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Old 07-10-2009, 08:53 AM   #16 (permalink)
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x2^

Plus it makes aligning easier, especially with camber..you dont have to worry about your bolts slipping under a load (road racing, autocross, etc..)..that is if you get all 4 of course
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:14 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I would watch out for Aluminum Swag tubes being used on a daily driver.

Cheaper Tubular Rear Control arms anyone???

Just in case anyone missed this thread, here is your answer. I'm not sure why DCR takes a month to order off the shelf Aluminum Swags and rod ends from A-tech (Summit.com's back door for commercial sales)...

I ordered mine and got them in within 2 days, I also ordered and built an Aluminum set 6130 to be exact, aircraft quality. After construction I looked at those mean ass threads on the rod end and could see exactly what would happen after several months of daily driving....I will trust the aluminum ones when it's a track only car and @ the 2400 or less pounds mark.

Just my 2 cents. I love my rear lca's for sure!



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Old 07-10-2009, 04:30 PM   #18 (permalink)
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that was another concern of mine about the DCRs were strehgth over time. I live in IL and our roads are horrible. I dont want to spend 140 on nice control arms to have them bent, and trashed in a month. I do use my srt as a daily and the way i see it maybe the mopars might be a bit better for me.
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Old 07-11-2009, 02:32 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I bought rage's big staff rcas, I think they're over kill for a street car
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Old 11-23-2012, 01:09 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Bump!

So for a daily driver, are we better off just upgrading the OEM control arms with a bushing set, such as energy suspension?


What are our options for rear control arms? It appears that the DCR LCAs are not for daily driving nor the ones from modern performance.
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Old 11-23-2012, 04:04 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Default my rear c-arm poly install is satisfactory

Quote: Originally Posted by illriginalized View Post
Bump!

So for a daily driver, are we better off just upgrading the OEM control arms with a bushing set, such as energy suspension?


What are our options for rear control arms? It appears that the DCR LCAs are not for daily driving nor the ones from modern performance.

MannyZ makes STRONG rear c-arms you can email him for details

I, for one, am happy with my poly install on the rear OEM c-arms. A press will make the job get done in less then 2 hours. By now any OEM rear c-arm bushings are disintegrating anyway. I have posted (and available) a complete How-to on the rear c-arm upgrade. Others posted photos too. Upgrade your rear end links and trailing arm bushings and you'll be golden. I think you could do the entire rear bushing (end links, sway bars, c-arms, laterals) install for less money than a set of aftermarket arms.









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Old 11-24-2012, 03:13 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Thanks a lot for your input! I guess I'll just go with the upgrade instead of aftermarket. I just bought my struts/springs from Tokico, waiting for them to arrive, hoping they have the holes for the rear sway bar. Once that's confirmed I can move forward on buying everything suspension related (don't know if I want to add a rear strut bar if I'm going with a rear sway bar, might be overkill).
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:51 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Default input

Quote: Originally Posted by illriginalized View Post
Thanks a lot for your input! I guess I'll just go with the upgrade instead of aftermarket. I just bought my struts/springs from Tokico, waiting for them to arrive, hoping they have the holes for the rear sway bar. Once that's confirmed I can move forward on buying everything suspension related (don't know if I want to add a rear strut bar if I'm going with a rear sway bar, might be overkill).

Hay bud, not trying to be one of these asshole on here that THINK they know what they are talking about but, do you know what a rear strut bar is for? And what a bigger set of anti-roll - swaybars will do for your car?

A lot of people on here seem to confuse the two quit a bit, on what either one benefits.

Any type of bar the is mounted solid on the chaissis, is for the most part going to stiffen up the chassis. When you start stiffening the chassis, it will make those bigger anti-roll - sway bars work that much better.
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:04 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by manny z View Post
Hay bud, not trying to be one of these asshole on here that THINK they know what they are talking about but, do you know what a rear strut bar is for? And what a bigger set of anti-roll - swaybars will do for your car?

A lot of people on here seem to confuse the two quit a bit, on what either one benefits.

Any type of bar the is mounted solid on the chaissis, is for the most part going to stiffen up the chassis. When you start stiffening the chassis, it will make those bigger anti-roll - sway bars work that much better.

If I understand correctly, the strut bar is supposed to make the body more rigid while the sway bars makes the suspension (struts/shocks) more rigid.


But hell I'll get both. I'm more of a spirited driver, so I really enjoy taking curves at much higher speeds. If the strut bars complement the sway bars on those curves, then that's awesome.

Also do you have a link to your LCAs? I'm guessing I will get a lot more road noise with the aftermarkets vs going with bushing kit.

