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Old 04-23-2006, 03:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default HID Relay Help

hey guys i just bought a plug-n-play hid kit for my srt4 off ebay(HIXEN or something) , it came with no relay so i bought one from a website and i got everything hooked up as it states. The only problem im having is when i have my car on and i turn my headlights on they stay on even if i turn the switch off they will still be on, then when i turn my car off they will go off. When the car isnt on my relay system works flawlessly they go on and off with the headlight switch no problem at all. i drew up a picture of how i wired the relay up. hope you guys can problem solve this for me cause im sure stumped.
BTW im up in canada and my car has fogs as my daytime running lights.

oh yeah, there was 3 wires going to the 9007 connector. purple(headlight switch?), red(highbeam switch?), and black(ground?).
i used the purple one for my swtiched source on the relay.
heres the pic:
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Old 04-23-2006, 12:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default I had the same problem

I bought some retros from Hak, and I had the same problem. The relay trigger wire was off the purple low beam wire. But with the Canadian cars and the daytime running lights, as soon as the car started the relay would energize and lights would turn on.

So after checking the wiring a million time and different grounds, I just gave up and ran a switch into the center console to trigger the relay. Then I had a new problem. I had the stock bulbs out and the connectors taped up, but then the daytime running lights wouldn't work. So I was about ready to freak. I plugged a stock bulb into the stock connector, and I had the DRL's again. So I think with the Canadian cars there is a small voltage running through the low beam (purple) wire when the car is on. Not enough to turn the headlights on, but needed to run the DRL's and enough to energize the relay.

So until I figure it out, I have a stock bulb plugged into one stock plug (sorta ghetto hidden under the hood) and a seperate switch in the console to turn the lights on.

Hopefully some of that explains your issues

Jesse
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Old 04-23-2006, 02:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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hopefully yes, its very annoying. i thought the DRL were only the fog lights and nothing to do with the headlights? yea i put a test light up to the purple wire when the car was runnign and there is a small voltage going to it just enough to light the test light up but very dim.
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Old 04-23-2006, 06:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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as the one guy said, i believe you need a load on both headlight connectors to make the drl system run correctly. i only run one connector as well for powering my relay.

from what i've seen you've got a couple of choices.

1. run a second relay in your harness and power each hid from it's own harness. this will put a load on both headlight connectors.

2. put a bulb into the second headlight connector (yay, 3 lights)

3. put a dummy load onto the second connector. i measured what sort of resistance is required before the circuit seems to work ok and ended up with 100 ohms. i'm going to be testing a 50 ohm resistor as a dummy load in a few days and see if that works.
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Old 04-23-2006, 06:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for testing my hunch, I just don't know if there is anything that can be done about it. Maybe a resistor or something??? Not sure if there is anything out there that would satisfy both the DRL's low voltage but stop the relay from turning on by itself....I guess we would have to look more into how the DRL's are wired in the car and why for whatever reason the headlights have something to do with the foglight DRL's.

Jesse
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Old 04-23-2006, 06:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by sschung
as the one guy said, i believe you need a load on both headlight connectors to make the drl system run correctly. i only run one connector as well for powering my relay.

from what i've seen you've got a couple of choices.

1. run a second relay in your harness and power each hid from it's own harness. this will put a load on both headlight connectors.

2. put a bulb into the second headlight connector (yay, 3 lights)

3. put a dummy load onto the second connector. i measured what sort of resistance is required before the circuit seems to work ok and ended up with 100 ohms. i'm going to be testing a 50 ohm resistor as a dummy load in a few days and see if that works.

Right now I am running your option 2.. it works, but I don't like it.

