I noticed that there wasn't much information in the detailing section on the site so I figured I would post up something I found very informative when detailing my car. I used to own a 07 Si and I am part of an online forum for the 8thgen civics. A user (NitrousG35) created this.
Here is also a usefull site that was mentioned (Thanks to memphiselitez)
Guide to Detailing - Autopia.org
Here are the steps involved:
1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Polish
4. Glaze
5. Seal
6. Wax
7. Top Coat
Washing: I use a 5 gallon pail with a grit guard. You can buy a 5 gallon pail at Wal-Mart and there are many detailing stores online that sell the grit guard. If my car is really dirty, I use a two bucket method where I wash the car, rinse the mitt in the 2nd bucket of clean water, then dip it into the wash bucket again.
The first thing is to do a thorough rinsing of the car with a hose. I go over the car completely and redo the panel I am about to wash.
Shampoo: There are many good products out there, but I like Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo. It has a good lather and really does a good job of washing the car, regardless of how dirty it is. Eagle One just came out with its Nano shampoo with wax. Very rich lather and wax protection built in. My Si looked so good after a washing.
Mitts: Get a good quality sheepskin or microfiber mitt. I have both, but have bought a couple of mf mitts that really do a great job of washing.
While washing, I rinse after I have done several panels so that the soap does not have a chance to dry. It is important to rinse well to not only remove the soap, but to help remove any residual dirt on the car.
Drying: I use large, waffle weave microfiber drying towels. I bought several at AutoZone, but have also bought some online from several companies. I also have some from Top of the Line Detailing. Meguiar's makes good drying towels too. I wipe carefully, not pushing down hard on the paint. I kind of lightly and delicately pull the towel over the surface. What you don't want to do is to push down hard or rub hard while wiping. I usually use 3 or 4 of these towels to dry the car. I also make sure to wipe down all door jams, the trunk and the hood.
When you get to the paint prep stage, you will need some good, quality microfiber detailing towels. I have quite a few in various sizes and thicknesses. I have bought Cobra towels as well as Chemical Guys for the really plush stuff. Griot's also sells great detailing mf towels. I also use Costco mf towels which are 36 for $14.99 for removing wax.
Claybar: I really like the Mother's claybar, but Meguiar's makes good stuff too. There are many other companies like Griot's that can be purchased online. For most cars, the regular grade clay is just fine. You can get professional grade clay that is more abrasive for those special jobs.
Your claybar will come with spray detailer. Spray a panel down with the detailer and then spray the clay. Rub the clay on the paint until the surface is smooth with your fingers. Buff out the panel and go on to the next panel.
When done, you will be ready to begin your paint surface preparation. It is not necessary to rewash after claying.
Now for the paint preparation. If your paint is really swirled or scratched, you will need to use some type of polish. I personally use a Porter Cable and have various pads depending on how much cutting action I want. I like Griot's polish #3 and #4 for my black G35, but use only #4 on my Si due to the thinness of the paint. Griot's sells hand polish as well. Meguiar's has a superb line of products also. I also have used 3M and Menzerna polishes.
Meguiar's sells a Deep Crystal polish for those who want to do it by hand and are worried about using a machine.
There is also a superb product by Meguiar's called Scratch X which removes fine scratches and swirls.
After polishing, if you have dark paint, I would highly recommend Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze. It is amazing stuff. I first learned about it from the legendary John Kosmosky, who owned House of Kolor. John painted a VW Scirocco I had in black polyurethane enamel. He told me to use #7 to keep that black paint always deep and shiny. You can use #7 on lighter paints, but you won't see the results that darket colors will give. #7 will add oil to the paint as well, giving it a wet look that is to die for.
Once the paint has been prepared and glazed, I then would recommend a good sealant. I have 3 that I use regularly: Jet Seal, Wolfgang Deep Gloss sealant and Natty's EXP sealant. If you want the best protection, go with Jet Seal. If you want the best shine, go with Wolfgang. Natty's also gives great shine and protection.
Once the sealant is on, now it is time for the wax. There are a myriad of great products out there, both carnauba and synthetic. You can also buy either liquid or paste wax. I use both carnauba and synthetic and also have both liquid and paste. I use liquid to go on and off easily and paste for a deeper, longer lasting shine.
