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Old 07-09-2008, 02:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Does anyone have experience with the p0340 code?

I was driving to a work party on the 4th of this month and my check engine light turned on. I thought 'odd, I'll check the code when I get there'. A few minutes later, the car starts to stumble and exhibit the common camshaft sensor issues of not going past 2,200 RPMs, etc.

I pulled over, turned the car off, waited a few minutes, turned it back on and drove away without any issues. The check engine light remained on, but all was well. I was only about 2min away from the party location, so I figured I'd just get there, park it and worry about it later. I pulled in, parked, checked the code, called up blazin who told me it was the camshaft sensor and proceeded to try a few things with his instruction. I cleared the code using my scan gauge, fired up the car, and no problems until earlier today.

Again, driving into work (up a friggin' hill) check engine light turns on and the RPMs drop to 2,200 and below. I pull across three lanes of traffic and sit on the side of the road. I double check the code, it's the same p0340 and clear it again using the scan gauge. I fire up the car after, and it runs fine the rest of the 10min into work.

SOOO...with all that said, I did a bunch of research on the forums and this is what I came up with:

* Check grounds on car, especially around PCM
* Unplug CPS, turn car on (with CKPS plugged in)
* Unplug CKPS, turn car on (with CPS plugged in)
* p0340 doesn't necessarily indicate the sensor, as it speaks to the circuit of which the sensor is only a part. Could be grounds, could be electrical related (harness)

Quotes from various people on the forums in these threads:

Quote: Originally Posted by a853rox
I too had this code (p0340) and although replacing the CPS did fix my problems, keep in mind that a bad wiring harness, a faulty ground in the circuit, or even the PCM itself can be to blame. P0340 is the entire circuit and not just the sensor....

Quote: Originally Posted by SkullingAxe
Also be sure to check the wiring down around the Bellhousing of the trans. I've seen it in the dealer where the wiring harness is too tight around the bell housing. The wires will rub through and ground out/go open circuit, or they will be pulled on to hard during wot runs and eventually fray like the TPS wiring. You'll have to take the air box out and wiggle the harness around.

The CMP and CKP sensors all go to the orange connector on the PCM. I forget which pins it is but you may need to use a multi-meter and trace the wiring. If you do, DO NOT probe the pins from the front side with a pin or paper clip. You can spread the pins and they will never make a good contact again.

The best way to check a CKP(crank sensor) or CMP (cam sensor) is with a lab scope.

Bryan

Quote: Originally Posted by thepowertowin
The car will start off of just the cam, or just the crank sensor. So unplug one and try starting it, and then unplug the other and try starting it. It WILL take twice as long to start though. But if it starts w/ the sensor that is plugged in, you're probably looking at the other. If it still doesn't start, it could be wiring.

I've ordered a new crank sensor, cam sensor and cam magnet as a precaution. I'm going to take the time to troubleshoot a bit by isolating the issue first and I'll be sure to report back what was up. In the meantime, if anyone had any additional advice/information to offer, I wanted to throw it out there.

Thanks,
Josh
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Old 07-09-2008, 02:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It is either a bad sensor or something wrong with the wiring.

Check and make sure you have sufficiant power going through the wires and good ground, no resistance, etc etc. Check for frays, cuts etc find somewhere where it possibly could have been shorted. Wiggle the wires to try to duplicate the condition.

Typicaly the right way to test these issues is with a lab scope, which to be honest no one really has anymore, not even dealerships...

I am willing to bet its going to end up being an issue with the wiring and not the sensor itself so check it out really good.
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Old 07-09-2008, 02:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Mr.SRT4 View Post
It is either a bad sensor or something wrong with the wiring.

Check and make sure you have sufficiant power going through the wires and good ground, no resistance, etc etc. Check for frays, cuts etc find somewhere where it possibly could have been shorted. Wiggle the wires to try to duplicate the condition.

Typicaly the right way to test these issues is with a lab scope, which to be honest no one really has anymore, not even dealerships...

I am willing to bet its going to end up being an issue with the wiring and not the sensor itself so check it out really good.

I sincerely hope it's not the wiring. =/ It'd be much simpler to replace the sensor, vs. having to either work on, or replace the harness.

It seems this isn't that uncommon, as the CPS tends to get dirtied by oil and such. Either way, I'm going to talk to blazin to make sure it's looked over thoroughly and done right.

This is the first 'real' issue I've had with my car in two years, so I'm kinda documenting it and making sure I educate myself.
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Old 07-09-2008, 02:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Its not to bad. If you know how to sauder and the wiring is the problem is no big deal really.

You could try taking off the CMP (cam sensor) and wiping it off. Doubt that will do much though.

Good luck.
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Old 07-09-2008, 02:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Mr.SRT4 View Post
Its not to bad. If you know how to sauder and the wiring is the problem is no big deal really.

You could try taking off the CMP (cam sensor) and wiping it off. Doubt that will do much though.

Good luck.

Definitely...and thanks.
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Old 07-09-2008, 04:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Mr.SRT4 View Post
Its not to bad. If you know how to sauder and the wiring is the problem is no big deal really.

You could try taking off the CMP (cam sensor) and wiping it off. Doubt that will do much though.

Good luck.

what Mr. srt4 said, I had the same thing, replaced the cam sensor, that was close to the battery after that never had a problem with the car since
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Old 07-09-2008, 04:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 909Sxt View Post
what Mr. srt4 said, I had the same thing, replaced the cam sensor, that was close to the battery after that never had a problem with the car since

Good to know. That's all I hope I have to do.
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Old 08-27-2008, 02:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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anyone know how much the sensor is going to run me?
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Old 08-27-2008, 02:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I can't find my invoice...and I can't remember. It's something like $30 for the sensor, and $20 for the magnet. Or...more. Under $100 for sure.
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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got mine from autozone...... yeah autozone....only sunday the zone is open no dealer..... its like $28 or $30 slap that sucker on no problem since. its been 8months now
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Old 08-27-2008, 08:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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oh thank god I was expecting it to be way more....so all I have to do for the replacement is undue the 2 bolts holding on the sensor, unclip the sensor and just plug in the new sensor re-bolt it and drive...?
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Old 08-27-2008, 09:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by IDriveANeon00 View Post
oh thank god I was expecting it to be way more....so all I have to do for the replacement is undue the 2 bolts holding on the sensor, unclip the sensor and just plug in the new sensor re-bolt it and drive...?

yes sir..... i think mine went bad because of my 3" intake keep hitting on the side of the sensor.
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Old 08-27-2008, 11:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Keep in mind, there's also a magnet. My magnet is what was causing my sensor to fail. I could have just replaced the magnet and kept my sensor, but I decided to replace both for good measure.

S&P sells both the sensor and magnet.
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Old 08-28-2008, 01:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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How the hell do I put on the magnet??? could this all be done with out removing the valve cover??
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