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Old 05-24-2009, 03:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Just replaced a burned out headlight

With a set I got from ebay. The ones I put in, have an orange o-ring around them. The driver's side I pulled OUT had a blue o-ring around it, and it seem an ever so slight blue tint inside the bulb.

I don't know if that blue tint in the bulb was a result of it burning out or what. Part of the coil in the filament seemed to break/fry.

2 questions:

1. What should the stock one look like? What are its specs?

2. What's a slightly brighter bulb I can go with, without going projector or anything fancy. Just 'a little' better for night driving?

==========

'05 SRT-4, stageII wga, and considering a cai, but not AEM cai, as I had one and nothing but headaches with it.
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Old 05-24-2009, 03:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Silverstars and end thread
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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x2...............
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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go retro
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Old 05-29-2009, 09:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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9007 is the correct stock bulb. Any hue on the glass means you were not getting the maximum output. GE made some lights called "Nighthawk" that were the hottest allowed by law (1000 lumen, low beam). Regular silverstars have a small blue filter like that, and are rated at 1000 lumens. he new silverstar ultra had no filter and thus throws down more light.

If you want to stick with a 9007 bulb, the first mod you should do is get your bulbs on relays. That will make sure your bulb actually gets 14.4v instead of the lower amount the mfs switch sends.

Then, if you are willing to be a jerk (and illegal), you can run higher-wattage bulbs. 55w is standard low beam, so moving up to a higher wattage would be brighter. I say "jerk" because headlight design is very complex and if you increase the lumens far beyond the designed-for optics, then you blind the crap out of everybody.

FWIW I run regular silverstars and a relay kit. I would run the 'ultras or nighthawks, but I got a ton of regular silverstars on clearance at wallyworld.

There is nothing better than a properly designed HID retrofit. A lot of HID kits throw down over 3000 lumens (legally) and do not blind other drivers because the optics are designed for it and focus it on the road instead of all over the place.
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Old 05-30-2009, 10:34 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 3chord View Post
9007 is the correct stock bulb. Any hue on the glass means you were not getting the maximum output. GE made some lights called "Nighthawk" that were the hottest allowed by law (1000 lumen, low beam). Regular silverstars have a small blue filter like that, and are rated at 1000 lumens. he new silverstar ultra had no filter and thus throws down more light.

If you want to stick with a 9007 bulb, the first mod you should do is get your bulbs on relays. That will make sure your bulb actually gets 14.4v instead of the lower amount the mfs switch sends.

Then, if you are willing to be a jerk (and illegal), you can run higher-wattage bulbs. 55w is standard low beam, so moving up to a higher wattage would be brighter. I say "jerk" because headlight design is very complex and if you increase the lumens far beyond the designed-for optics, then you blind the crap out of everybody.

FWIW I run regular silverstars and a relay kit. I would run the 'ultras or nighthawks, but I got a ton of regular silverstars on clearance at wallyworld.

There is nothing better than a properly designed HID retrofit. A lot of HID kits throw down over 3000 lumens (legally) and do not blind other drivers because the optics are designed for it and focus it on the road instead of all over the place.

Good info. I have not seen night hawks in a long time. Can you send me a PM with a photo of this relay you are talking about.Thanks
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Old 05-30-2009, 01:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Guten tag!

This is an excellent site about automotive lighting. If you are still in Deutschland, you might have e-code housings, in which case they throw the light on the road better than the DOT standard used in North America. If that is your case, you could use overwatt bulbs as long as you used relays and didn't go too far (You can melt the connector or housing if you get too crazy on the wattage)

This describes the idea behind using relays to supply power to the bulbs: Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

One other thing, You can use osram silverstar bulbs in Europe. They are not the same as the Silvania Silverstar we have here, they are better. They do not tint the lenses, so you get more light on the road.

You can buy pre-made relay kits on ebay and other places, but if you don't mind doing some soldering/splicing you can do it yourself a little bit cheaper and customize it for your vehicle.
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Old 05-30-2009, 04:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 3chord View Post
Guten tag!

This is an excellent site about automotive lighting. If you are still in Deutschland, you might have e-code housings, in which case they throw the light on the road better than the DOT standard used in North America. If that is your case, you could use overwatt bulbs as long as you used relays and didn't go too far (You can melt the connector or housing if you get too crazy on the wattage)

This describes the idea behind using relays to supply power to the bulbs: Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

One other thing, You can use osram silverstar bulbs in Europe. They are not the same as the Silvania Silverstar we have here, they are better. They do not tint the lenses, so you get more light on the road.

You can buy pre-made relay kits on ebay and other places, but if you don't mind doing some soldering/splicing you can do it yourself a little bit cheaper and customize it for your vehicle.

Cool I will look into this. I'm American and bought my car in Texas. I am just stationed here in the Army. I am going to search for those bulbs though. Thaks a lot man.
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Old 05-30-2009, 06:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by tanker19kilo View Post
I am just stationed here in the Army..

No thank you man, stay safe out there.
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