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Old 11-25-2012, 12:00 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Simon.Starkie View Post
Eeeeewww, rusty knuckles! At least hit them with some nice black Rustoleum!



My car has your forged aluminum lateral control arms for the past 100k miles. They are still fine but I wish I'd used a little antisieze before assembly as one is now seized. No worries though, a little PB and if necessary some heat.

Sure would like to get my front LCA bushings done. But no response. Getting a bad vibe about that. But I have a couple of alternatives that will work. And hell, it's not rocket science - just 3 bolts for cry in' out loud. Still, it's a bit disappointing.

Hahaha!

Ball joints maybe too while I am doing it!

Stark, you know that modern sells control arms with poly bushings and new ball joints?? take a look.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:52 PM   #32 (permalink)
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^^^
Yep, that is just one of the options...the Modern front LCA's come with new ball joints too is why I mentioned that.

I also have a nephew who has every tool imaginable, including a hydraulic press.

Ebay has a used Harbor Freight press for $49 like the yellow POS in the video here.

I can also take the control arms to Monument Auto Parts and have the bushings pressed.

I may even spend a small part of my bonus money on the Real Tune LCA's just to keep it interesting.
That is, so the front is not unlike the MannyZ Lateral Control Arms I have had in back since 2003.

Lots of options really and certainly no need for me to go cap in hand to anyone.

I've done all of my own suspension work and it has worked out great.
Now it's time to give the front Lower Control Arm bushings some TLC and finish the job.
May as well continue the fun and finish this last task myself.
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:40 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Well my wheel bearing worries have went away. It appears my mech forgot to tighten down the damn lug nuts on my driver side front wheel. It sounded just like a damn bad wheel bearing too.

Seems off topic.. but I figured if I had to do my wheel bearings, I might as well start working on all the drive terrain (replacing/upgrading them).
But I'm still interested in these steel LCAs now haha...
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Old 11-25-2012, 02:56 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by illriginalized View Post
Well my wheel bearing worries have went away. It appears my mech forgot to tighten down the damn lug nuts on my driver side front wheel. It sounded just like a damn bad wheel bearing too.

Seems off topic.. but I figured if I had to do my wheel bearings, I might as well start working on all the drive terrain (replacing/upgrading them).
But I'm still interested in these steel LCAs now haha...

Here's my deal to you: under the proviso that you can post up a picture of your wheel bearings, and if they are worse than mine, then I'll permit you access to all my "how-to" photos for the front c-arms!!
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:19 PM   #35 (permalink)
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The title of this thready is a bit confusing as far as the Neon is concerned.
Lower Control Arms typically refers to the front suspension.
Lateral Control Arms typically refers to the rear suspension.
Formula 1 Race Cars have Lateral Control Arms on both front and back LOL
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:05 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by ValleyRacer View Post
Here's my deal to you: under the proviso that you can post up a picture of your wheel bearings, and if they are worse than mine, then I'll permit you access to all my "how-to" photos for the front c-arms!!

Haha... yeah with my busy life if I had to get wheels bearings replaced, it's going to my mechanic. If it takes about an hour or so, I have no problems doing the job.

Plus talking about uses presses.. jees, I have a pretty decent collection of tools I've started collecting since back in high school.. but have nothing that fancy.

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Old 11-25-2012, 11:28 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by illriginalized View Post
Haha... yeah with my busy life if I had to get wheels bearings replaced, it's going to my mechanic. If it takes about an hour or so, I have no problems doing the job.

Plus talking about uses presses.. jees, I have a pretty decent collection of tools I've started collecting since back in high school.. but have nothing that fancy.

The bearing cannot be removed from the hub without a hydraulic press. The disassembly of the tire, rotor, axle etc - can be one by the owner.
So save yourself some duckets, do the diassembly, and find a press service.

Harbor freight has a 6 ton on sale for $80-100 all the time. I'm paying for 1/2 so my friend will have one. The cost of what I've payed to have done to my ACR would fully jusitfy having one. You'd get your money back if you have any other SRT4 people near you needing bushings done.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:28 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by ValleyRacer View Post
The bearing cannot be removed from the hub without a hydraulic press. The disassembly of the tire, rotor, axle etc - can be one by the owner.
So save yourself some duckets, do the diassembly, and find a press service.

