I just brought a digital Hid kit and the place I got it from said I don't need a relay with a digital ballist because it has it's own
built in power source true or false?
I just brought a digital Hid kit and the place I got it from said I don't need a relay with a digital ballist because it has it's own
built in power source true or false?
Every installer on Boston rd in the bx ny said with a digital ballist you don't need a relay, so I installed them yesterday and no problems so far. Guys me a favor and check your ballist and see if it say digital on it. I
can still buy a relay harness i'm just gonna have to buy it online.
I just brought a digital Hid kit and the place I got it from said I don't need a relay with a digital ballist because it has it's own
built in power source true or false?
False
It's true that the newer digital ballasts are much better then the old analog's but a relay is still advised. It's cheap & easy to install (cheaper & easier then replacing the factory wiring).
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The relay just goes up to the battery and then you put the ground wire to the frame? I was looking at your how to install hid kit and it looks more complicated then what it was to do... It only took me 45 mins tops to install the hid kit without the relay. The lights turn on ok but when they first start up they start slow then it goes on fully in one then passenger side.... The kit I have has the Hi-Lo beam. So if I do the fog lights because I was gonna order them do I have to run two relays? That's gonna be a mess of wires. Thanks for any input.
I had someone else ask me via PM about the need for a relay. I figured it was good info & relevant to this post.
Upon HID start up it shoots 23,000V from the ballasts to "fire off" the bulbs. It can momentarily draw anywhere from 6-15amps (depends on the quality of the kit). These are far above what the stock wiring was meant to handle.
New digital slim ballasts kits have come a long way from the older analog kits. They have cool features like reverse polarity protection, overload protection, etc... unfortunately they are there just to save your ballast from frying. What is there to protect your cars's electrical from frying?
Using a relay wiring harness is a cheap & easy added safety measure. It provides a power & ground source separate from the vehicles. If something fry's, it'll be just the relay harness & not your car's electrical. $25 to do it right the 1st time worth the $$$ & time to replace the factory wiring if you fry it? Is it worth the time messing with blown fuses, or being stick driving at night with no lights? I think it is so that's why I refuse to sell an HID kit withut one. If I wouldn't put it on my car I wouldn't put it on yours either.
Really it's your choice, many people run HID's without & claim to not have any issues. There's just no way of knowing when & if it may happen to you. Being proactive is the key besides... we're talking $25 friggin' bucks. Don't be cheap & ghetto... if you love your car like I do then you'll see it's worth it.
I don't care if you buy stuff from me or go with an ebay seller. I just hate seeing people buy junky stuff or waste their money & not be happy. Often the difference in price is because leaving out extra's (like a relay harness) so they can battle it out on price with others. I agree that many things can be had for a bargain if you know what you're doing. One thing I've learned though is that you get what you pay for on ebay.
I had someone else ask me via PM about the need for a relay. I figured it was good info & relevant to this post.
Upon HID start up it shoots 23,000V from the ballasts to "fire off" the bulbs. It can momentarily draw anywhere from 6-15amps (depends on the quality of the kit). These are far above what the stock wiring was meant to handle.
New digital slim ballasts kits have come a long way from the older analog kits. They have cool features like reverse polarity protection, overload protection, etc... unfortunately they are there just to save your ballast from frying. What is there to protect your cars's electrical from frying?
Using a relay wiring harness is a cheap & easy added safety measure. It provides a power & ground source separate from the vehicles. If something fry's, it'll be just the relay harness & not your car's electrical. $25 to do it right the 1st time worth the $$$ & time to replace the factory wiring if you fry it? Is it worth the time messing with blown fuses, or being stick driving at night with no lights? I think it is so that's why I refuse to sell an HID kit withut one. If I wouldn't put it on my car I wouldn't put it on yours either.
Really it's your choice, many people run HID's without & claim to not have any issues. There's just no way of knowing when & if it may happen to you. Being proactive is the key besides... we're talking $25 friggin' bucks. Don't be cheap & ghetto... if you love your car like I do then you'll see it's worth it.
I don't care if you buy stuff from me or go with an ebay seller. I just hate seeing people buy junky stuff or waste their money & not be happy. Often the difference in price is because leaving out extra's (like a relay harness) so they can battle it out on price with others. I agree that many things can be had for a bargain if you know what you're doing. One thing I've learned though is that you get what you pay for on ebay.
the way it looks everyone looks like that use the same kinda relay harness...with the exception of this one place, so it does pay to look for the best price. i'll buy 5 relays if i had to i'm not cheap(just lazy sometimes) but i was just thinking about the amount of space i have to work with. thats why i was asking....all those wires two ballist plus two relays running up two the battery is alot.....but if thats the right way i'll make it happen. thanks for your input on this i appreciate it....i'm gonna have to buy a slim ballist for the fogs no room next to the windshield washer bottle.
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