Note: I'm at work and bored, so this is longer than necessary. Skip to the end if you're in a hurry.
I've had my Coolingmist single stage deluxe kit on my car for a couple years (well past the 1 year warranty) without any problems - I love this kit. I was working on my car yesterday and noticed my supply tank was bone dry...odd, it was half full 2 days ago and I haven't driven it in 2 days...hmmmm. I didn't think much about it cuz I was working on other things.
Anyway, I get done and start up the car. Since I was working on the fuel line (installing a pressure sender), the car sputtered a bit for a minute or two then smoothed out. No worries, just a little air in the fuel line, it's cleared out now.
I pull out of my parking spot and the car starts sputtering really bad; choking; coughing; etc. I stop and it clears up. My AFR is really rich (like 9 in first gear with minimal throttle). Can't be fuel, all I did was swap one company's fuel pressure sender with another. I didn't touch anything else. Then it hits me: My empty w/i tank. My w/i check valve has failed. I've got about a quart of windshield washer fluid in my cold side pipe.
I won't be able to confirm this until the weekend when I can tear into it (because of work). I have noticed that in the past couple months I seem to be using alot of washer fluid, but nothing anywhere near like this.
SHORT VERSION: I think my check valve failed and dumped a quart of windshield washer fluid into my cold side pipe. Car sputters when given any throttle and AFR is very rich. Checking it out this weekend.
That would not suprise me. Our original checkvalve from back then could fail under high heat situations. The seal inside was buna. we have upgraded our checkvalve now with EPDM seals, it can handle much greater heat.
You can take the cv off and look inside on the exit side of the valve and see the oring. If its swollen, you will notice immediately.
Well, I ordered a new one last night, if it gets here by Saturday, I can yank out the old one and take a look. Where I've got it placed, I wouldn't have thought heat would be a problem. It's right close to the bottom of the car by the PCM. Oh well, at least I won't be replacing a pump or something really expensive.
this new valve solves that issue, Im 100% sure that was the problem. the fluid probably gets hot in the engine bay as well, over time could potentially cause an issue.
my old coolingmist CV failed as well. and dumped a FULL windshield washier tanks' worth of fluid into my coldside. DO's CV failed on me as well and did the same thing.
ive gone through 3 Different types of CV's and CM's new checkvalve is the only one that hasnt failed me yet.
U have the selinoid CV?? Or the other one??
Damn Mike u brang me WAY back with some ShortCircuit-Johnny5.
"Johnny5 is alive!!"
ahhh I get it! "Norcal is alive!!"
That's Deep brah.
Peace
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man... I think that mine is bad to... except it wont let fluid travel from the pump to the injector and this trunk mount kit is like 4 months old. I bought it from a friend last nite and have been trying to in stall this thing all day and can not get fluid past the check valve unless I take it off and put it back on then it pumps past the check valve and stops after a few seconds. If anyone knows why let me know please!!!!
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This is what a blown one looks like. You shouldn't be able to see that black rubber on the inside of the outlet side of the valve.
That same thing happened to me 2 times (with old buna seals). Except mine is direct port so the engine vac was sucking the fluid in whenever the car was on and not in boost. Both times, David was very helpful and shipped me a new one immediately. Since that last time, things have been working great .
never had any problems with my kit (both of them, one on the srt, one my friends turbo sunfire), probably had the new valve. unfortunatly both cars are sold now great kit tho!
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Put a kit on my car and my brothers a year and a half ago--not one problem until now-guess I cant complain. Just need a new valve and be good to go again.
Hey coolingmist I was hoping you would respond by now. But I'm sure you have a company to run so don't think that I'm complaining. But I ran a test and I have got 12.7 volts @ the pump the siphon is not clogged and the line is not clogged I really think your check valve is bad. It should be the new style. As I stated above the weird thing is that the fluid will not go past the check valve , but when I take it off the fluid gushes out like it is supposed to and when I reinstall the check valve it operates very well "for about 2-3 minutes then it stops flowing" do I have to have this check valve , can it operate correctly without it? And if it is bad why would it have gone out? This system has only had one and a half tanks run threw it. And also I should ad that the injector is not clogged and the check valve is not backwards. Please help lilredsrt
Hey coolingmist I was hoping you would respond by now. But I'm sure you have a company to run so don't think that I'm complaining. But I ran a test and I have got 12.7 volts @ the pump the siphon is not clogged and the line is not clogged I really think your check valve is bad. It should be the new style. As I stated above the weird thing is that the fluid will not go past the check valve , but when I take it off the fluid gushes out like it is supposed to and when I reinstall the check valve it operates very well "for about 2-3 minutes then it stops flowing" do I have to have this check valve , can it operate correctly without it? And if it is bad why would it have gone out? This system has only had one and a half tanks run threw it. And also I should ad that the injector is not clogged and the check valve is not backwards. Please help lilredsrt
The issue is not with the checkvalve, I am 100% certain. Usually its a result of the pump being clogged. The issue is the pump cant build enough pressure to push the checkvalve open. The reasons can vary for this.
You are welcome to send the unit to us and we can diagnose it if you like. You will be responsible for shipping charges and any parts that need replaced.
Unfortunately, I cant just "guess" as to what the problem is, but I am 100% certain the problem is not the checkvalve.
99% of the time when we had this issue with warranty cases, the pump was replaced and it solved the problem.
PS...Yes I am aware that if you remove the checkvalve from the system the kit will seem to work. I am also 100% aware that if you replace the checkvalve you will have the same problem.
Let me know what you want to do.
David
Last edited by Coolingmist : 07-10-2007 at 08:25 PM.
Hey coolingmist I was hoping you would respond by now. But I'm sure you have a company to run so don't think that I'm complaining. But I ran a test and I have got 12.7 volts @ the pump the siphon is not clogged and the line is not clogged I really think your check valve is bad. It should be the new style. As I stated above the weird thing is that the fluid will not go past the check valve , but when I take it off the fluid gushes out like it is supposed to and when I reinstall the check valve it operates very well "for about 2-3 minutes then it stops flowing" do I have to have this check valve , can it operate correctly without it? And if it is bad why would it have gone out? This system has only had one and a half tanks run threw it. And also I should ad that the injector is not clogged and the check valve is not backwards. Please help lilredsrt
I had the same issue a while back when I let my tank run dry for a little while. Same symptoms you are having. It turned out to be my injector was the cluprit. I had to take it fully apart and clean very very well (unscrew screen!!!). It doesn't take much for them to clog.
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