Harbor freight has a 6 ton on sale for $80-100 all the time. I'm paying for 1/2 so my friend will have one. The cost of what I've payed to have done to my ACR would fully jusitfy having one. You'd get your money back if you have any other SRT4 people near you needing bushings done.

Thanks for the tip! That's not a bad price either.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:43 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by ValleyRacer View Post
The bearing cannot be removed from the hub without a hydraulic press. The disassembly of the tire, rotor, axle etc - can be one by the owner.
So save yourself some duckets, do the diassembly, and find a press service.

Harbor freight has a 6 ton on sale for $80-100 all the time. I'm paying for 1/2 so my friend will have one. The cost of what I've payed to have done to my ACR would fully jusitfy having one. You'd get your money back if you have any other SRT4 people near you needing bushings done.

actually this is incorrect. you can remove the bearing while the hub is still on the car without a press. there is a tool that you can rent or purchase to do this. same thing with the ball joints you do not need a press to remove and install those.
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:35 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by red2k2rt View Post
actually this is incorrect. you can remove the bearing while the hub is still on the car without a press. there is a tool that you can rent or purchase to do this. same thing with the ball joints you do not need a press to remove and install those.

Well I was referring to the procedure I could support with the photos I took, so I could provide instructions if any questions arose, so it's not incorrect, there just happens to be another method. And a specialized tool is needed.

Post up pix if you can, or a part #, I don't think anyone on the board has used or seen it or posted pix. It's quite a chore to accomplish the way we did it.
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Old 11-26-2012, 07:36 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by red2k2rt View Post
actually this is incorrect. you can remove the bearing while the hub is still on the car without a press. there is a tool that you can rent or purchase to do this. same thing with the ball joints you do not need a press to remove and install those.

Name of tool?

I've seen this tool @ Autozone:


This was like 4 years ago, someone was renting it and I'm pretty sure they mentioned something about wheel bearings lol
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:01 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by ValleyRacer View Post
Well I was referring to the procedure I could support with the photos I took, so I could provide instructions if any questions arose, so it's not incorrect, there just happens to be another method. And a specialized tool is needed.

Post up pix if you can, or a part #, I don't think anyone on the board has used or seen it or posted pix. It's quite a chore to accomplish the way we did it.

you made it seem like that was the only way to remove it. i'll google what i had seen because i was watching a video of a guy using this tool to remove the wheel bearing off a neon with the help of an air gun. got it off pretty damn quickly too.

here is the tool.


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Old 11-28-2012, 08:03 AM   #43 (permalink)
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well apparently after looking up the cost of this tool it might be a lot cheaper to just pull the knuckle and press out the hub. unless you can justify spending 400 on this tool.

Great deal on OTC Tools - 6575 at ToolTopia.com

i suppose if you plan on doing a lot of these and saving money on realignments its worth it.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:52 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Default the problem with short postings

I was outlining the procedure I could explain and support with my photos.
I wasn't trying to state that there was only ONE way to extract the hub or that you would have to purchase a new unit fully assembled etc etc.

That tool is quite impressive.

What occurs to me is that for $80 - $100 Harbor Freight has a 6 ton hydraulic press that you could use for hub removal AND bushing extraction on c-arms and more and for many other uses..........

Where are this tool kit could (possibly) be rented for occasional use or purchased, but a press seems more versatile.

There are other tools, simpler in scope, to get the hub out as I see on youtube.

Great learning videos.
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:50 PM   #45 (permalink)
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i have them, replaced all my suspension parts, i really needed the extra adjustment with my coilovers. mine have yet to make a sound, the price is right and they are strong. i wouldnt rebuild the stock ones when for not a lot more you can get an upgrade. those with noise problems i have to think they arent keeping them lubricated like dcr recommends. there are lots of choices but if anyone has squeek or any noise concerns i wouldnt worry
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