Problems with destroying suspension components after track days
It's getting to the point that I'm breaking or tearing up suspension components just about every lapping day or auto x event.
Just this year alone in 3 events I've completely shreaded a front horizontal control arm bushing (Energy suspension btw), I ripped an outer cv boot, broke one of the ABS ground wires in half, had a fresh alignment go all out of wack, and a wheel bearing.
Is this common to have so much going wrong from 2 auto x events and a lapping day? All of my suspension/handling mods are in sig besides the Toyo Proxies R compounds that I run at the tracks.
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Mopar Stage 3R w Toys 388.8 WHP 425.5 WTQ
Mopar CAI,Mopar BOV,S3 C/O's,AGP S3 WGA
SBC 5X,TC BFMIC / t bolt clamps, 55 mm TB, Maxxfab 3" o2,3" catless DP,Injen 3" catback, FBM intake mani
NGK 4306 @ .033, Devils Own W/I w controller
UEGO, Greddy TT, Ultra Lite II 30/30,Scan Gauge
DC Sports STB, MM inserts, Boomba trans mount
LCA, strut tension, Booger bushings,CV,18" Konig's,TCS, D/S Rotors
It's getting to the point that I'm breaking or tearing up suspension components just about every lapping day or auto x event.
Just this year alone in 3 events I've completely shreaded a front horizontal control arm bushing (Energy suspension btw), I ripped an outer cv boot, broke one of the ABS ground wires in half, had a fresh alignment go all out of wack, and a wheel bearing.
Is this common to have so much going wrong from 2 auto x events and a lapping day? All of my suspension/handling mods are in sig besides the Toyo Proxies R compounds that I run at the tracks.
Well the abs wire and alignment we not the "tracks" fault. The only way the ABS wire gets damaged is if it is loose and the same for the alignment, they obviously left something loose causing your "out of whack" situation.
The bearing are wear items that I replace twice a year (about every 6-8 track weekends) and the outer boot is an issue I was given the miracle cure for. I could tell you, but then I'd have to kill you! (send me a PM :wink
Oh yeah....those bushings are crap...get the solid metal ones from Rage-Tek!
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If you buy a new boot (too damn expensive for a boot but cheaper than an axle) it comes with everything you need to install it (boot, grease, two clamps, instructions...) but before you clamp down the inner edge of the outer boot (skinny end) slide a WD-40 straw into the gap between the boot and the axle shaft. Clamp it down tight and trim the edge flush with the boot with a razor. The straw will only need to be about 2" long.
It gives just enough pressure relief to keep the boot from blowing up like a balloon when the grease gets uber hot from running at high speeds.
Ta-Da.....
I blew up 3 boots in 2 days before learning this trick!
If you are nervous about cutting the clamp when you squeeze it, then you can file the "cutter" to dull it a bit before you proceed. I didn't (dull it) and had no problems!
I can't remember, but I may have needed to use my snap ring pliers too...but don't recall since it has been about 9 months ago!
Replacing the boot is extremely easy just a tad messy. That pliers that 1lap listed is what I use also to clamp the clamps. For the inner you will need a way to remove a circlip. I use two screwdrivers and pry it off. If you want to remove the outer boot quickly you just tap the edge of the round knuckle away from the shaft and it pops off. That is it for tools and it is really that easy.
that little straw trick sounds pretty cool. how do the solid bushings ride? it was a night and day difference going to energy bushings from stock, but how are the solid metal ones. major vibrations?
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Quote: Originally Posted by unnecessary
Son Of A Bitch!@#!#@@#! You made me hit my Knee on the desk!
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Problems with destroying suspension components after track days
"Scoff not at my vile remarks horny fiend" 
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