any ideas on when IPP changed their spring rates? i have their stage 2 coilovers and am looking into changing the springs on them.
Good idea... The stocker are to soft anyway especialy on the back! Put the 258lbs stocker front on the back and buy a pairs of 345lbs for the front... This is a nice set-up for the track and daily friendly on the street at low cost!
are you saying i should swap springs on the stock struts?
You talk about getting the Mopar S2 coilover who come with 258lbs front and 171lbs rear... You just swap the 258lbs to the rear and buy a set of 345lbs for the front! I think it's the best set-up for the S2, because it's a non-adjustable damper so keep in mind you cannot play with the damping to go little bit softer in this case like the S3 coilover who is single adjustable damper so be very conservative in your spring-rate choice...
The S3 coilover is arround $300 more, but offer you a single adjustable damper like I already said... That option give you more little bit room to play with your spring-rate! The best set-up for the track with the S3 is 402lbs front and 287lbs rear, but I don't suggest you to go higher than that if it's a daily driver... It's only a single not a double ajustable damper like the road racer S3R! You can do the same set-up like the S2 also I just mention, 345lbs front and 258lbs rear and buy only one pairs of 345lbs for the front... It's a better daily friendly on the street too!
The best spring upgrade for the stocker is probably the Hotchkis 230lbs front and 200lbs rear... It's nice low cost set-up who make a huge difference compare to the stock spring!
I hope it's gone help you... Have a good day my friend!
i was actullay refering to IPP's stage 2 (which I own) and stage 3 (which has a newer spring rate). but i like your suggestions i may be able to apply them to my CO's. Now if I could just get my rear driver CO un frozen. The sleeve is rusted to the strut body.
Should list which offer pillowball mounts with Camber plates too. Good info there.
Also, a poll to which coilovers are the absolute best for the car. Best mix between Street/Strip/Road Course driving. Which one handles these three factors the best.
Should list which offer pillowball mounts with Camber plates too. Good info there.
Also, a poll to which coilovers are the absolute best for the car. Best mix between Street/Strip/Road Course driving. Which one handles these three factors the best.
Listing camber plates is not a bad idea, I'll see what I can do.
I would recommend making another thread with a poll discussing that above question. I'm trying to keep this thread as a simple way for members to find some basic specs on all the different coilovers available for our cars.
Do you recommend a book or site that will give you the "low down" on how coilovers work? How to work them? I know it sounds easy but a good overview would be great.
There's not much to it, really. And different designs can make adjusting one style completely different than adjusting another style. Coilovers work just like normal struts and/or shocks do. They just usually offer more adjustability in damping rates and the ability to change spring rates and vehicle ride height.
this's an AWESOME thread - I wondered what my spring rate was!! I tell ya someth'n else I'd love to have on here: camber adjustments and how they affect tire wear, performance, etc....etc. THAT'D be awesome!!!
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Camber does not affect tire wear by itself, unless you are over -3°. The increased tire wear usually comes from having the toe out of spec. This causes the tire to basically drag across the road as you drive along. More negative camber helps make the load go across the tread evenly when cornering, but in a straight line this puts less rubber on the road, hurting straight line grip. Your camber and toe change as your suspension travels up and down. This means that as you launch you lose negative camber and the toe changes. If you are only intersted in straight line performance you would want to actually jack the front of the car up a tad when on the alignment rack to simulate the weight transfer when launching and make it basically 0° camber and 0 toe. If you are interested in better handling you will want a completely different alignment setting and even then your best alignment setting will be different if you do road course stuff or autocrossing. Autocross alignments can get away with a very unstable back end, which is not something you'd want when going 120+ on a road course.
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