bit of a dilemma......new control arms from dealer or aftermarket bushings?
while getting my 30k mile tune up at the dealer, turns out the control arm bushings on both the left and right side are worn out, as well as the bushings in the sway bar end links. now here comes my dilemma.....
do i pay my 100 dollar deductible and get two brand new control arms w/bushings from mopar, only to possibly have the stock bushings, which are made of the cheapest stuff dodge could produce, fail again in 30k or so miles again.....this time i may not have a warranty to cover my ass
as well.....pay 375 dollars to the dealer to replace my front sway bar and end links w/ garbage bushings because the warranty doesnt cover sway bars....apparently the dealer can not get the sway bar and end links seperately from the factory....which is bullshit....only to have the bushings possibly fail as well in 30k or so miles and have to pay again to replace them.
oooorrrrrr......just buy a set of prothane full suspension bushings for 130 bucks or so.....pay my local mavis tire about 150 bucks to install the bushings and never have to worry about the bushings failing....ever....and have better handling bushings than stock? all for less than 300 bucks.
but.....if something goes wrong with the control arms with the prothane bushings installed the dealer will not warranty it and i could void my extended warranty which is in effect right now?
what would you do?
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sorry i cant answer your question but... when your control arm bushings are bad are you getting weird squeeking sounds from the front end when you turn or anything?
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no insurance, no money, car demolished by deer. can anything else go wrong?
thats exactly what i told the dealer i was hearing....a funny squeaking sound coming from the right front wheel well everytime i took a big bump....little bumps werent a problem
the front end also feels like i lowered the car too much on stock suspension when i go over bumps.....i can feel everything.....it sucks....but its driveable
is there anyone out there who can help me with my dilemma.....i just called my local mavis and they gave me the actual price of 500 bucks for installing a full set of polyurethane bushings and an all 4 wheel alignment.....now my dilemma is getting worse
If it were me.. I would get the black Prothane bushings to keep to low key. Seriously though front LCA bushings are like $50, end links with bolts are like $20 and easy as shit to do yourself. If you are really worried about the warranty then should be way more worried about the mods you have listed in your sig screwing you over. Don't bother with the stock bushings they are crap.
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Mopar Stage 3R w Toys 388.8 WHP 425.5 WTQ
Mopar CAI,Mopar BOV,S3 C/O's,AGP S3 WGA
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LCA, strut tension, Booger bushings,CV,18" Konig's,TCS, D/S Rotors
what part of NY do you live in. I use to work at 3 Mavisis and can probaly get it done for you cheaper. Im also getting rid of my Rage Tek Solid Control Arms so shoot me a PM. Im in the Queens area.
oooorrrrrr......just buy a set of prothane full suspension bushings for 130 bucks or so.....pay my local mavis tire about 150 bucks to install the bushings and never have to worry about the bushings failing....ever....and have better handling bushings than stock? all for less than 300 bucks.
but.....if something goes wrong with the control arms with the prothane bushings installed the dealer will not warranty it and i could void my extended warranty which is in effect right now?
what would you do?
The urethane bushings still fail and will fail over time...they just usually last a lot longer.
With that being said, get the urethane bushing kit and call it a day. The factory ones are JUNK
since were on the topic of changing out the LCA's, get ready for a bitch boat of a time.
2 hours to get one side back in and 20 mins for the other!
Tips: put 2 lug nuts on the bottem of the studs(for the rotors) have a friend kick(more of a push with your feet) on the bottem on the rotor, that will give you the angle to get the ball joint back in. Also, you may want to hammer a tad bit down on the part of the LCA mounting point thats farthes back(you'll see when you do it). Obviously, get a burn pit and a propane torch and light the old bushings on fire to get them out.
I just did a set of Energy suspension, literally 3 hours from start to finish of one side, then 20 on the other. You will learn a lot after you do one side. Use lots of grease.
