that's the porting kit I already have and getting another one is cheap as fuck.
I think I could pass emissions with 03/04 heads with 96-98 cams but damn that way will be much more expensive and I will have go with a short runner intake. But I could put 350 to the ground easily.
that's the porting kit I already have and getting another one is cheap as fuck.
I think I could pass emissions with 03/04 heads with 96-98 cams but damn that way will be much more expensive and I will have go with a short runner intake. But I could put 350 to the ground easily.
nice kit.
and how much more is the 03/04 head vs. your stock heads?
and how much more power out of that setup?
if you go stock heads ported, can u do other mods for cheaper that would get you to 350 w/ the same amount or less money than buying 03 heads?
and how much more is the 03/04 head vs. your stock heads?
and how much more power out of that setup?
if you go stock heads ported, can u do other mods for cheaper that would get you to 350 w/ the same amount or less money than buying 03 heads?
if I go with a set of stock heads and port my own intake I'll be spending like $300 max.
If I go with 03/04 heads w/96-98 cams I'll be spending like $800+ just on heads then I will HAVE to go to a different intake anyways so there's another $300+. So $1200 or so and I would be able to put down $350.
Going the other route and using a short runner intake I can put down 320-330. I just don't see a point in spending almost $1000 more just for 20-30hp IMO. Plus I'll be running 12s either way you look at it. With some weight reduction and 320 to the wheels it should run mid 12s all day long. I'm perfectly happy with that. Especially if my entire budget for the aftermarket parts ends up being like $1000-1500 instead of like $3k
As much as I would LOVE to have a badass heads/cam/intake setup it's just not cost effective vs how much power I would get out of it.
ouch. expensive.
im all about budget building. thats all my car is made of. im sure porting the stockers will do good.
im sure your tune and removal of all those cats will make up for it.
as long as u dont lose to iszi...
shit if I lose to him I will personally hand you the keys to my car so you can go drive it off a cliff
Did I tell you an 02+ 330 raced me coming home from Modesto on Saturday night? He jumped on me twice and I reeled him in both times by 100 and then started to put mad lengths on him. His buddy just gave me the thumbs up Of course your giving me the thumbs dude. You jump on me twice and I still win
shit if I lose to him I will personally hand you the keys to my car so you can go drive it off a cliff
Did I tell you an 02+ 330 raced me coming home from Modesto on Saturday night? He jumped on me twice and I reeled him in both times by 100 and then started to put mad lengths on him. His buddy just gave me the thumbs up Of course your giving me the thumbs dude. You jump on me twice and I still win
nice kill. what was all done to it?
man bro. im personally excited to see you put that tune, head, exh,gears in.
are you gunna tune yourself, or a shop?
man bro. im personally excited to see you put that tune, head, exh,gears in.
are you gunna tune yourself, or a shop?
would headers at that point help at all?
I'll be doing my own tuning. Much more cost effective. I just need to learn all the safe ratios for these motors. Stock AFR on these things is like 10.8:1 or some shit like that. Rich as fuck from the factor. I just need to find out what ideal stoichometric AFR is on these and I'll be set. Probably somewhere in the 12-13 range
oh and I have no clue about the 330. Just some kid in one with dealer plates on it, probably bought it from one of those fucked up dealerships that rape the piss out of you. He thought he was tough shit and rolled up next to me and was wanting me to play so I downshifted and he took off as I was doing it so I plowed forward and showed him whats up. The probably run what like mid 14s stock? Probably not a very fast car and my shits still slow but at least I've never lost a race yet
I'll be doing my own tuning. Much more cost effective. I just need to learn all the safe ratios for these motors. Stock AFR on these things is like 10.8:1 or some shit like that. Rich as fuck from the factor. I just need to find out what ideal stoichometric AFR is on these and I'll be set. Probably somewhere in the 12-13 range
afr's at closed loop driving (idle/cruising) is a target afr of 14.7:1 for All vehicles.
under WOT, im not sure what NA's typically shoot for...but i know its a leaner afr than boosted applications due to less pressure (more chance to knock). so id assume you could prolly tune out to high 12s.
leaning your afr's out alone will get you some big hp.
afr's at closed loop driving (idle/cruising) is a target afr of 14.7:1 for All vehicles.
under WOT, im not sure what NA's typically shoot for...but i know its a leaner afr than boosted applications due to less pressure (more chance to knock). so id assume you could prolly tune out to high 12s.
leaning your afr's out alone will get you some big hp.
that shit complicating (the software)?
yeah that's the true definition of stoichometric AFR
My truck ran great at 13.2 with the mods I had. I'm going to need a wideband though once I get the upgraded software. I don't want to just trust what the computer is telling me I want to really see what I'm running.
oh and as far as the software goes I have no clue yet. It should be here today so my car will be semi tuned tonight most likely. Once I upgrade to the next level software will be when I really get technical and start tuning each fuel cell and different RPMs.
I'll only be able to make minor air/fuel and spark changes right now. It already calls for me to run 91 so I may not have too much room to play around with to begin with. Once I upgrade though I can try tuning for 87 for daily driving so I can drive around more efficiently then at the track I'll have a badass tune for race gas and run a shit ton of spark
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