How often are tires that are brand new out of round (Toyo prox 4)?
Aftermarket-spec tires are usually sloppy for road force variation, conicity, and other parameters that OEM's hold the tire companies to on the OE tires.
For example, the tires that fall just out of the tight OE-specs but within a very loose 'acceptable' spec are sold in the aftermarket as replacement tires.
So, to answer your question..... More often than not, aftermarket tires are basically 'seconds' from prouction and while they are completely safe and durable, might have a shimmy or pull due to out-of-roundness or conicity respectively.
Some tire outlets like TireRack offer OEM-spec tires. These might be a little more expensive, but they are the exact engineered compound, tread design, and construction of the OEM tire and fall within the specs of the OEM tire.
such a TSB should get "the man" to allow me to grind some. I'm not going to worry too much about it because I am hopefully getting stage 3 coilovers in the next couple of months and unless I see some serious changes to the way the "local" club runs the events and hopefully finds a better venue, I'm going to stop autocrossing for the time being. The old airfield that is used is just over 2hrs away and the longest course they have set us is a 45sec. one where you run two laps around it. average is about 40 seconds for quick street cars with good drivers. Hell, our last event in the fall had FTD at a 29.XXX RAW time, not PAX. I'm not keen on driving two hours each way to do less than 4 minutes of behind the seat time, I'll save up some money and go do a weekend at a race track where I can get a few hours.
such a TSB should get "the man" to allow me to grind some. I'm not going to worry too much about it because I am hopefully getting stage 3 coilovers in the next couple of months and unless I see some serious changes to the way the "local" club runs the events and hopefully finds a better venue, I'm going to stop autocrossing for the time being. The old airfield that is used is just over 2hrs away and the longest course they have set us is a 45sec. one where you run two laps around it. average is about 40 seconds for quick street cars with good drivers. Hell, our last event in the fall had FTD at a 29.XXX RAW time, not PAX. I'm not keen on driving two hours each way to do less than 4 minutes of behind the seat time, I'll save up some money and go do a weekend at a race track where I can get a few hours.
NOW you're talking, stowaway....
A/X is a great entry level racing venue, but to me it's worth $200/track day where I'll get 4 hours of track time ($0.83/min) and not have to pick up cones for 6 hours and only drive 4 minutes for $20 ($5/min).... I definitely would not drive more than 30 minutes to an A/X (if I even went in the first place).... I would gladly drive 2 hours to a track day....
closest road course is VIR at 5-6 hrs. CMP is 7-8 hrs, Roebling Road at 9-10. there are downsides to living on an island sticking out here in the ocean. Time will come when I can take a week off at a time to visit these tracks and have some fun taking back roads the entire way back. I guess doing Skip Barber at 16 out at Laguna Seca spoiled me some.
Ok, thread revival time but I want to put in my #s after trying to get my alignment at firestone and see what everyone thinks. My fronts had slight postive camber around +.1-.2 in the fronts. So I wasn't too concerned since thats pretty damn close to 0. But my rears definitely had negative camber. The guy keep insisting I hit something and I need crash bolts to correct it. The bill? $175.00 for parts and labor. I said screw that. My rear left had -1.1 and my rear right had -.5 I am convinced that stock srt from the factory have negative camber in the rears. Any input?
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I am starting to freak out about how many people on this board are grammatically challenged. Write some half decent sentences so people don't need to spend more time finding out what you're saying.
Yup. When I got my first alignment done, the tech said I had positive up front, and negative in the rear. Get the bolts, around $40 for 2 sets. If you want any kind of real camber you'll need to slot the struts or buy plates. I think you can get 4 sets of crash bolts and put them top on the struts, top and bottom.
Ok, thread revival time but I want to put in my #s after trying to get my alignment at firestone and see what everyone thinks. My fronts had slight postive camber around +.1-.2 in the fronts. So I wasn't too concerned since thats pretty damn close to 0. But my rears definitely had negative camber. The guy keep insisting I hit something and I need crash bolts to correct it. The bill? $175.00 for parts and labor. I said screw that. My rear left had -1.1 and my rear right had -.5 I am convinced that stock srt from the factory have negative camber in the rears. Any input?
So can you give a recommended alignment spec for mild use and good wear. I have just put a set of 19's on and I am more concerned with wear and good tracking than with hardcore cornering. I have the stage 2 coilovers. Currently with 225 wifht G-forces the car tracks funny and seems to be all over the road pikcing up and road imperfections.
Thanks Dr. Who
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So can you give a recommended alignment spec for mild use and good wear. I have just put a set of 19's on and I am more concerned with wear and good tracking than with hardcore cornering. I have the stage 2 coilovers. Currently with 225 wifht G-forces the car tracks funny and seems to be all over the road pikcing up and road imperfections.
Thanks Dr. Who
What aspect ratio tire are you running ? What is the width of your wheel ? What offset wheel ?
If you have 35 or 40 aspect ratio tires, you can attribute ALL of your road noise, harshness and funny handling to the tires - assuming you haven't fiddled with the alignment at the same time.
If the offset of the wheel is much less than 40mm, then you will ALSO have issues.... I have posted the effects and description of offset and scrub radius here... You should be able to find it with a search.
If you aren't concerned with cornering, then use the stock specs... If you are autocrossing or road racing (doubt since you are rollin' 19's) then you might want more negative front camber - up to 2.5 degrees for insane road course duty, less for the faint at heart .
Thanks for the prompt reply. My current setup is a 19x8 wheel with a 40mm offset. I am running a 225-35-19 tire.
Edit: I also read your posts regarding scrub radius. It now makes sense as to why my car is so sensitive to road imperfections. They should sticky threads like that. That's the technical info that makes these forums valuable.
I have a thought though. Wouldn't wheel width make a difference also, not just wheel offset? For example the wheels I just replaced was a 17" wheel with a 45mm offset and 7.5" width and they still drove the same.
My car had nasty positive Camber on the front from the factory, didn't notice it until after my 1500 mile drive to Florida, tires were bald on the outside edges only 8700 miles on the car... Alignment was fixed under warranty but tires weren't so they are now on the rear, until I can afford some new tires, or they go bald on the rest of the tire.
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1999 Dark Bronzemist Metallic Grand Prix GTP Sedan, Sunroof, Leather, HUD,DHP 1.0, R-T Downpipe, FWI, 3.4" Pulley. Not as fast as the SRT but very quick.. And I have Power REAR windows, and CRUISE CONTROL!!!!!!!
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Time will come when I can take a week off at a time to visit these tracks and have some fun taking back roads the entire way back. I guess doing Skip Barber at 16 out at Laguna Seca spoiled me some.
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