Any one have any suggestions on how to get the metal ring out of the control arm with out a air hammer? I already had the urethane bushings so the stock bushings were out and you don’t have to get that color out of there in order to put urethanes in and I’ve read a lot of stuff about these bushings and the PSI-fi ones and I guess I’ve failed to read the part that talks about what a pain in the balls it is to get that metal ring out.
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I should be considered the best seller on her as my customer service rivals every vender on here, well except AGP and Hector and I would say I'm as good as them Especially when you consider people come to me for help when Hector terns them away since they did not buy there stuff from them.
I'll post pics tonight of what's left of my spacers when I attempted (using a torque wrench, of course) to tighten the rear bolts to 160ft lbs.
I eventually carefully cut spacers from the stock unit so that they'd be the same height as the spacers provided and used those. With the thicker steel spacers (as opposed to the aluminum ones that came with the kit) I was able to torque it down to 160ftlbs no problem.
I didn't have the proper fitting for the press so I cut it out. I started off with a sawsal and then switched to a hack saw so that I didn't touch the housing. Just be careful. I then took a screwdriver and pried the ring out. easy as pie. I didn't leave one saw mark on the housing.
I didn't have the proper fitting for the press so I cut it out. I started off with a sawsal and then switched to a hack saw so that I didn't touch the housing. Just be careful. I then took a screwdriver and pried the ring out. easy as pie. I didn't leave one saw mark on the housing.
Well crud. I thought I had kept the crushed spacers, but evidentally I threw them out.
Anyway, on the first side I set the torque wrench to 160ft lbs and started cranking away. I noticed that it felt like I should be hitting the number several times. So I backed it off and set it to 130ft lbs and still wasn't hitting the number. I backed it off to 110 and hit the number, but noticed that if I re-applied torque, it'd move about 1/8 of a turn and then the torque wrench would pop.
So I pulled the drop light over (it was after dark) and looked at the spacers... warped all out of shape. So I pulled it apart, one of the spacers was crushed so bad that it had split on one side. Being that it was getting late, I used the spacers for the other side and torqued it down to 100ft lbs (noticed even then that re-applying the torque, it would turn about 1/8 of a turn before hitting the number again).
The next night I pulled the good spacers out and chopped up the stock steel sleeve to make new spacers. Re-assembled the first side and then did the other side. With the steel spacers it torqued down to 160ftlbs just like it should.
If I come across the warped spacers, I'll snap a pic.
I don't really get that comment considering a Sawzall is a reciprocating saw....
Sorry never heard of a Sawzall, I thought you were talking about using a saw blade by hand the entire way... I ended up using the electric saw all the way and only mard the pant no damage to the metal.
As much of a pain as I thought the insert was I think getting the ball joint to go back into the hub housing is with out question the biggest pain in the ass ever. I’m beginning to wonder if I’m doing something wrong because that shit took me an hour or more to get in.
Any hints on a easier way to get the ball joint in it’s slot would be greatly appreciated...
I’m not a hundred percent sure, but judging by how heavy the spacers that came with my bushings are I would say they are not aluminum. As heavy as they feel I can’t imagine them crushing, but hey who knows...
I finally got around to fixing the mysterious loosening bushing. The spacer piece kept deforming or pushing into the frame and therefore kept loosening. That spacer does not have enough surface area and would just press into the frame hole. What I did was, got a big thick grade 8 metal washer and placed it between the spacer and the top portion of the frame. (The washer hole is the same diameter as the spacer hole.) This spread the surface area out on the washer and onto the frame. Works great!
The top picture (Nemo’s original pic) has two arrows. The right arrow indicates where the frame hole is and where the deformation kept occurring. The left arrow is the top spacer. The bottom image shows the new washer I inserted.
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This may be an isolated case. I have not heard of anyone else having this problem. If you do hear some noise under the car, this may be the fix.
so do the spacers have washers attached to them now...and are they steel so they can be torqued to 160 ft/lbs? i may be ordering some soon....any instock?
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Especially when you consider people come to me for help when Hector terns them away since they did not buy there stuff from them. 
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