rear braking noise after drilled slotted rotors installed? - SRT Forums

letxen3 · 10-21-2009, 10:39 PM

i bought ebay drilled/ slotted rotors from company called Eagle Brakes out of California, and bought good quality semi metallic brake pads from advance auto parts.

When I brake from the rear right and left I hear what I can describe as putting a baseball card on bicycle spokes. Like a flapping air sound/ flickering.

After reading I found out that it matters how you install rotors depending on the veins inside the rotor. Turns out my mechanic did install the fronts correctly and I have no issue with the fronts anyways.

Quote:

How to properly install plain, slotted, or drilled brake rotors

But my rears were not correct, I didn’t think it matted since the rears rotors don’t have veins. So today I swapped the rotors from left to right hoping it would make the noise when braking go away, and it did not. I still get the same noise after swapping the rotors around

My mechanic thinks it’s the pads. But I’m now reading and it seems like it may be common noise with drilled rotors but I can not accept that. You should not be having any noise when braking. If so then I may have to put regular rotors in the rear.

should i try different pads like my mech. says. and if that dont work tehn change the rotors? i thinking of doing that to get to the cause of the noise when braking.

Rear:

Front:

COY · 10-21-2009, 10:50 PM

My theory is your car is rejecting the stupidity of drilled slotted rotors that are not cast that way.

Did you bleed the brakes? Compress piston when the new pads went on? Did you bed the new pads in? Did you mistakenly fuck with the ebrake adjustment?

mother of all questions, did you put the stock ones back on so you can eliminate most of the above and narrow it down to the stupid rotors?

letxen3 · 10-22-2009, 10:47 AM

this was done by my local mechanic who is ase certified etc.

The brakes were bleed and the e-brake was adjusted. Im sure he compressed the piston and did everything right.

i didnt have time to bed the brakes, i know he test drove it for about 4 miles i will have to ask if he did the bedding.

Sunofwolf · 10-22-2009, 11:33 AM

I did my back brakes, but put drilled only rotors on because i heard the pads don't work as well with slotted and drilled on the street. I don't know if drilled is also suppose to go in one way-my guess doesn't make much difference with drilled only-i get no brake noise.

stowaway · 10-22-2009, 12:13 PM

what you need to do is pull the pads and put a champfer on the front and back edges. The fronts have this from the factory on most pads but some aftermarket rear pads won't. You can do this with coarse sand paper on a block (put the pad in a vice) or with a grinder. This should eliminate noises as the edge hits the slots in the rotors.

letxen3 · 10-22-2009, 02:32 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by stowaway

what you need to do is pull the pads and put a champfer on the front and back edges. The fronts have this from the factory on most pads but some aftermarket rear pads won't. You can do this with coarse sand paper on a block (put the pad in a vice) or with a grinder. This should eliminate noises as the edge hits the slots in the rotors.

do you know this from experiance did you solve your problem by doing that? also do you have anypics?

i will pass this info on to my mech. thanks.

stowaway · 10-22-2009, 02:48 PM

I personally don't have experience with it because I always run full solid rotors, not slotted or drilled. I have heard it a good bit before and I have to think a lot of pads are designed with the taper for a reason, including our OE front pads (can't remember what the rears look like off-hand). I have had weird brake groan on another vehicle that could partially be attributed to the edge of the pad grabbing and releasing unevenly. A taper would have cured it.