How To: HID & Relay Harness Install For NSRT-4 - SRT Forums

-ND4SPD- · 03-26-2009, 12:08 PM

Here's how I installed my 35w Slim Ballast HID's & Relay Harness on my car. I'm not claiming this is the only way or the best way, just what I came up with.

Next, any of you who know me also knows my car is well kept & usually spotless but... this may be the dirtiest my car has ever been. It's still winter in Colorado so deal with it.

Tools you'll Need
8mm & 10mm sockets
Ratchet
Various size extentions (the longer the better)
10mm wrench
Torx bit screw drivers
Drill & drill bits
Velcro/ double sided sticky pads
Zip ties

Time Needed
This is assuming you take your time, zip tie & make a clean OEM looking install. If you're experiences with modding & electrinics it's not a problem. If you're new, it may take you a while to get it all sorted out. Don't rush, it's not a race. Remember- If you didn't have the time to do it right the 1st time, you must have the time to do it right the 2nd time.

Experienced = 4hrs
Intermediate = 6hrs
Newbie = 8hrs

Getting Started
I'm assuming you all know how to take your bumper off (if you don't then theres plenty of good "How To's" on FMIC installs that detail the process). You don't have to remove it but it'll sure make things easier. I've got it down to about 35-45 minutes now. If it's your 1st time removing it, plan on 1.5 hours. This is also the step where you'll use most of the tools mentioned above.

Here's a quick re-cap:
(3) 8mm screws on the top
(5) 8mm screws on the bottom
(2) Torx screws per side to undo the fender well guards
(3) 10mm nuts per side securing the bumper to the fenders
Undo all the wires going to bulbs so you can lay the bumper to the side
(2) 8mm bolts per headlight to remove them
Undo all the wires going to bulbs so you can lay the headlights to the side

Relay Harness Wiring

Disconnect your negative terminal on the battery whenever you're working on electrical (it's not disconnected in the pic but trust me I did it when installing)

Lay out your Relay Harness & become familiar with what's going to where?

Run the wires loosly through the engine bay to get a feel for where things are going, how they're getting there, & how you're going to secure everything.

Positive wire

Relay mounted above Transmission/ BOV area

Driver's side wires pulled through through opening

Passenger side wires ran across

HID Ballasts
Start scoping out where you're going to mount your ballast. I've seen lot's of people put them in the fenderwells but they are exposed to lost of grime, weather, abuse there. Even though they are weatherproof, they're still electronics. I've also seen them put in the engine bay but again the heat could reduce the lifespan of the ballasts.

There are 2 really good locations in my opinion which will stay cleaner then the fenderwells & cooler then the engine bay. They will still see their dose of each but I feel they are a nice compromise.

#1 Behind/ under the headlights

#2 Above the front mount intercooler's mounting points

I'm putting the headlight ballasts in location #2 as I'm going to put the ballasts for my fogs in the #2 location on down the road. Choose whichever one suits you best.

Now you need to determine what method you're going to mount them with. Many kits come with metal "T" brackets, double sided sticky foam or rubber pads. Many ballast also have holsse for securing with screws or bolts. I chose Velcro which may seem wierd but I need something not so permanent due to my switching out ballasts to test & trying different ones all the time so this is easist for me. Again, choose whatever you're comfortable with.

Industrial Strength Velcro available at Lowes / Home Depot

Cut out the sizes you'll need & secure them to the ballast & igniters (little boxes 1/2 way along the wires).

-ND4SPD- · 03-26-2009, 12:09 PM

Time to start test fitting the ballast location with the headlight in. You location may vary based upon the type of ballast & the style headlight. I tested this spot to check clearence with both the projector style & stock style headlamp. When you find a spot you like make sure you clean it well. I used some goo gone to get the oily, sticky, grime off. This will allow a good bond for the velcro.

Use a pencil or marker to mark the final location. The nice part about the velcro is you can re-stick it where you want for minor adjustments & just cut a new strip for major adjustments. If you choose a different mounting method that's fine, everything still applies except you'll drill holes or whatever at this point instead. I like having something under the ballast (rubber, foam, velcro, pad) to provide a little vibration dampening. This was pretty important with the older analog style ballasts but now with these new digital ones, it's more of a precaution then a necessity.

Driver's Side

Looking from the front of the headlight

Looking down at the top of the headlight

Passenger Side

Looking at the front of the headlight

Looking down at the top of the headlight

-ND4SPD- · 03-26-2009, 12:10 PM

Testing

Now go ahead & reconnect your ground to the battery. They turn on your headlights. All ballasts take a few seconds to warn up. During this time they make a slight buzzing noise & the bulbs will glow a greenish color. Don't worry, this is normal.

If you hear a clicking noise or they are flickering then you have an issue. Turn the light back off & re-trace you steps. Make sure the wires are firmly & properly connected on the following.

- Positive connection
- Both ground wires
- Both ballast connections
- Main wire to factory 9007 connector
- Bulbs are plugged in

Hope this was helpful? If I missed something, mixed something up, or whatever... please let me know. Enjoy your new lighting!

wiggyx · 03-26-2009, 12:43 PM

Good write up

I did just about the same, but I 3M taped the relay below the driver side headlight so that it's not visible from inside the engine bay.

LilSparkPlug · 03-26-2009, 04:04 PM

Very nice write up

-ND4SPD- · 03-27-2009, 12:37 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by wiggyx

Good write up

I did just about the same, but I 3M taped the relay below the driver side headlight so that it's not visible from inside the engine bay.

With the way this harness is made that wasn't possible but the thought crossed my mind. When I go to do the fogs I'll probably extend the power wire so I can mount the relay elsewhere. Thats sort of advanced stuff for most people who would be following this "How To" anyway so this is probably best.

wiggyx · 03-27-2009, 04:04 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by -ND4SPD-

With the way this harness is made that wasn't possible but the thought crossed my mind. When I go to do the fogs I'll probably extend the power wire so I can mount the relay elsewhere. Thats sort of advanced stuff for most people who would be following this "How To" anyway so this is probably best.

I used the same harness (retrofitsource), I think I just ran the 12v lead down the other side of the battery and that gave me just enough wire to get it below the lamp. It was pretty tight though, for sure. I have to pull mine for some tweaking soon, so I'll post a pic of what I did.

aww sheet · 03-27-2009, 08:33 PM

good job man

BostonSRT · 03-27-2009, 09:18 PM

hope i can follow this and not mess anything up

War_Advocate · 04-06-2009, 10:39 PM

Im new to this stuff and have a few questions, been reading for hours and haven't found exactly the answer im looking for. Can i use the bi xenon bulbs with stock housing? If not where's a good place to buy a housing that i can. Also do i need a relay on the fog lights since i wouldn't use bi xenon bulbs on them?

wiggyx · 04-06-2009, 10:58 PM

Here's that pic I was talking about. I forgot that I actually ran it from the fuse box terminal, which gives you another 7 or 8 inches of wire to work with.

Novak94 · 04-06-2009, 11:12 PM

^^^ haha i was just gonna mention that
I did the same thing(run it from the fuse box terminal). I actually tucked my relay box between the fuse box and fender were no one can see it