Unlike the stock struts, there is no hex stud to hold/turn the shaft while tightening the nut. I tried using my impact but you can see it's still not bottoming out the threads on the shaft.
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Mopar Stage 3R w Toys 388.8 WHP 425.5 WTQ
Mopar CAI,Mopar BOV,S3 C/O's,AGP S3 WGA
SBC 5X,TC BFMIC / t bolt clamps, 55 mm TB, Maxxfab 3" o2,3" catless DP,Injen 3" catback, FBM intake mani
NGK 4306 @ .033, Devils Own W/I w controller
UEGO, Greddy TT, Ultra Lite II 30/30,Scan Gauge
DC Sports STB, MM inserts, Boomba trans mount
LCA, strut tension, Booger bushings,CV,18" Konig's,TCS, D/S Rotors
you need to use a vice grip on the shaft but make sure you keep either a shop rag or a piece of rubber between the teeth on the vice grip and the shaft. you don't want to damage the shaft but you need some way to keep it from turning.
Vice grips and a piece of hose worked very well for me. Really try to keep the spinning of the coilover shaft to a minimum, otherwise you can damage the internal seals.
I used the 7/8's open sided socket ( third item from the left) and used a 10mm wrench to grab the top of the coilover and make sure the nut was tight. Worked like a charm.
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turbojack that first tool you listed... I don't think it would work. The S3 c/o's do not have a normal hex pattern on the tip of the strut shaft. Rather its a round shaft with flats on each side. When I do normal struts like the stockers. I use a spark 3/8" drive spark plug socket (the kind that has a spot to use a wrench on the outside also) and a 1/4" drive socket, with a 1/4" drive extention going through the square drive hole on the spark plug socket. Then hold the spark plug socket on the external hex flats, while using a 1/4" rachet to turn the bolts on the strut shaft.
For the S3 coilovers I just use the rubber from the strap wrench and put a vise grip over that. Worked like a charm.
Last edited by Pimpazzberetta : 06-23-2008 at 12:02 PM.
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