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Old 11-22-2005, 07:59 PM   #46 (permalink)
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try pissing on your car. i know it sounds far fetched, but sometimes i clean my car strictly with piss. just make sure that you rinse really well, or all the loose dogs in town will look at your car like a moving fire hydrant
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Old 01-31-2006, 04:27 PM   #47 (permalink)
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take it from from a detailer in a body shop, cheapest easiest way--glass cleaner with ammonia in it. the ammonia eats the wax right off. all the other stuff, wd-40, peanut butter(???) ect make your car dirty again, wd-40 puts silicone on your car and can possibly damage your finish
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Old 03-11-2006, 03:54 PM   #48 (permalink)
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the back to black works just fine for me!
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Old 04-06-2006, 07:39 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Those white residue problems are a thing of the past, if you have that problem rest assure you are using the wrong brand of wax.
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Old 04-06-2006, 07:54 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Turbo Wax
Those white residue problems are a thing of the past, if you have that problem rest assure you are using the wrong brand of wax.


Please elaborate...

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Old 04-06-2006, 08:44 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Some products have certain quality's in it that completely eliminate that problem, in fact you can go over and over on the trim and all you have to do is wipe it off, in addition.

Like anything else in the market place, all products seek their own level of justification based on the cost of producing the product and the quality of the ingredients in the product. some products were never intended to compete with the $3.99 products in the market simply because there is no comparison between the products, either in performance or quality of manufacture, however not all high end products are able to go over trim and leave zero residue.

A common characteristic of the lesser cost products in the market is the unusually high content of solvents in the product. High content solvent products will give a quick shine, that is true, but this will not last and through prolonged use of products like these will cause the paint to deteriorate and become dull on the surface.

Then after a while you will hear, that surface is so dull, I guess it needs to be buffed out. So, let's start out correctly by applying a coating to the surface that does what it is supposed to do and that is to protect the surface and give a long lasting shine.

Now if you have a product that performs very well, don't leave any white residue and protects you car finish,

Why will you want to use a product that you need to use another product to help the first product ?

It makes no sense, but since there's so many low quality products out there, some company's have found the need to make a product to address the problems of other products, prime example, white residue on trim.

Hope that helps
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Old 05-27-2006, 03:24 PM   #52 (permalink)
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any type of tar/wax remover should do it, careful with it though it can dull the rubber if you get too happy with it, if that does happen (or if you just wanna use it to make the rubber look better) meguiars vinyl/leather cleaner and conditioner 40 is awesome, wont leave black marks in your door jambs
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:56 AM   #53 (permalink)
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i got the fix lol a BIG BLACK SHARPIE PERMANENT MARKER LOL WORKS WONDERS!!!


i might try that wal mart stuff...
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Old 11-06-2006, 05:13 PM   #54 (permalink)
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windex
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Old 11-26-2006, 07:50 PM   #55 (permalink)
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i'm gonna have to go with the pencil eraser too. it does get eaten up pretty quick but it's cheap and it works.
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:01 PM   #56 (permalink)
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I found using dish detergent then after a good rince. to use some back to black. works like a charm.
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Old 09-01-2007, 12:03 AM   #57 (permalink)
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i know, i know, thread reserection FTW! but for the love of god people, stop spraying shitty cleaners, oils, and chemicals on your molding and mirrors....use a hard plastic bristol brush. the same texture as a hard tooth-brush but get a big one (chances are you probly have about 2 in your house for no reason) start rubbing and the dryed wax flakes off. after that, just wash the part off with soap and water.

did this to many cars, work amazing, fast , and free....one srt had the wax on the mirror for over a year and it fell right off....

or you can heat up peanut butter and spread it on while spraying a mixture of WD-40, back to black, armor-all, quick detailer, 303 areospace, windex, bug/tar remover, and palmolive dish soap, wipe that off and cover it all up with a big black permenant marker dipped in piss

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Old 09-20-2007, 08:08 PM   #58 (permalink)
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toothbrush and degreaser.
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:25 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Meguir's back to black is awesome but can stain your paint so be very careful and clean up any you get on the paint . I would not use dish soap or Simple Green on the trim . If it get's on the paint it will remove the wax you just put on . I use Meguir's natural shine rubber and vinyl protectant . I just wipe away the left over that get's on the paint with a clean terry cloth towel . Or the other stuff I use is Sprayway Instant shine . It's professional stuff that pro's can get from Pro auto care . It works awesome and last's for about 2 to 3 weeks even with a good washing . For the absolute best result when waxing your car use masking tape one the trim and any where else you don't want the wax to get to . Then you don't have to do any thing to get it off your car .....

BTW : If you get some extra wax in some tight spaces ( door jams, around the spoiler, Ect. ) use a 1" cheapy wood handle paint brush and cut the bristles off at about 1" at an angle and then wrap masking tape around the metal part of the brush to protect your paint from scratches . You can also use this brush to detail the interior of your car like the vent's and small cracks on the dash and door panels.
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Old 03-07-2008, 06:20 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Tuners View Post
a little rubbing alcohol to get it off, and some typr off a dash cleaner. like a champ.


rubbing alcohol didnt work for me.
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