Koni Inserts + Ground Control - Page 2 - Dodge SRT Forum
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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-26-2012, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Yea after reading through some threads I seen that.
Stock is 20mm and the Koni's are 22mm.
I'm going to give them a call tomorrow and get this situated and get some ordered
And if not, I'll just order them and take them to a lathe.
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 09:18 AM
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Working with GC is like having a crazy girlfriend, you have to lie constantly. Dont tell them what you are doing, where you are doing it, or, who you are doing it with. Just tell them what you want and when they finally shut the hell up its pretty good

Just order the standard kit and drill the rear mounts out to 13/16" IIRC
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bone-yard-racing View Post
Working with GC is like having a crazy girlfriend, you have to lie constantly. Dont tell them what you are doing, where you are doing it, or, who you are doing it with. Just tell them what you want and when they finally shut the hell up its pretty good

Just order the standard kit and drill the rear mounts out to 13/16" IIRC
That's what I did. Didn't feel like explaining what I needed when it shouldn't take that long to do myself. I'm going to end up measuring them just to make sure, but I've read they are 22mm.

Edit:
I got another email back from Ground Control:
Aaron,

I wish I had a better answer, but GC as a company have decided to not do
a kit for the Koni on a SRT4. This again is because of the inconsistencies
in damper bodies. On some of the dampers the bodies taper from top to
bottom (larger at the top). In fact Chrysler had their version of Konis
and then Koni produced their version also, which are different from one
another. The OP for the thread you sent me was actually correct in
saying...
"I suspect it may have something to do with the fact that the Konis are
made to deform the top of the strut tube when fully inserted.". This does
not allow our red tubes to fit properly around the strut. The other
statements made regarding the ID of the top hat is false. If all it took
to make these work with the Konis was to open up the ID of the tophat then
we would do just that, but in fact thats the easy part. The taper causes
the main issue.

Again I wish I could sell you a kit but in good faith I don't want to
just sell you something to sell you something. To give you an idea we
havn't sold a kit to fit the SRT4 w/Koni since january.

Again I wish I could help,

Adam

I went ahead and ordered them anyways and will be drilling the rear mounts out.

Last edited by SRT4-Aaron; 09-27-2012 at 01:11 PM.
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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 09:23 PM
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I was January lol.

I used Illuminas modified in the following ways

1. Removed factory spring perches. I welded a bead where I wanted the sleeve to sit. Be sure to use some rubber here as mine rattle and clang constantly. No biggie on a race car super annoying when I drive her on the street.

2. I dropped the insert in the body. Bore the mounting hole for the insert to the size of the nipple then weld an aproximately 1.5" spacer to the bottom of the body. This drops the insert to make more use of the suspension travel

3. Bore the upper mounts to the Inch equivalent of 22mm in the rear.

If you need help with the install or machine work feel free to call me at the shop 717-968-6083 Im here everyday making neons turn!
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bone-yard-racing View Post
I was January lol.

I used Illuminas modified in the following ways

1. Removed factory spring perches. I welded a bead where I wanted the sleeve to sit. Be sure to use some rubber here as mine rattle and clang constantly. No biggie on a race car super annoying when I drive her on the street.

2. I dropped the insert in the body. Bore the mounting hole for the insert to the size of the nipple then weld an aproximately 1.5" spacer to the bottom of the body. This drops the insert to make more use of the suspension travel

3. Bore the upper mounts to the Inch equivalent of 22mm in the rear.

If you need help with the install or machine work feel free to call me at the shop 717-968-6083 Im here everyday making neons turn!
I'm gonna need a pic of this! And your not rubbing the axle with the extended drop?

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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 07:34 PM
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Ill get a pic next time I take it apart. The fronts arent as long as the rears maybe only 3/4" Havent made contact with the axle using Empi(rock auto) axles
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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-30-2012, 11:41 AM
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Here is my modified rear body and my mad tight not in any way Grand-Am cup spec shock assembly stand

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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-30-2012, 12:23 PM
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Very nice! So the black burnt tip is what you modified to gain extra bump travel?

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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-30-2012, 03:40 PM
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Yep its not a great pic but more or less if you think about it installing the insert per Koni's instruction gets you the height of the mounting nipple inside the body raising the shock and lessening travel. My way mounts the bottom of the shock body in the bottom of the housing like the OE Illumina inserts were.
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-05-2012, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got my Koni's, Ground Controls, and shorter end links.
Asked for 350/300 and received 375/300, not that big of a deal though.
I'm hoping to install these tomorrow.
Will post pictures (more than likely will be doing a photoshoot) when everything is installed
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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 10:12 AM
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Want to know if the GC's worked with the konis? Pics! I have konis now on sportlines and the konis helped a bit, but I think my problem is just these awful springs.

DSP, Meth injection, Agp wastegate
BC stage 2 cams, springs and retainers
Fidanza adjustable cam gears, AEM short ram intake
MPX big front mount intercooler
Sportline springs, Koni Struts
Turbo xs rfl blow off valve, Agp hard pipes
MPX 3" single exit exhaust with cat and muffler
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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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GC's do work with the Konis. Like stated above, you need the rears drilled out to 22mms to fit around the Konis. Nothing needs to be done for the fronts.
What kind of pictures are you looking for?

Also, after installing these, I now have a squeak coming from only the right rear. Sounds like metal on metal and I'm not really sure what it could be. Everything was done the exact same on all four so I'm not sure why it's just the right rear that squeaks.
I did notice after looking underneath the car that the sway bar endlink sits really close to the strut housing, so I'm thinking that this is the cause of the squeak?
How close is the rear endlinks supposed to be from the strut housing? I don't remember them being this close.
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 10:12 AM
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I too have a right rear squeak/creak after installing stage 3 CO's this past weekend. Not sure if it's metal on metal. My instinct says more like a plastic/rubber sound but I wonder if we've got the same thing.

We already have enough youth, how about a fountain of smart?
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Yea I have no idea. After looking at it it's nothing to do with the sway bar end links. It sounds like it is coming more from up top. Ill look into it next year when the car comes back out.
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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 10:33 AM
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mileage+time=killed upper strut mounts.










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