Guess what guys I've got a FEVER, and the only prescription for it is more Silver.
Here is a myth for you.
A post on these forums has validity even if it doesn't come from an owner of a Silver car.
Which means all these other fastest car comments aren't valid.
+3 Silver.
Edit: All other color SRT's may cause anal bleeding.
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It makes me mad when people say I turned and ran like a scared rabbit. Maybe it was like an angry rabbit, who was going to fight in another fight, away from the first fight.
about putting oil back in from the catch can... this seems to be up in the air. Some people can't see why not. The oil did just come out from your engine, it hasn't been exposed to dirt or air or anything else, unless your pcv/catch can setup sucks and there is a vacuum leak or something.
Someone told me that one reason you wouldn't want to reuse the catch can oil is because condensation forms in the catch can, meaning, water will mix in with the oil in there.
This is true, however, from what I know ANY car will form condensation INSIDE THE ENGINE overnight during weather that causes condesation to form. This is why, on a motor that has the little K & N breather filters installed on the valve cover or whatever, you will often see wisps of smoke coming out of the little filter when the motor is warming up. This is condensation in the oil being 'burned off' as the internals warm up. My other car does this, but once the motor warms up, the smoking stops.
If you've ever drained the oil out of a motor/oil pan when the motor hasn't been properly warmed up first (which you shouldn't do), sometimes there will be some of that 'milkshake' looking stuff which is water mixed into the oil.
Anyways... just to avoid this problem, you could make it a point to ONLY drain your catch can back into your engine AFTER driving the car, the oil is fully warmed up, and all the condensation in the catch can should be evaporated. This is easy for me to see as I have the $20 catch can which is completely see thru, and after driving the car the oil always reverts back to it's dark water free self.
As long as you keep the inside of your catch can clean (I always thoroughly clean mine after draining the oil out of it) and it's working properly, fully sealed and no vacuum leaks, there is really no reason why you shouldn't be able to dump that oil back in the engine. But if there is visible condensation in the oil (even after warming up the car which there shouldn't be but just in case) then it's probably better not to dump that back in the valve cover.
By the way, I had a conversation with two techs at the service department of the dealership where I bought my SRT from, one of whom was actually the first person to advise me to get a catch can to begin with (they've had several owners come back complaining of the leaking oil), and they both said they agreed there was no reason why you shouldn't be able to reuse that oil.
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New Toy:
2007 Mazdaspeed 3 GT, red. Only mods so far: MS CAI, ProSport boost gauge, and a scraped up rear bumper, 250 whp/281 ft lbs
SOLD:
'05 Flame Red SRT-4, lightly modded, too many problems by 16,000 miles, great car otherwise and it will be missed
SRT-4 interiors are teh slow
Second toy:
2007 Civic Si coupe (wife's car), also red (Funny thing is silver is my favorite color...), also stock
If taken care of and maintained properly...the SRT-4 is a reliable car.
heh... I'm starting to wonder. When I wanted to buy one I joined these forums and asked if these cars were reliable and got pretty much an overwhelming "YES!" so I finally went out and bought one.
But I notice a hell of a lot of posts from people having all kinds of funky problems.... makes me wonder.... and worry!
i would sy the car is reliable my car has 1800km around 1000miles or so.. only has mopar conversion bov and i havent had any problems at oil.. a week ago i did his oil change since in the manual says 3 months for ( hard users) or 5 months for soft foot users lol.. but i did right in the 3 month time.... its a vry reliable car
you're trying to judge the reliability of the car based on the first 3 mos of ownership??? come on now be a little more realistic. Reliable to me is a Toyota Corolla getting 300,000 miles in it's lifetime w/o ever rebuilding the engine or trans. Or going 100,000 miles w/o having ANY problems at all, just do the maintanance and go.
I'm not expecting Corolla reliability out of my SRT, but I'll be shocked if I make 30,000 miles with no significant problems, just based on all that I've read here of others ownership experiences.
The stock WGA absolutely cannot hold more than 10-11psi by redline.
Absolutely untrue!!! Many people have observed, especially on stage 1, that the stock WGA can sometimes hold as high as 15psi by redline. Myself, I notice that on my S1 ECU, whenever I reset the ECU, the boost will ALWAYS hold 13-14psi by redline until the computer 'relearns' the curves (usually the first two days), then it will be back down to 11psi by redline. So for whatever reason, it is the COMPUTER that is lowering the boost as rpm climbs, NOT just a function of the WGA being too weak. Some people get consistent 14-15psi by redline on S1 and the stock WGA ALL the time, even after the computer relearns the curve. Maybe they are in better climate or have better fuel, who knows, the point is the stock WGA CAN hold this kind of boost if the PCM lets it! Take control away from the PCM using various methods and you can definately get the stock WGA to hold more than 11psi to redline, you don't need an upgraded WGA to get a higher hold.
i actually say its half and half. that wga spring is weak. what happens if you take away the pcm control of the stock wga? you will boost no more than 4psi. go ahead and try it some time. the wga springs is weak sauce but thats why when the pcm controls boost it boosts 15 at redline.
im going to compare it with my otehr cars the se-r spec v had a bunch of issues in the fist months .. lots of weird noises coming from the dash.. also the wheels arent as durable.. rare transmicion sounds from 2nd to 3rd gear.. etc etc.. in less than 2 months .. lol imnot going to compare it with my bimmers but i can say the cars its just fine for the kind of use i gave it.. and the way some time most of use drive our cars.. i think the cars doesnt come very reliable when some one starts to modify it by his own ( with out having full knowledge about it) myself a dumb illiterate about any mechanic topics.. .. i will tell you how reliable is in 6 months hope to install in that tme my mopar stage 3..
i actually say its half and half. that wga spring is weak. what happens if you take away the pcm control of the stock wga? you will boost no more than 4psi. go ahead and try it some time. the wga springs is weak sauce but thats why when the pcm controls boost it boosts 15 at redline.
you're absolutely right and this is already common knowledge... yeah the stock spring is very weak on it's own and would only hold 4psi if hooked directly to a boost source. I wasn't debating that one bit. What I'm debating is that some think that at very high rpm the force of the exhaust flow will be so strong as to force the wastegate open and cause the turbo to be unable to hold more than 10-11psi by redline. And I'm saying that this seems to be untrue since SEVERAL people have noted that on the stock WGA, hooked up to the stock boost control solenoid, that they have held as high as 15psi by redline.
What I think would be really interesting would be if someone could somehow COMPLETELY cut off any boost signal to the stock WGA above 5000rpm and see just how high the turbo would boost then... this would be the only true indication oh how strong the WGA spring is on it's own, as far as how much exhaust flow/pressure it takes to actually force the wastegate open. I know in my case it can hold up to 14psi by redline before the ECU turns down the fun.
Biggest Myth Ever
you're trying to judge the reliability of the car based on the first 3 mos of ownership??? come on now be a little more realistic. Reliable to me is a Toyota Corolla getting 300,000 miles in it's lifetime w/o ever rebuilding the engine or trans. Or going 100,000 miles w/o having ANY problems at all, just do the maintanance and go.
Linear Mode