Option 3 seems like the way to go, let us know if you figure anything out!!
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Old 04-24-2006, 01:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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keep in touch as to what work and get back to us ASAP . this is kinda weird casue we all have threads on hidplanet and on srtforums with the same problems, lol. silver05 in from sylvan lake, ill be heading up to edmonton to race in a couple weeks we should meet up!

i had option 2 as well but i didnt know what to do with the 3rd light lol. what if i smash the bulb will it still act as a load ?? im gonna try it soon. also where can i buy a 100 ohm resistor??
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Old 04-24-2006, 01:38 AM   #8 (permalink)
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so i woudl have to wire the resistor from the positive wire(purple) then where does the other end go??. hah man i wa just messin around with options and i accidently touched the pos and neg wires together and fryed a fuse in my fusebox, it was the 15 A headlight one,
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Old 04-24-2006, 10:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Damn you Canucks

On one hand most of us are inveious of you guys getting to run the fogs as your DRLs but on the other, we (US folks) have a much easier time with the upgraded relay harness.
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Old 04-24-2006, 11:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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hey kids, i'll test out my resistor tonight and let you know.

on the bright side, at least our DRL run off the fogs so we're not burning up preciou$$ HID bulbs for nothing. it's about as good as you can get for DRLs.

just a note, this isn't a regular circuit board resistor that you can run. the one i've got is rated for 10 watts and is quite beefy to dissipate all that heat. you can't find this at radio shack but will have to go to an electronics supplier. it was $1.50. i calculated a ~5W 50 resistor is required for a 15V load but it's a good idea to go higher if you can for the heat sink ability. i'll probably bump up to a 20W resistor if this works out. the 10W gets pretty warm. i don't have the hi beam wired right now (capped) as i don't think you'll need it.

edit: although your fuses will save you be very careful about what you put into place as your load. even with 15 volts stuff can heat up fast enough to start a fire!

Last edited by sschung : 04-24-2006 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 04-24-2006, 02:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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alright ill head into town to an electronic store i know of and see what they have,, what do you reccomend for my resistor? llike ohm rating and W rating??? thanks in advance
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Old 04-24-2006, 02:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by haknslash
Damn you Canucks

On one hand most of us are inveious of you guys getting to run the fogs as your DRLs but on the other, we (US folks) have a much easier time with the upgraded relay harness.

the funny thing is when i first bought my car i seen the "foglight mod" and i was like whoa man my car already came with the fog light mod sweet, then i later was informed all CND srt4s have the fogs as DRL.
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Old 04-25-2006, 03:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by sschung
hey kids, i'll test out my resistor tonight and let you know.

on the bright side, at least our DRL run off the fogs so we're not burning up preciou$$ HID bulbs for nothing. it's about as good as you can get for DRLs.

just a note, this isn't a regular circuit board resistor that you can run. the one i've got is rated for 10 watts and is quite beefy to dissipate all that heat. you can't find this at radio shack but will have to go to an electronics supplier. it was $1.50. i calculated a ~5W 50 resistor is required for a 15V load but it's a good idea to go higher if you can for the heat sink ability. i'll probably bump up to a 20W resistor if this works out. the 10W gets pretty warm. i don't have the hi beam wired right now (capped) as i don't think you'll need it.

edit: although your fuses will save you be very careful about what you put into place as your load. even with 15 volts stuff can heat up fast enough to start a fire!


so how did it work? how did u wire up the resistor? like just to the purple wire then where did u connect the other side of ther resistor?
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Old 04-25-2006, 06:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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k man i bought a 10W 47 ohm resistor and a 25W 47 ohm resistor. what shoud i use and how shoud i wire this thing in there?? it says NON_FLAMABLE on the box of the resistor.
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Old 04-26-2006, 09:35 AM   #15 (permalink)
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sorry, i didn't get a chance to test anything at all. i've been working late night OT the past while. i might get a chance to try some stuff out tonight.

you'll need to wire the resistors into the low beam and ground of the connector. i don't know if the high beam needs a resistor or not but i wouldn't think so. make sure you cap any bare wire so you don't have a short.

i don't really know if the resistors will work. i just had my pot hooked up and kept turning down the resistance until my headlights shut off and measured the resistance (came up at ~100 ohm). but if you get a chance try them out. with a 10W rating it shouldn't hurt anything. just keep an eye on the resistors at first to see how much they heat up. if a single resistor doesn't work try both in series. that should give you ~100 ohms.

ps. i broke a bulb and made that into a connector so i would have to hack up my stock wiring.
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