hey guys, im in a bit of jam...last night something happend while i was street tuning the car. I was driving the car, getting some good air fuels, and I went to WOT shift from 3rd to 4th, but I accidentally slammed into 2nd gear and tacked out at 8,000rpms... My battery light came on about 20 seconds later, so I pulled over and left the car running. I didnt hear any knock, and pings, no noise at all but I noticed that my alternator belt had shredded off and was dragging off a pulley. I pulled the rest of the belt off and managed to make it to my friends house. There was a slight vibration noise on the ride home, but I thought it may have just been the loose pulleys shaking around due to the fact that there were no belts holding them on. After I put on my new alternator belt today, I went to start the car and it backfired real bad, like a shotgun blast, and then it started knocking. I turned off the car and let it sit for a minute then started it again. No backfire this time, but the car has a slight knock, it doesnt sound fast or violent enough to be a knock in the block itself, for example a snapped rod or anything like that, but I feel like there is something loose, or broken inside my engine. I feel more vibration from the valve cover than in the oil pan. So i took off the valve cover and everything from the top end looks good. Does anyone know what could have happened here? Ive blown a motor before due to a snapped rod and it doesnt really sound anything like this, this sound is too slow and calm, not as violent and rapid as a snapped rod. I plan on tearing the head off tomorrow and starting to look for problems there. Any advice on where to look would be awesome guys! PLEASE ANY INPUT WOULD HELP!!! I need to get my baby back on the street for my dyno runs!! Thanks!
1. our trannies make it impossible to down shift like that, you'll miss a gear, but you wont get it into second, im pretty sure the syncros lock you out of the low gears when at high rpms.
2. if you realy did rev to 8k (wich the stock ecu wouldnt allow, so you must have an ems), its possible you broke the belt tentioner, wich woulld explain the belt coming of and the noise you hear.
i am SCT flashed to 7k, redline and the tranny does let that happen because it happend to me last night..i dont think it could be a tensioner..any other ideas?
not impossible to shift from 3 to second i have done it before and hit like 7500rpms
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fuck, should i just put it mostly back to stock and take it back to dodge or should i just try to do it myself? i have experience with taking the engine apart but i really dont want to go threw the hassle again..what do you think?
1. our trannies make it impossible to down shift like that, you'll miss a gear, but you wont get it into second, im pretty sure the syncros lock you out of the low gears when at high rpms.
2. if you realy did rev to 8k (wich the stock ecu wouldnt allow, so you must have an ems), its possible you broke the belt tentioner, wich woulld explain the belt coming of and the noise you hear.
You're wrong on 2 counts!!!
1. It is ENTIRELY possible to WOT down-shift at redline...I too have done it in the past on more than one occasion...SCARY experience. Fortunately the motor stayed together, and is currently holding around 600 WHP w/out any complaints (at the moment, anyway).
2. It doesn't require an EMS to Mechanically over-rev the motor! If you down-shift from redline (or in other words, just over 6K on a stock ECU), the motor will be forced to over-rev due to the gear multiplication factor and the speed of the car...It's not that hard to imagine. Now, the car will cut either spark or fuel (or maybe both) beyond the redline, but that doesn't mean the motor wasn't over-revved! It still spun that quick, and it is definitely not good on the motor by any means.
With the Honda guys, typically if they mis-shift like that and over-rev the motor during a pass at the track, the oil pump takes a crap on the following run...assuming the motor didn't let go at the moment of the over-rev. Just happened a couple of weeks ago to a local here!
hey guys, im in a bit of jam...last night something happend while i was street tuning the car. I was driving the car, getting some good air fuels, and I went to WOT shift from 3rd to 4th, but I accidentally slammed into 2nd gear and tacked out at 8,000rpms... My battery light came on about 20 seconds later, so I pulled over and left the car running. I didnt hear any knock, and pings, no noise at all but I noticed that my alternator belt had shredded off and was dragging off a pulley. I pulled the rest of the belt off and managed to make it to my friends house. There was a slight vibration noise on the ride home, but I thought it may have just been the loose pulleys shaking around due to the fact that there were no belts holding them on. After I put on my new alternator belt today, I went to start the car and it backfired real bad, like a shotgun blast, and then it started knocking. I turned off the car and let it sit for a minute then started it again. No backfire this time, but the car has a slight knock, it doesnt sound fast or violent enough to be a knock in the block itself, for example a snapped rod or anything like that, but I feel like there is something loose, or broken inside my engine. I feel more vibration from the valve cover than in the oil pan. So i took off the valve cover and everything from the top end looks good. Does anyone know what could have happened here? Ive blown a motor before due to a snapped rod and it doesnt really sound anything like this, this sound is too slow and calm, not as violent and rapid as a snapped rod. I plan on tearing the head off tomorrow and starting to look for problems there. Any advice on where to look would be awesome guys! PLEASE ANY INPUT WOULD HELP!!! I need to get my baby back on the street for my dyno runs!! Thanks!
Now, I'm curious. Are you getting a check engine light at all?
Just one other thing I remembered. 2 of the 3 times I mis-shifted in my car, it caused the flex-plate to come loose. What happens is that the sudden high rpms cause the flex-plate to deflect, and the flywheel bangs into the flexplate to crankshaft bolt heads, and the impact causes them to come loose.
I can ALMOST guarantee that that's you're problem. You can confirm that by removing the dust shield between the trans and motor, and grabbing the clutch/fywheel/flexplate assembly and attempt to move it around. If it does move, even a teensy eensy weensy bit, you have problems. And even if it doesn't move by the force of your hand, it could still have a couple of bolts loose, causing it to vibrate against the crankshaft.
In a situation like this, I would HIGHLY recommend pulling the trans, and checking said bolts! Otherwise, you could be the next victim of a clutch flying through the bell housing of the trans, and out through your hood! The possibility is there that you could be seriously injured from such an occurrence!
Also, if you do have a few bolts loose, don't cheap out and just tighten them up. Replace the bolts, and loctite them. And if the bolt holes in the flexplate are oblong shaped as a result of the bolts loosening, replace the flexplate. Otherwise, you'll be asking for the bolts to loosen up again, without having over-revved the motor.
lol, alright i just need some ideas of stuff to look for, the first motor i blew up was on purpose because i just brought it in for warranty work so they just replaced it..my old motor was beat so i drained the oil and blew it up and they fixed it..maby its karma lol..but anyways maby i will wait, im really considering taking it back to dodge and being like wtf and letting them fix it under warranty especially since they just replaced it..what do you guys think..what do you mean probe the cylinders?
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WOT shift from 3rd to 2nd
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