Spring install no good..... - SRT Forums

allaboutboost · 06-23-2008, 07:09 PM

I have to give props to all of you who installed your lowering springs yourself. I have installed springs on two Hondas before, but this car didn't go quite as smooth. I tried both the safe way, and also the cheater method but to no prevail.

On the Hondas, I used a jack to decompress the strut assembley after removing the top strut bolt. The suspension on the SRT4 would not allow me to do this. The axle and lower control arm does not have enough movement for me to do this. So... I pulled out the entire strut assembley and used a spring compressor. For the life of me, I could not get the lock nut to break from the top strut bolt. Having to use the spark plug socket over an extension proved to be most frustrating due to it slipping off the nut. Did you guys loosen this while the assembley was still bolted on the car? That may have been a little easier than trying to do it on the ground.

For the guys who took it in to a shop, which brand name suspension shops would do this? I checked with a few local shops but they didn't want to do it unless I bought the springs from them?? (black mail runs rampid here in Cali). One shop quoted me $150. Seems a bit high to me. Thoughts? Input?

P.S.- I followed the "How to" and got stuck on the very first step for about an hour.... Damn Bud Light!

DJFahr11 · 06-23-2008, 07:38 PM

Break the nut loose while the assembly is still on the car and you'll be good to go.

allaboutboost · 06-23-2008, 09:46 PM

I knew it! Thanks for the tip. I will be picking up some more Bud Light this weekend (never like to skip a step) and try to tackle it one more time.

Did you pull the entire strut assembley out and compress with spring compressor or did you use a jack?

evo77 · 06-23-2008, 10:00 PM

Tip #1 (as already stated) break strut shaft nut while strut is still attached to body so that its easier to remove when the assembly is off the car.

Tip #2 Remove sway bar endlinks from control arm. This will allow you more play to swing the arm down while finessing the strut assembly IN and OUT.

Tip #3 Purchase a 21mm oxygen sensor socket. Much easier then the sparkplug socket and wrench combo.

my_little_srt · 06-24-2008, 01:54 AM

Ive used the old school method for the rear springs on a friends car.....With lowering and raising the strut with a jack.....But not the front...

card00d85 · 06-24-2008, 10:39 PM

I see you live in Turlock, as do I. If you need any help I will be glad to help. I've installed the eibach prokit on mine. I actually found it to be a lot easier than doing it on my old car (2000 celica gts).

I will be gone this weekend, but if you need help some other time just send me a PM.

allaboutboost · 06-28-2008, 12:11 PM

Thanks to all for great advice. Card, I sent you a PM. Thanks for the offer. I was a little hesitant about pulling off the tie rod arms due to maybe damaging the axle? I didn't realize the axle would have that much play. I did read that I could possibly blow a strut a few months down the road, but that's a chance I am willing to take to get this back end out of the air..Guys at work tease me saying it looks like my car wants to get raped from behind.. I would have to agree with them.

pazjust · 06-28-2008, 08:26 PM

I followed the how to and it went almost flawlessly. only tip I can give is when doing the fronts pop the abs sensor wire of the clip on the wheel well and move the lower end of the strut towards the rear to get them out with no issues. I got it done in a little over 4 hours by myself. might have been quicker but it was like 113 degrees outside.

**FamousTLB** · 06-29-2008, 10:58 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by allaboutboost

Having to use the spark plug socket over an extension proved to be most frustrating due to it slipping off the nut.

I couldn't really understand why anyone would want to go through the trouble of doing it that way so I pulled down the rubber sleeve on the strut and used locking pliers to grab the main shaft to keep it from moving and I didn't have any problems.

pazjust · 06-29-2008, 12:36 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by FamousTLB

I couldn't really understand why anyone would want to go through the trouble of doing it that way so I pulled down the rubber sleeve on the strut and used locking pliers to grab the main shaft to keep it from moving and I didn't have any problems.

I broke them loose while on the car. Instead of using a ratchet and crescent wrench. I used a closed end wrench and a breaker bar, came right off and went right back on without a struggle.

allaboutboost · 08-20-2008, 10:18 PM

Attempt #2 coming this weekend. Wish me luck. I'll post depending on how much I had to drink while installing.

my_little_srt · 08-21-2008, 07:05 AM

Good luck..........

BlackOhFour · 08-21-2008, 10:02 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by FamousTLB

I couldn't really understand why anyone would want to go through the trouble of doing it that way so I pulled down the rubber sleeve on the strut and used locking pliers to grab the main shaft to keep it from moving and I didn't have any problems.

Alot of people say doing that can damage the strut.

I def dont miss changing that shit around anymore(Coilovers now). I just used an impact gun in short bursts on the top nut and it came off with out to much of a fight

gt5oh · 08-21-2008, 11:16 AM

Heres a tip, while you have everything out

fill it with this stuff so you dont get a clunk noise

INFO: How to Fill the Rear Shock Towers to Prevent the "Clunk"

ENapa · 08-24-2008, 10:32 AM

Using the sparkplug socket with the 10mm socket underneath is so fucking easy that it is criminal. I have removed the springs off of at least 4 different SRTs and not once did I have any issues. The biggest tip I have is to make sure you disconnect the front sway bar when removing the strut assembly. That way you don't tear a hole in the axle boot. Plus having air tools makes everything way easier.