doesn't feel right. If you go to crank and it clicked that might be an internal short in the starter, but if the accessory and run position aren't getting power it's not as likely. Let us know what you find. The column covers are pretty easy to pull apart (the Dorman page I linked to earlier has a video that shows how to service the assembly). If not that, the battery is tested good, you'll likely need to start tracing the wiring harness.
 
#18 ·
i noticed when i was pulling the trans that i can turn the steering wheel while the keys were out of the ignition, its not the pin in the lock cylinder because it still clicks when you turn the key it doesn't spin freely so what does that sound like
 
#19 ·
If it's not locking then it's almost certainly in the ignition assembly. I took a quick look in the factory service manual (FSM) and it doesn't show where the locking mechanism is, but I thought it's in the lock cylinder or the shaft that connects to the switch, so likely one of those two.
 
#20 ·
ok sorry it took so long for an update i was installing the trans and didnt have a lot of time to replace the clutch fork and everything after work but i replaced the ignition switch and that didnt fix it. after i installed the ignition switch i put the key in the ignition all of the dash lights came on and i heard the fuel pump prime i turn the key to let it crank over and it made one click and everything lost power(which is the same thing it was doing). i tried to pull the key out and do it again and nothing will come on. i dont know if it has anything to do with it not starting but with the key out of the ignition i can turn the steering wheel without it locking
 
#21 ·
definitely the starter. The "losing power" is the starter drawing a load. Same thing happened a few months ago on my car at the gas station. Car had been slow to crank for the past few years, despite the battery being replaced twice. Try to jump it, no go. Push start it, drive to shop, have them replace the starter (no time to do it myself), starts up instantly now.
 
#24 ·
No sir. I'm going to kick myself if it might be something simple... Can you check the condition of the noise suppressor and the wire on the back right side of the block? If you remove your intake you can't miss it. Also check your ASD fuse.

I've had exactly what stowaway mentioned happened not too long ago and it was the starter also. Since then no issues after a mopar starter. It was very finicky right before it died.
 
#26 · (Edited)
i checked the asd fuse it was fine, the noise supressor was connected but the metal tab broke off and i dont see the wire behind the head i only saw the one under the intake manifold
That has to be connected to the block. The wire I'm describing connects directly to the noise suppressor.

This is how it should look installed on the block and this is the wire that connects to it. Either way you're noise suppressor needs to be replaced. Here's the oem name and part numbers: CAPACITOR. Ignition, Radio Noise Suppression.
Part Number: 04606866AA ; 04608359; 04608359AB; 04609133AA; 04793117



 
#28 ·
Check with your Dodge dealer to see if they have one, if not go to Napa. DO NOT get this from Autozone.
 
#37 ·
If you change the keys, instrument cluster, ECU/PCM or immobilizer module, or skim ariel you will have to reprogram everything. The gauge cluster, pcm, and skim module (key box&key) must all agree and have all the same vin programmed into them. If you have access to a drbIII (diagnostic tool) you can reprogram the VIN with the computer in the car if you wanted to.
The Key fob has nothing to do with the skim. the chip is in the key. Once the 'sentry' feature is activated on a ECU/PCM, it can not be 'de-activated', but it can be changed or made blank ready for a new car.

However if a car has had the immobilizer and the sentry system removed including the SKIM ariel around the barrel, and an uncoded ECU/PCM is fitted it will work without the need of a skim and the immobilizer or the need to be programmed regardless of staged or stock cluster, the TCU does not store any SKIM info, so you do not need to send it to be flashed or replaced
 
#38 ·
The cluster does not matter, I put Andrew's Keylock, Skim Module and PCM in Project Blue and it works fine, I used his Remote module too but only because I wanted to use his keys and remote fob.
I went through the whole security wiring and stuff while I was troubleshooting an issue I was having with my cluster would have the cluster go dead and the security light come on after connecting the battery. I don't know if it caused a starting/running issue as I use a standalone instead of the PCM to run the fuel and ignition, the cluster would go dead though but the lights and everything else would work. The SKIM can be disabled in the PCM but like Rob said you can send the PCM off to get the SKIM disabled internally. They do it all the time in the Neon/SRT4 swaps.
 
#40 ·
Another thing I learned about the ASD which I am not sure applies here, the PCM is funny about how it controls things Security wise when it comes to how and when the ASD relay gets power or not.
For instance to fix my issue I had to wire in the ASD relay to activate when I turn the key to Run, while keeping the 'safety' feature of the stock system shutting crap off in a catastrophic event. This is mostly because I reuse a lot of the stock wiring and relays for the Fans, Fuel, A/C, Ignition control etc. This means I have taken away the PCM control of some of those system where it provides the 'ground' for them.
 
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