You guys make a simple process waaaayy complicated.
Four jack stands.
Four drain buckets.
One bleeder wrench.
Couple qts of fluid. (your brand)
(cold beer optional)
Put it on stands, pull the wheels, place the buckets under the calipers, open bleeders, top off reservoir (drink beer) replenish fluid on a regular basis, when clear flowing close bleeders, rinse with water, replace wheels, lower car.
The bleeding sequence in the factory service manual goes left rear, right front, right rear, left front. I used a motive products power bleeder to run 1/2 gallon of fluid through the system in about 30 minutes in the above sequence.
The bleeding sequence in the factory service manual goes left rear, right front, right rear, left front. I used a motive products power bleeder to run 1/2 gallon of fluid through the system in about 30 minutes in the above sequence.
If by chance one were starting bone dry. But for a bleed, flush or just replacing fluid it's irrelevant unless you induce air in the mc by not keeping it topped up.
If by chance one were starting bone dry. But for a bleed, flush or just replacing fluid it's irrelevant unless you induce air in the mc by not keeping it topped up.
A half a gallon of fluid? Holly cow man, why?
The guy asked for a sequence, why not use the one in the manual? Who knows, it might come in handy one day... As for the half gallon of fluid, That's how much was in the bottle I opened and it all fits into the power bleeder. Might as well flush the system with it, left over fluid gets dumped anyway. That and I got carried away with the new bleeder.
never bled the brakes before, only changed the pads. how do you bleed our cars? (minus the aforementioned clear fluid since i've already read that now)
The only time you need to bleed the brakes is if air has got into the system.
Have you opened the system(changed wheel cylinder, master cylinder, brake line)? If not, there is no reason to bleed the brakes.
But as SRT's have ABS, the correct way is to have a shop with a DRBIII tool so as to proceed appropriately. If you wish to do a Manual Bleed then
the sequence on SRT4's is:
Left rear wheel
Right front wheel
Right rear wheel
Left front wheel
Now the rest...
Start the car, you need the Power Brakes to work easily!
MANUAL BLEEDING
NOTE: To bleed the brakes manually, the aid of a helper will be required.
(1) Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw and feed the hose into a clear jar containing enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose
(2) Have a helper pump the brake pedal three or four times and hold it in the down position.
(3) With the pedal in the down position, open the bleeder screw at least 1 full turn.
(4) Once the brake pedal has dropped, close the bleeder screw. After the bleeder screw is closed, release the brake pedal.
(5) Repeat the above steps until all trapped air is removed from that wheel circuit (usually four or five times).
(6) Bleed the remaining wheel circuits in the same manner until all air is removed from the brake system. Monitor the fluid level in the master cylinder
reservoir to make sure it does not go dry.
(7) Check the brake pedal travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not been improved, some air may still be trapped in the system. Rebleed the brakes as
necessary.
(8) Test drive the vehicle to verify the brakes are operating properly and pedal feel is correct.
You guys make a simple process waaaayy complicated.
Four jack stands.
Four drain buckets.
One bleeder wrench.
Couple qts of fluid. (your brand)
(cold beer optional)
Put it on stands, pull the wheels, place the buckets under the calipers, open bleeders, top off reservoir (drink beer) replenish fluid on a regular basis, when clear flowing close bleeders, rinse with water, replace wheels, lower car.
No pedal work required.
WOW...This is not the way to bleed the brakes ever!
Not only is it not the proper procedure, but a real hassle to do.
4 jack stands, pull the wheels off, buckets under each wheel,
a mess possibly to boot! I don't believe that someone with a bit
automotive know how would suggest this method!!!
The following wheel circuit sequence for bleeding the brake hydraulic
system should be used to ensure adequate removal of all trapped air
from the hydraulic system.
Left rear wheel
Right front wheel
Right rear wheel
Left front wheel
WOW...This is not the way to bleed the brakes ever!
Not only is it not the proper procedure, but a real hassle to do.
4 jack stands, pull the wheels off, buckets under each wheel,
a mess possibly to boot! I don't believe that someone with a bit
automotive know how would suggest this method!!!
LOL! Yea I'm a newbie at it so I just kinda took a swing at this one.