QUESTION: Is there anyway to fill the ball joint up with anything? I hear a new clunk up front when making some turns? I have heard some people actually drill and tap for a little filler hole on the bottome(metal circular part of the ball joint) and fill it up that way. Any ideas?
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SARCASTIC.
FS: O2 housings(stock/stage 3), stock IC(s), Autometer Wideband (ultralite pro comp $330 gauge), 49lb Ported FnF Stg 3 Big wheel with 3.5" O2 and AGP WGA(CHEAP)...PM for offers
1) sway bar end links ARE available seperate, they need to look again.
5272324AC sway bar end link (x2)
2) Pay the $100 deduct and get the control arms replaced NEW. Then ask if you can have the old ones. THOSE are the ones that you put the updated bushings in.
3) What service contract is it? If it's a chrysler service contract, I'm not sure the sway bar end links aren't covered.. so you can pm me your info and i can check for sure just in case.
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ALL MOPAR AND MOPAR PERFORMANCE PARTS!!!! James "Jimmy" Campbell E-mail/Paypal: speedandpowerdevelopment@gmail.com Email is better than PM's
The trick to getting the vertical bushing installed with the E.S. bushing is simple. Use a bench vise to compress the assembly together before trying to put the arm back into the k frame/frame.
Also anyone who has the rage lca bushings can you please take a pic of them installed but maybe off the car? I'm planning on making my own but need some more info first.
can someone make a how to on how to do this? i pulled my tranny by myself using a how to and had no problem so do you think i should be able to figure this out?
can someone make a how to on how to do this? i pulled my tranny by myself using a how to and had no problem so do you think i should be able to figure this out?
tonight or sunday you will have one bud...i have pics already taken and i did it myself so i know the steps taken...just need the time to write it up
My cousin and I did my lower control arm bushings. It was time consuming because it was hard to get one of the bushings in, and we had to burn the old vertical bushing off of the metal tube that it surrounds. Other than that it was pretty easy and worth it.
1) sway bar end links ARE available seperate, they need to look again.
5272324AC sway bar end link (x2)
2) Pay the $100 deduct and get the control arms replaced NEW. Then ask if you can have the old ones. THOSE are the ones that you put the updated bushings in.
3) What service contract is it? If it's a chrysler service contract, I'm not sure the sway bar end links aren't covered.. so you can pm me your info and i can check for sure just in case.
sorry for the late response
thank you everyone for all of your input.....but this is really good info powertowin......i sent you a pm with my info so any more info you find about my warranty will be greatly appreciated......i trust my dealership and they are good guys but i know everyone makes mistakes
after reading all of your responses and ideas i have come up with what i feel is the perfect plan of action.....
It turns out that I have accumulated enough points on my Dodge credit card to recieve $100 off of my bill at a dodge dealership....sooooo....that $100 deductible I would have to pay to get the new control arms would now be $0......so when I leave my car for an oil change in a few months I will have them install the control arms as well
I am gonna keep the old control arms and buy a full set of prothane bushings.....if and when the new control arms bushings go.....the old control arms will be installed w/the prothanes....or i might just install the old ones w/ the prothanes when my extended warranty is up....even if the factory ones are in good shape....its always good to have a back up
I am also going to have the dealer install the prothane end links.....by supplying the dealer with the end links i will be saving on having to buy end links and a brand new sway bar from the dealer.....this will save me hundreds.....it doesnt make sense to pay $400 for a brand new sway bar and shitty factory end links FROM DODGE when i can i just have the dealer install the prothanes and pay for the labor and be done with it.....if they break or fail i will have to pay no matter what end link they install....factory or not
so in the end i will be spending only $140 for bushings and whatever the dealer charges me for labor on the prothane end links....maybe like $125.....so my grand total would be about $265 dollars as opposed to $400
one last thing...will i need a wheel alignment after the new control arms and end links are installed? will the dealer automatically do that as part of the warranty work?
why do you need a new sway bar? I dont see any reason to need a new one unless you were in an accident. you should get an alignment if you remove the control arms, but not if you only do the endlinks
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