Quote: Originally Posted by ValleyRacer View Post
I have posted (and available) a complete How-to on the rear c-arm upgrade. Others posted photos too. Upgrade your rear end links and trailing arm bushings and you'll be golden. I think you could do the entire rear bushing (end links, sway bars, c-arms, laterals) install for less money than a set of aftermarket arms.

Link to how to? By press if you mean one of those c-shaped presses, then yeah, I could use that.



Like one of these ^


Edit: Actually what's the name of this tool:
BORKED

I'll just buy that.

Last edited by illriginalized; 11-24-2012 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:09 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Default chassis brace and suspension parts.

Ok, here it goes. when you start installing suspension parts that are going to make your ride that much more resistant to body roll, plushness, and some movement, you are going to be asking more of your chassis. What do I mean by that, on the stock suspension it will have more tendency to move a lot.

Now with stiffer springs, high rebound struts, bigger anti-roll (sway bars) bars, your chassis will flex that much more. that is when you start tying it all together with strut bars, frame ties, roll bars and cages.

Once you do this to your chassis, you will let your suspension work that much better, since you will not be loosing any suspension control over chassis flex.

On this car, I know that you need more chassis bracing on the rear of the car. I say this cause if you look on the front of of the car (engine compartment) you will notice that the strut towers are really close to the firewall. Where the good part of FWD cars have them close to the middle.

And better yet on the srt-4, you will notice a small support bracket on the rear of the front towers, to make it even more rigid. No, the reg neons do not have this.

No, I am sorry I do not have any links to my rear arms. But I do recomend the steel ones for street cars.
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:55 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by manny z View Post
Ok, here it goes. when you start installing suspension parts that are going to make your ride that much more resistant to body roll, plushness, and some movement, you are going to be asking more of your chassis. What do I mean by that, on the stock suspension it will have more tendency to move a lot.

Now with stiffer springs, high rebound struts, bigger anti-roll (sway bars) bars, your chassis will flex that much more. that is when you start tying it all together with strut bars, frame ties, roll bars and cages.

Once you do this to your chassis, you will let your suspension work that much better, since you will not be loosing any suspension control over chassis flex.

On this car, I know that you need more chassis bracing on the rear of the car. I say this cause if you look on the front of of the car (engine compartment) you will notice that the strut towers are really close to the firewall. Where the good part of FWD cars have them close to the middle.

And better yet on the srt-4, you will notice a small support bracket on the rear of the front towers, to make it even more rigid. No, the reg neons do not have this.

No, I am sorry I do not have any links to my rear arms. But I do recomend the steel ones for street cars.

Thanks for the explanation!

And also PM sent!
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:26 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Default hydraulic press preferred method

While you could use your c=clamp set up with a little patience, and that video is not quite what I was referring to of my videos- it's this type of hydraulic press

this type of press will greatly simplify the removal of the rear c-arm OEM bushings

you can also have a vice and socket set up - a little garage-ghetto though



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Old 11-25-2012, 03:32 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Default not a tool to purchase

Quote: Originally Posted by illriginalized View Post





Edit: Actually what's the name of this tool:
BORKED

I'll just buy that.

This little video is a master SRT4 mechanic being humorous and using his brake tool device to extract a bushing from my 99 NEON. It's not anything for you to purchase for SRT4 bushing work. There is no noticeable road noise to be had with the rear c-arm bushing install.
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:56 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Eeeeewww, rusty knuckles! At least hit them with some nice black Rustoleum!


Quote: Originally Posted by manny z View Post
But I do recomend the steel ones for street cars.

My car has your forged aluminum lateral control arms for the past 100k miles. They are still fine but I wish I'd used a little antisieze before assembly as one is now seized. No worries though, a little PB and if necessary some heat.

Sure would like to get my front LCA bushings done. But no response. Getting a bad vibe about that. But I have a couple of alternatives that will work. And hell, it's not rocket science - just 3 bolts for cry in' out loud. Still, it's a bit disappointing.

Hahaha!

Ball joints maybe too while I am doing it!
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Old 11-25-2012, 11:54 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Default LCA arm for DIY - a few things like a PRESS

If you can manage getting the car UP and take off a tire, and can get the LCA arm off, being paritcularly careful with the steering knuckle/ball joint, undo the sway bar end links, remember to bend the rear bushing bolt tab down slightly (photo available) - AND you have a hydraulic press or access to one to get the bushings out, then find a little tray or somewhere to burn out rubber without starting a fire - then installing the NEW bushings (prothane I used) is very simple.
Getting the c-arms back on takes a little diligence. It's not the bolts or anything, it's the bushing removal that will stump you.
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