What is that black box on Ballasts & radio static.
hi guys just wondering if anyone can tell me what those little boxs wired/connected to the ballasts are ?
Also .. My HID kit really sucks with shielding and radio static.
Is there a way to shield the ballasts ? Thanks
Its my relay is grounded in a good spot . Other spots don't seem to help.
The black box is the ignitor. Some balasts have external ignitors, like in that link, others have internal such as Philips LVQ-212/Hella Gen 3 and many other OE companies.
The problem with static and kits is just something I'm afraid you're going to have to live with, like everyone else with a kit. The problem is more than likely the cheap internal components. Nobody with OE equipment has had issues with static that I'm aware of.
i'm confused on your last sentece about the relay though. can you explain. If you can show me a MS paint rough diagram of how you wired in your relay, then it might help get some of the static out.
It's never good to "share" grounds. You always want them isolated. Sharing grounds create weak ground signals. Weak ground signals can cause problems such as signal interference. Remember, ballasts generate electromagnetic fields, which easily can cause audible sound interference in nearby audio equipmenht, i.e. your stereo.
It's never good to "share" grounds. You always want them isolated. Sharing grounds create weak ground signals. Weak ground signals can cause problems such as signal interference. Remember, ballasts generate electromagnetic fields, which easily can cause audible sound interference in nearby audio equipmenht, i.e. your stereo.
Thanks hak.
When i was sharing the ground it honestly made the static a bit worse. So i moved it to where the fender bolts up.
The ground it a bit short. So should i connect it to the Neg. term on the battery and extend it to other locations ? Thanks
PS.. You once linked Ballast covers from HID planet for mounting and etc. Would this help if i installed those covers ?
Nah, the covers are plastic and won't help with any shielding.
The grounds need to be seperate locations within 12" from each ballasts. The ground for the relay needs to be seperate from anything else as well less than 12" from relay.
Basically you'll have 3 ground wires to hook up:
-one from the relay to a chassis ground
-one from the driver side ballast to another chassis ground
-one from the passenger side ballast to another chassis ground
*Make sure all of those grounds are by themselves at their own chassis ground and not sharing it with anytrhing else.
**This might not fix your problem but it has worked for some and hasn't for others. It depends on the kit quality.
Ah there might be the problem. My ballasts dont have a grounds. It plugs into the relay that is grounded. Any suggestions?
Quote: Originally Posted by haknslash
Nah, the covers are plastic and won't help with any shielding.
The grounds need to be seperate locations within 12" from each ballasts. The ground for the relay needs to be seperate from anything else as well less than 12" from relay.
Basically you'll have 3 ground wires to hook up:
-one from the relay to a chassis ground
-one from the driver side ballast to another chassis ground
-one from the passenger side ballast to another chassis ground
*Make sure all of those grounds are by themselves at their own chassis ground and not sharing it with anytrhing else.
**This might not fix your problem but it has worked for some and hasn't for others. It depends on the kit quality.
Cut the ground wires from going thru the relay and make them isolated at the chassis, each one by itself.
I bet you'll notice a improvement, if not maybe entirely fix your problem
Traditionally those "plug and play" relay harness usually always need to be modified in some form or fashion. They are usually a sucker gimick to get people to think their system is wired correctly how it should be and is good to go. Technically they "work" yes, but not how I would recommend wiring up a harness. The only thing coming from your relay to your ballasts should be your 12V switched output signal (power). The other 3 wires from the relay should be 12v constant, chassis ground for the relay, and then the switched input (your low beam signal from the 9007 plug, it's purple in the wire harness at the plug).
Last edited by haknslash : 06-06-2007 at 09:23 PM.
So i cut the neg off the both sides and ground the wires connected to the ballast while leaving the cut side of the relay unused/ hanging ?? So the its just the main relay wire grounded and the ballasts .
So i cut the neg off the both sides and ground the wires connected to the ballast while leaving the cut side of the relay unused/ hanging ?? So the its just the main relay wire grounded and the ballasts .
Hak thanks alot btw .
Yes but give yourself more room than cutting real close to that plug. Give yourself plenty of wire left so that you can cut it and then put a ring terminal on it, then ground it to the chassis. Do this for each ballast ground wire.
It looks like your harness essentually tied in every ground source than used just one ground connection for all. Not a good thing.
So yes, just cut the wire from the ballast about 12" or less from the plug. Then attach a ring terminal and then connect that wire by itself to a nice good ground location on your car. remember to scrap back some of the paint so you get to bare metal for the best contact possible.
do this for both ballasts. SEE MY ATTACHMENT BELOW
Then just tape up the left over other cut side of the ground wires from the relay. Then reconnect the relay ground wire to a chassis ground, again with clean bare metal.
That should do it. If it doesn't, your SOL on the static interference reception.
Last edited by haknslash : 06-07-2007 at 08:36 AM.
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What is that black box on Ballasts & radio static.
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