I confess that I don't really do this. I only have two jack stands and two buckets. So I can only do one end at a time. Usually when I've installed a new brake system. And most of the time totally solo.
You guys need to get past this book material some and understand that the intent of that info it based upon cycling the ABS system which is completely unnecessary when you flush or bleed brakes- unless you're foolish enough to let the mc gurgle dry....more people get in trouble with all the pedal pumping and that's where the air is induced. All that pumping is doing is accelerating the rate the fluid is passing though the hose- think about it; nothing more. It's not a magic bleed, it's just pressurized fluid. Same as suction and pressure tools- all they do is force fluid faster (which by itself it potentially a huge problem for aeration issues, dont' believe me? Ask your fell 'big name' bbk supplier what their take is on it) For those who like color changes in fluid (a valid idea) it's a no brainer to open any caliper nipple and watch the color change as you feed blue in up top and work its way to the bottom.
Let me put a pail of water on the roof, run a hose down to the sidewalk, you stick your face over the hose when I fill the bucket up. As long as that bucket is full....you're going to get a face full! Ain't no air going back up that hose my friends.
So I pull into the driveway and on the way in I tag my kid's toys and cut the RR rubber hose! (lucky me, I put a vise grip on it to cut the flow) The next day I get a new hose for that corner. Do I have to bleed all FOUR of the corners now when I replace the RR?? Oh hell no. Who tells you guys this stuff! lol
Carry on gents, if you're in the neighborhood stop in and I gladly put your car on stands and share a coke with you while we flush your brakes with some new Wilwood 570. Free of charge even.
No matter how you do it Dont refill useing gunk dot 5 silicon it not made for abs systems!You can use reg dot 3 mopar or motul or shell dot5 or valvoline synthetic hope this helps.
LOL! Yea I'm a newbie at it so I just kinda took a swing at this one.
I confess that I don't really do this. I only have two jack stands and two buckets. So I can only do one end at a time. Usually when I've installed a new brake system. And most of the time totally solo.
You guys need to get past this book material some and understand that the intent of that info it based upon cycling the ABS system which is completely unnecessary when you flush or bleed brakes- unless you're foolish enough to let the mc gurgle dry....more people get in trouble with all the pedal pumping and that's where the air is induced. All that pumping is doing is accelerating the rate the fluid is passing though the hose- think about it; nothing more. It's not a magic bleed, it's just pressurized fluid. Same as suction and pressure tools- all they do is force fluid faster (which by itself it potentially a huge problem for aeration issues, dont' believe me? Ask your fell 'big name' bbk supplier what their take is on it) For those who like color changes in fluid (a valid idea) it's a no brainer to open any caliper nipple and watch the color change as you feed blue in up top and work its way to the bottom.
Let me put a pail of water on the roof, run a hose down to the sidewalk, you stick your face over the hose when I fill the bucket up. As long as that bucket is full....you're going to get a face full! Ain't no air going back up that hose my friends.
So I pull into the driveway and on the way in I tag my kid's toys and cut the RR rubber hose! (lucky me, I put a vise grip on it to cut the flow) The next day I get a new hose for that corner. Do I have to bleed all FOUR of the corners now when I replace the RR?? Oh hell no. Who tells you guys this stuff! lol
Carry on gents, if you're in the neighborhood stop in and I gladly put your car on stands and share a coke with you while we flush your brakes with some new Wilwood 570. Free of charge even.
Todd, i think you'll have to cuts the newer guys here a bit of slack. you don't post much and now that you aren't a vendor, only the old timers know who you are
i wish i could take you up on your offer! i bought one of your last SS brake kits from you and after the install and bleed i didn't feel any extra pedal stiffness.
Todd, i think you'll have to cuts the newer guys here a bit of slack. you don't post much and now that you aren't a vendor, only the old timers know who you are
i wish i could take you up on your offer! i bought one of your last SS brake kits from you and after the install and bleed i didn't feel any extra pedal stiffness.
SS hose "upgrades" are clearly one of those subjective things. Compared to hoses of 20yrs ago (which I can sadly relate) today's hoses are far superior. SS hoses remain a good package over the long haul but shorter stopping distances and significant pedal feel changes are probably a bit of a reach.
If you ever make it my way however I'd be happy to flush a bottle of 570 with you.
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