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Old 12-09-2012, 08:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default LCA Help

So I am getting some wheel hop so I figured I would either buy some LCA bushings or all new LCAs completely since my car has quite a few miles and as far as I know they have never been changed. I have a question though regarding the MPx prices. I was just wondering why it costs $120 for brand new LCAs without bushings. $35 for the bushings seperate. But if you buy the bushings already installed on the LCAs it jumps up to $335. Am I missing something or couldnt you simply buy the LCAs and bushings seperate then just install the bushings on the LCAs yourself? Sorry if this is a dumb question but if someone could clarify that, that would be great.
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Im with you on needing some new LCA bushings. Looks like the 120 is for EITHIER the left or right LCA with a stock bushing installed. So 120+120+35=275. So looks like they are charging about 60 dollars to install the upgraded bushings into new LCAs.

Me personally I am just going to buy the bushings and install them myself. Looks like a pain in the ass but I am not paying a shop several hundred dollars to install 35 dollars worth of parts!
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Moyeah View Post
Im with you on needing some new LCA bushings. Looks like the 120 is for EITHIER the left or right LCA with a stock bushing installed. So 120+120+35=275. So looks like they are charging about 60 dollars to install the upgraded bushings into new LCAs.

Me personally I am just going to buy the bushings and install them myself. Looks like a pain in the ass but I am not paying a shop several hundred dollars to install 35 dollars worth of parts!

Hmm..I guess I should read more closely
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Photos and HD video to the rescue

Flame red - myself and others have posted video and fotos as "how-to" on the front c-arm bushings install with OEM arms.
The photos are for saving your hard-earned burger flipping paycheck dollars.
Just order the prothane bushings and DIY. Or if you prefer the Energy Suspenions bushings.

The c-arms from modern have had their detractors.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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No reason to buy new LCA's unless your current ones are damaged/bent. Just pop in the new bushings (I make that sound easy right?) and you're all set.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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alright thanks for the tips guys. Valley I will definately be checking those videos out when I do the install. Probably won't be until summer since I don't have a garage to work in so I have to do it outside. Just noticed as well that you have to remove the lower motor mount when doing this install. Im guessing it would be a good time to install a solid one (or inserts) once I have that one out?
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yea wouldn't be a bad idea for soild mounts. I did my Lca bushings by my self it took like 2 hours to do the first one cause I didn't read the how to. After that pain I read it and it took like 20 mins for the other side.
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by triangles View Post
Yea wouldn't be a bad idea for soild mounts. I did my Lca bushings by my self it took like 2 hours to do the first one cause I didn't read the how to. After that pain I read it and it took like 20 mins for the other side.

Wow 20 minutes! I am hoping to get these things installed within 24 hours let alone 1 hour!
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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You will be able to do it in a day for sure even taking a couple breaks and a trip to the beer store
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:56 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Do it NOW in the nice Pennsylvania mild winter!

Quote: Originally Posted by Flame Red View Post
alright thanks for the tips guys. Valley I will definately be checking those videos out when I do the install. Probably won't be until summer since I don't have a garage to work in so I have to do it outside. Just noticed as well that you have to remove the lower motor mount when doing this install. Im guessing it would be a good time to install a solid one (or inserts) once I have that one out?

The main "thing" is the extraction of the rear most bushing. YOu'll want a hydraulic press or you'll go nutty. Get this organized well ahead of time somehow.

SRT4 Front c-arm OEM bushing removal - YouTube


Pre-trim the smaller OEM phukked up overhang rubber and then it comes right out



Bend this tab down slightly to remove



And other than that, there is nothing intrinsically difficult or insurmountable about the bushing swap. I uploaded the PDF instructions somewhere on this site
Be prepared to re-attach to the steering knuckle - get familiar with how to.

I encourage you do go outside in January in Pennsylvania and have an afternoon project in the warm sun and mild temperatures.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:31 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by ValleyRacer View Post
The main "thing" is the extraction of the rear most bushing. YOu'll want a hydraulic press or you'll go nutty. Get this organized well ahead of time somehow.

SRT4 Front c-arm OEM bushing removal - YouTube

SRT4 control arm - YouTube

Pre-trim the smaller OEM phukked up overhang rubber and then it comes right out



Bend this tab down slightly to remove



And other than that, there is nothing intrinsically difficult or insurmountable about the bushing swap. I uploaded the PDF instructions somewhere on this site
Be prepared to re-attach to the steering knuckle - get familiar with how to.

I encourage you do go outside in January in Pennsylvania and have an afternoon project in the warm sun and mild temperatures.

Thanks for info saves me some time searching! And I may just have to do that with this unusually warm weather we have been having.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:10 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Salty, rusty or cold snowy climates

Also Flamered as we noticed from another board member, he got screwed with the rusty broken bolt. I suspect it to be the bolt in this photo. So if you are a great lakes person or Atlantic ocean salty air or near rusty snowed over salty roads, this might be the time to get a can of PB Blaster and get every bolt all pre lubed and such. Then completely grease your bolts as you reassemble the c-arms.
Things don't rust where I live they MELT in the summer heat.

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Old 12-10-2012, 12:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by ValleyRacer View Post
Also Flamered as we noticed from another board member, he got screwed with the rusty broken bolt. I suspect it to be the bolt in this photo. So if you are a great lakes person or Atlantic ocean salty air or near rusty snowed over salty roads, this might be the time to get a can of PB Blaster and get every bolt all pre lubed and such. Then completely grease your bolts as you reassemble the c-arms.
Things don't rust where I live they MELT in the summer heat.


I guess you can't win no matter where you live. Yeah I was just reading about that too though and I myself don't live very close to either of those however a majority of the cars life was in Michigan near the great lakes, so I should definitely pick up some as a precaution!
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It was 20 mins to get bushings out and back in. The second time. To install lca was more time. To get them out I used a bench vice and hit the bushings out. And just took my oxygen and actyline and burned them off once out
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:48 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Default Prevents headaches

Quote: Originally Posted by Flame Red View Post
I guess you can't win no matter where you live. Yeah I was just reading about that too though and I myself don't live very close to either of those however a majority of the cars life was in Michigan near the great lakes, so I should definitely pick up some as a precaution!

For a few dollars to spray the PB Blaster on, it beats having broken bolts. Then if you change your rear c-arms, you could prevent broken or stuck bolts with the PB Blaster.
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