TOB Fix Install Instructions

[NemoFoss]

Brake Fluid eats paint.. Do Not let sit on paint for more than a minute.. Was off with water ASAP..


Step 1: Remove Transmission.

Step 2: Remove Stock TOB Pivot Arm and discard.

Step 3: Remove Small Plate from Input shaft area (T30 torx) and put away somewhere.



Step 4: Your trans should now look like this.



Step 5: Now install New Guide Plate with factory screws loctite and torque to 115 inch/lbs.



Step 6: Now Slide the Hydraulic TOB over the TOB guide tube. (you may have to clean old clutch residue off with fine sandpaper) Make sure to place the Guide Stud between the fittind coming out of the hydraulic TOB assembly. (see below)



Step 7: Now verify that all fittings and lines are tight and properly postioned.

Step 8: Remove factory clutch master cylinder from firewall. If you loosen the four nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the firewall and gently push the brake pedal you can buy yourself some valuable space for getting the cluch master out and back in. You can also cut the stock plastic line as low as you can reach to help with removing it. Remove the cotter pin and roll pin that are holding the stock plastic line in place and insert our adaptor in it's place, then reinstall the roll pin and cotter pin.

Step 9: Make sure all fittings are tight. Then double check them, Would hate for you to have to remove the trans again because of a leak in the bellhousing. You can bleed the system now with the trans on the jack or after you install. (If you do it on the jack, aftwards make sure to open the bleeder an collapse the TOB assembly to it's shortest height then close the bleeder)

Step 10: Reinstall transmission. Then reinstall Clutch master. The SS hydraulic line should now run over top of the battery tray, just along the wiring harness. (bleed system if you did'nt do it before)

Step 11: Adjust pedal height to engage about or less than 2 inches from the floor. More than this you can blow out the seal.

Step 12 Enjoy... and remember DOT 3 or 4 fluid only.


I will be posting pics today of and important measurement you must make to properly install the kit.

We have noticed 3 failures out of about 40 installs.

It seems that there are certain clutches that have a different install height and are causing the Hydraulic unit to work at full extension causing an o-ring failure.

So stay tuned for pics on the how-to.

You'll need a piece of angle iron, vice grips and a good meauring tool.

Start by removing input shaft dust cover as stated in the install instructions.
Place 1 gold shim on the Input shaft.
Install the HTOB inplace.
Clamp angle iron to front of Bellhousing like pictured below.



Then measure depth from angle iron to face of HTOB It's best to have help to push the HTOB to the fully collapsed position. Write this number down and call it HTOB depth. Example was 2.905"




Next move your vice grip to this location.




Then measure like so......
Write this number down a Pressure Plate Height or PPH Example was 3.11"




Next measure from angle iron to contact area of Pressure Plate Fingers.
Write this number down as Finger Height or FH. example is .320"




Next measure the thickness of the angle you are using.
Write this down as IT or Iron Thickness. Example was .127"





Ok, now for the Math.

Take your FH and subtract your IT.
(fh).320 - (it).127 = .193"
Subtract this number from your PPH.
(pph)3.11" - .193" = 2.917"
Now Subtract your HTOB Depth from this number.
2.917" - (htob depth)2.905 = .012
.012 is the amount of preload you will have on the bearing.

If you end up with a negative number like -.030 to -.045 add in gold shim and remeasure your Htob Depth and recalculate. If you are -.046 to .095 add 2 shims. The shims are .050" thick..
Shoot for a preload of .005" to .020".
Remember to start with atleast one shim. If you have more than .025" preload with one shim you can sand the shim down to achieve the desired preload.
The goal is to have the HTOB completely collapsed so that you have the full range of motion out of the bearing.

I believe that the 3 units that failed had low finger heights and had the HTOB install with no gold shims, causing over extension and pressurization of the unit.

I have done all the math as far as to the Stock Master cylinder bore size and stroke. The unit has a max stroke of .688" and with HTOB properly shimmed you should have a surplus of .250 of travel left in the unit. Line pressures of over 1500 psi will damage the o-rings. You should adjust your pedal to fully engage the clutch about 1.5 to 2 inches up from the pedal stop.

All 3 failures occurred when the vehicles we stopped and had the clutch fully depressed.
If you follow these procedures you should be able to avoid any problems with your HTOB.

[NemoFoss]

Made sticky...
Will add more pics soon..

[dsmlights@rage-tek]

can someone move this also into the approved How to.

Thankssssss

[c2k]

pics too small..

[NemoFoss]

Quote: Originally Posted by Canuck_2k

pics too small..

Step 1

http://rage-tek.com/gallery/main.php...serialNumber=2

Step 2

http://rage-tek.com/gallery/main.php...serialNumber=2

Step 3

http://rage-tek.com/gallery/main.php...serialNumber=2

Save this plate

http://rage-tek.com/gallery/main.php...serialNumber=2

New Bleeder

http://rage-tek.com/gallery/main.php...serialNumber=2

Old Fork

http://rage-tek.com/gallery/main.php...serialNumber=2

[tavenger5]

In the process of installing mine now. Took me a couple hours to get the master cylinder out along with the devil plastic line. hah

Nemo, what did you do with the bleed line/valve? Is it just handing there?

[NemoFoss]

Ziptied to the other line..

[tavenger5]

Here's a couple pics I took.

I removed the master cylinder completely rather then trying to twist it out. I also didn't cut the stock line. Here's what I did in addition to above:

• Remove the reservoir (10mm bolt)
• Empty it and pump the clutch to remove all fluid
• Disconnect clutch pedal from master cylinder (8mm)
• Take out two bolts holding the master cylinder in from behind pedal (14mm?)
• Take out master cylinder (I did take out the 4 bolts for the brake master, and pushed it back from firewall a little as instructed above. Not sure if this got me more room or not)
  
• Take out stock plastic line. It twists through a lot of stuff, so if you really don't need it, just cut it and be done. I managed to get mine out without cutting.
• Take out cotter pin and roll pin (use a small piece of rod and some pliers to push it out)
• Install the SS line; push roll pin back in with pliers and put cotter back in
  
  
• Reinstall master cylinder:
  
  
• Reattach pedal
• Add brake fluid
• Get someone to help you push down the clutch as you bleed the line. (push pedal in, open valve, let air bubbles out, close valve, release pedal)
• You will see the lines move more as the line is bled.
• reinstall trans
• If clutch doesn't engage, adjust pedal outward.
• Get used to driving cause your clutch will engage faster!

[maxfastest]

I didn't see this kit for sale on your site , is it still available ?

[JesseL]

Quote: Originally Posted by maxfastest

I didn't see this kit for sale on your site , is it still available ?

x2!

[NemoFoss]

I will be putting back on.. I have old orders to catch up on...


Also I add the supplemental shim measuring how-to to the first post..

[dodgez]

you don't use this ?????




What did it do? Why don't you need it anymore? thanks

[NemoFoss]

It was a dust cover...

[maxfastest]

Quote: Originally Posted by NemoFoss

I will be putting back on.. I have old orders to catch up on...


Also I add the supplemental shim measuring how-to to the first post..

Thanks ! also what is the price on this ?

and would you please drop me a PM when you have more ready ?
thanks.

[andrewsboots]

let me know when these are back on sale also.