Carnauba: Meguiar's Gold Class, Natty's Blue, Natty's Red, Mother's California Gold Carnauba, Griot's Best of Show carnauba, PS-21 and there are many more. I like carnauba for a show car shine, but not necessary durability.
Synthetic: I use Meguiar's NXT 2.0, Mother's Reflections' Top Coat wax. There is also the new Mother's Synwax. There are many other great products out there too. I like the synthetics for their durability and shine. Eagle One added its Nanowax technology. Works just as good as Meguiar's
Once you are done waxing, there is one more step you can do if your are extremely OCD and anal: You can use Mother's Reflection's Top Coat. This stuff is amazing and will not only protect your wax coat, but will greatly add to the gloss and shine.
The last thing you can do is detailing sprays. You can get both Spray wax and quick detailing spray. I use both. The Spray wax is great for a quick shine after a wash. I love Mother's Reflection's Spray wax and Meguiar's NXT. Mother's added a new product with its FX Spray wax. All go on and off easily. Eagle One has a new product that works really slick too.
Spray Wax:
Detailing Spray: Detailing sprays come in handy after washing your car and removing static from the paint. Carnauba wax is especially bad for attracting dust as is Meguiar's NXT synthetic wax.
I also use detailing spray after having detailed a car and taken a ride. Often, there is a light coating of dust. These sprays will help remove the dust and shine the paint again.
Detailing sprays are also handy for bugs on the front or bird poop or tree sap when you are away from home. I keep a bag in my car full of towels and detailing spray for emergencies. There are many great products but the best for me are Mother's detailing spray, Meguiar's Ultimate Detailer and Zaino spray detailer. Eagle One just added their product which works well too.
Hope this helps!
CLAYBAR TUTORIAL! *VIDEO*
Once again this was takin from my other forum I am a member on:
DISCLAIMER: I do not accept liability, nor shall 8thCivic.com - 8th Generation Civics, for any damages that may occur while claybarring your car. I cannot control what brand or claybar you use, what environment you are in, nor how you actually use the claybar system itself. Thus, use this video as a guideline only
DISCLAIMER: I do not accept liability, nore shall srtforums.com, for any damages that may occur while claybarring your car. I cannot control what brand or claybar you use, what environment you are in, nor how you actually use the claybar system itself. Thus, use this video as a guideline only
Image shows surface contamination which is difficult to clean or polish off, yet auto claybar removes it with ease.
What is a claybar?
A claybar is a synthetic piece of clay (some products are not synthetic, however) that is intended to remove contaminents and overspray that simple washing cannot. It is a vital step to provide the best finish and the results can be simply amazing.
Why should I use one?
Well, because I said so. If you're fussy like me, you want your investment to look like a million dollars, even after a few years. Claybar'n your car is the first step to provide the best possible finish. It is also necessary to claybar your car if you do NOT want swirls, spiderwebs, or scratches. Remember, if you wax your car without claybarring, you run the risk of having an ugly finish, and eventually having mad swirrels (as opposed to happy swirls). You also run the risk of rubbing in the dirt and grime into paint while waxing (or polishing) if you do not claybar. Remember, washing only removes the basic dirt and contaminents, no matter how much soap you use.
WHEN should I use one?
Do the touch test. After washing/drying your baby, run your fingers along the freshly washed surface. Do you feel grit? Does it feel rough? Do you like it rough? I don't think so. If it is NOT feeling glass-smooth, it's time to do a claybar treatment!
Can I use claybar on any surface other than paint?
Claybars isn't just for paint. You can use detailing clay on any smooth, hard surface, including glass and chrome. Do not use clay on clear plastic, such as headlight lenses. The dirty clay will not harm glass, and it's amazing how much dirt film clay can remove from your exterior glass. It can also be used on rims with accumulated brake dust. Claybasr are not recommended on wheels that do not have a factory clearcoat or powder coat finish. Check to see what your rims are before you do them
PROS
- It's easy to apply
- A necessary step to remove paint contaminents
- Provides the smoothest finish
CONS
- Expensive
- Can ruin your finish if done improperly (dirty claybar etc)
- Time consuming
VIDEO SUMMARY
Not only does the video demontrates basic claybarring techniques, It show's how to prep your surface BEFORE washing and where to degrease the car. It provided's how to properly CHAMOIS your car as well.
Father of all detailing threads
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