The red button is on with S3 25psi with cooling mist injection

[j8123]

Just wanted to say that after a little tuning on my car the red button is holding strong. I have my spray start at 1.2psi and full at 10.1psi. I am running a nozzle in the stock IC and one in the stock soft pipe about 2" from the throttle body. The car pulls extremely smooth. A/F is around 11.6, EGT around 1525, Timing at the top is 35 degrees. Here is my current set-up on the car.

Stage 3 w/toys
S3 APG WG
PTP Check Valve
MPx full exhaust no cat
Maxfabb S3 O2 Housing
K&N Drop in filter
Cooling mist Stage II with Vari-cool controller not the trunk mount kit
Everything else is stock

[Coolingmist]

This is great news. I know of a few other stage 3 SRT 4s with our kit that are able to hold HOM. Looks like we got the recipe right this time.

Thanks should go to B4tn as he played around with controller settings and nozzle sizes to help dial this in.

CM

[Philth]

Hey quick question. When you said you set up the vari-cool for us before shipping, what is it set at? (I bought the Stage 3 HOM trunkmount kit from you.)

Also, do you suppose I can do this as far as nozzle placement goes? One in the cold side pipe and one in the FMIC outlet pipe?

[Coolingmist]

Quote: Originally Posted by Philth

Hey quick question. When you said you set up the vari-cool for us before shipping, what is it set at? (I bought the Stage 3 HOM trunkmount kit from you.)

Also, do you suppose I can do this as far as nozzle placement goes? One in the cold side pipe and one in the FMIC outlet pipe?

the TPS signal must be wired to the blue wire and you will need to be at 2.6 volts on the TPS wire before it will inject. Also, you should put one nozzle prior to the IAT and one after.

CM

[hydrohopper]

I haven't been keeping up with new info on the forum about WI but does it still matter to run the nozzle or nozzles before or after the IAT sensor?

Why are most S3 user going with dual nozzle setups rather than single nozzle?

[Philth]

Hyrdo,

I ended up mounting one nozzle on the FMIC cold side end tank and one on the UPP. I think the reason for two nozzles are to obtain a finer mist when spraying. Hope this helps...

[Coolingmist]

one nozzle before the IAT, 2nd after.

CM

[hydrohopper]

thanks

[j8123]

Update:

I had a chance to take the car to a a dyno Numbers were 322FWHP and 390FWTQ. The temp was right at 99degrees and I set it to run rich because it was only two pulls allowed A/F dipped off the chart. With real load on the car it sits around 10.7-10.9. I think HP should have been a little high, but the car runs strong on the road. Right after I dynoed my friend in his EVO9 went on there AWD Dyno Dynamic dyno. If you are fimilar with different dynos these dynos read real low. On a dyno jet he would be close to 400whp. He put down 367AWHP with 370AWTQ. On the way home we did a few runs and guess what happened he got pulled by two cars from a 60-120mph roll. I would have though he would have pulled on me. Even with his car being slightly heavier. His car weighs in around 3400LB with him in it. Mine should be in the 3100 range considering I weigh in at 225LB. Anyone have any thoughts feel free to respond. The only thing I could think of is that the car was tuned by me on the road and without real load it was drowning the poor car in fuel. Plus the high heat and stock IC was most likey not helping much.

Video

[GoChris]

I have an ED hard pipe. So one nozzle will be before the IAT I believe is how that's setup. I was going to drill and tap the on the IC cold side. Can I have both before the IAT or should I really have one after?