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Old 02-21-2004, 02:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Boost Controlers

Hey All,
I am looking into buying a after market boost controler. I am not shure if I should get a electronic one or a manul one. Does anyone have one and which is the best to get ??

Don
Tampabay Pt cruisers
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Old 02-21-2004, 03:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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if ur looking for a manual i have one for 75 shipped its an hks brand new
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Old 02-23-2004, 01:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by dfunkdj
Hey All,
I am looking into buying a after market boost controler. I am not shure if I should get a electronic one or a manul one. Does anyone have one and which is the best to get ??

Don
Tampabay Pt cruisers

Having Stage 1 a boost controller won't work. You boost too high and the Stage 1 pcm will retard the timing and shut you down. You can have either a boost controller or a Stage 1 but not both together.
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Old 02-23-2004, 01:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by mean green
Having Stage 1 a boost controller won't work. You boost too high and the Stage 1 pcm will retard the timing and shut you down. You can have either a boost controller or a Stage 1 but not both together.

Any truth to this? I haven't heard of that before... If so, it's
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Old 02-24-2004, 01:38 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Alpine
Any truth to this? I haven't heard of that before... If so, it's

Actually, a guy on PT Cruiser Links wrote this about using S1 and a bc> First time I heard anyone say it will work:

"yes, you can. to get the best results and easiest set-up, you'll want to bypass that WGA solenoid..

Your BC will need a pressure source. there's a black line for the TIP sensor (which isn't used anyways with S1) that connects right in front of the TB. Either tee into that line, or pull it and use the now available nipple.

Next, you'll need to run a line from BC to your WGA. There's a brown line that connects to the WGA. pull it off and cap. Run your new line from the BC to the nipple where the brown line was attached to. The PCM now has no control over your boost, and you're using "clean" lines for pressure, etc.

There's numerous people out there getting over 300, 400,and even 500 hp out of these motors (and PCM), with the only electonic trickerey needed being at the MAP sensor - but unless you're looking to ge over 18psi you should be fine."
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Old 02-24-2004, 03:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default boost controlers

Is this for a electronic controler or a Manual boost controler ???

Don
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Old 02-25-2004, 01:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by dfunkdj
Is this for a electronic controler or a Manual boost controler ???

Don

Don't know but my guess would be he was talking about a manual bc. Most people have the manual bc because it is cheaper.
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Old 04-30-2005, 11:27 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Is this true?? i was just doing some research on this topic first i heard of this.. is any body out there willing to give some basics for the Electronic boost controllerand the MBC ?? that would be helpful here.. like are they hard to install and tune .. what are some basic settings.
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Old 05-01-2005, 09:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by dfunkdj
Hey All,
I am looking into buying a after market boost controler. I am not shure if I should get a electronic one or a manul one. Does anyone have one and which is the best to get ??

Don
Tampabay Pt cruisers

It can be done easily. I have a Hallman Pro RX MBC. Don look at the solinoids on the passenger side strut tower. Unplug the creme colored vac line. now plug it in to the back end of the boost controller. Take a line from the side of the BC and plug it into were the creme colored line was in the solinoid. Turn the MBC all the way to it's most open postion, and make one rotation. Drive and adjust. Keep doing it until you get it right. If you want to go beyond 15psi, you can easily do it but you need to install a map clamp first so the PCM doesn't pull timing.

Right now I'm spiking at 16psi, and holding all the way to redline at 12psi whereas I used to spike at 13psi and it would fall slowly to 8-9psi by redline.
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Old 05-01-2005, 10:16 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by mean green
Having Stage 1 a boost controller won't work. You boost too high and the Stage 1 pcm will retard the timing and shut you down. You can have either a boost controller or a Stage 1 but not both together.



not true.
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Old 05-07-2005, 01:20 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by rjaylo

not true.

You are right. I now have a 2 stage bc with my stage 1.
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Old 05-31-2005, 10:28 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Nice PT
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Old 05-31-2005, 06:41 PM   #13 (permalink)
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weve got the needswings bc in our GT. Its the bleed type, but I would honestly like to try a ball and spring just to see the difference.
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Old 06-05-2005, 11:24 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by rjaylo
weve got the needswings bc in our GT. Its the bleed type, but I would honestly like to try a ball and spring just to see the difference.

I've got the same Hallman Pro RX (ceramic ball & spring) as SuGamer, it's even hooked up the same way. I'm spiking at about 17psi and holding 13~14 to redline in 3rd (a bit lower in 2nd - automatic tranny). No part throttle boost problems either. Keep in mind that if you don't make use of a MAP clamp and hold over 15psi the PCM will pull timing and you won't gain much of anything.
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Old 06-09-2005, 07:46 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Mike-in-Orange
I've got the same Hallman Pro RX (ceramic ball & spring) as SuGamer, it's even hooked up the same way. I'm spiking at about 17psi and holding 13~14 to redline in 3rd (a bit lower in 2nd - automatic tranny). No part throttle boost problems either. Keep in mind that if you don't make use of a MAP clamp and hold over 15psi the PCM will pull timing and you won't gain much of anything.

Way to go Mike! I got mine set about the same now also. I'm spiking at between 17 and 18psi and holding at almost 15psi. Well trying to, it slowly droops further down until about 12-13psi at redline. An upgraded WGA should fix that soon, but I may have to clamp the MAP.
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