I'm a new SRT-4 owner, and the SRT-4 is my first car of this level of performance and rawness. Thus, a lot of the sensations of the car are new to me, and this has lead me to ask many "is this normal?" questions. To help other new SRT-4 users, here are those questions and answers as well as other common questions.
I am no SRT-4 expert, so bare in mind these answers are not my own. I will try to credit the people that gave me the answer where possible.
As of now, this is only for stock SRT-4s. If you would like to add FAQs for modded cars (such as "I installed a Stage 1 turbo, and now my car does this ______. Is this normal?"), post here and I will copy it to the first post. Additions for stock SRT-4s are welcome as well. Also let me know if you feel any of the answers I posted are wrong.
I don't want to step on the toes of the other stickies, so only submit questions/answers not covered by another sticky.
----
1) At low RPM and in 1st and 2nd gear, I can hear a faint rattling noise from the front of the car. It sounds a little like a rainmaker. You know, those tubes filled with sand that you turn over to make the "sound of rain". It happens when I am at parking lot speed and let off the gas a little bit (happening in conjuction with the pops from the exhaust), but also happens as I gain a little speed, going away at a certain RPM. As I gain a little speed, it sometimes comes in, goes away, comes back etc... rather than being linear with the RPMs. It only happens when I am in gear, not when coasting. Is this normal? What is it?
A) This is normal transmission noise (normal in the SRT-4) and nothing to worry about. (thanks DAN_3KVR4_SRT4 and neonsohc)
----
2) My last car was a basic economy car, and at parking lot speeds the car was smooth. The SRT-4 bumps and writhes while at parking lot speeds. I know I can fix this by using a little clutch, but I want to know if this is normal (I have heard reviewers say that cars such as the Lancer EVO act like this while moving very slow), or if I just suck with the manual and need to use more clutch at these speeds. In other words, should I use more clutch, or just deal with the bucking (I don't mind it)?
A) This is normal and happens a lot with high performance cars as the throttle is very touchy and the engine is not happy when not being pushed. Don't use the clutch to smooth it out, as this puts excess wear on your clutch. (thanks DAN_3KVR4_SRT4 and yourfate)
----
3) My car idles a bit rough. The RPMs don't move up and down, but the car shakes a little and feels like it is misfiring.
A) This is normal. It can be fixed by doing certain mods to the car (some claim it goes away with better sparkplugs), but it is normal for an SRT-4 to do this and nothing to worry about. Performance engines often have rough idles.
----
4) My car shakes after I turn off the engine.
A) This is normal. Make sure you have the clutch *all* the way in when you turn it off, as having it not in all of the way can make the shaking more noticable, but even with the clutch in, this will happen on virtually all SRT-4s.
----
5) My car's engine makes popping and burbling noises at low RPM when I give it less gas, and when I downshift.
A) This is not only normal, but awesome. This happens on most performance engines with low-restriction exhausts.
----
6) Does the SRT-4 really have no mufflers?
A) Yep. It does have 2 resonators, though.
----
7) My boost spikes at ___ and holds at ___.
A) Normal boost for a stock SRT-4 can vary a bit depending on the car (there is always a degree of variation with cars of the same model) and the climate. Stock boost is 14PSI, but it is normal to see peaks of anywhere from 13 to 15PSI and hold anywhere from 12 to 14PSI. If you are in that range, your car is normal. If you are a lot less, then you may have a boost leak, or are using lower-than-91 octane gas. If you put 91 octane gas in, the computer will notice this and change the settings so that you make full boost. My car peaks at 14PSI and holds around 12-13PSI.
Just remember that your boost is based on many conditions. So do not be scared if your boost is a little lower or a little higher than other people, or if it changes from day to day (12-15 peaks are what I call the acceptable range). Also, it is normal for the boost to change a little bit during full-throttle. For example, it will raise to 14, then fall to 12, then go back to 14, then fall again. This is just the engine controller trying to achieve the desired torque. However, if your boost gauge rapidly flutters it may be the sign of a boost leak. This is especially a problem if the car studders while this is happening. (thanks Dr. Who)
Some people say their boost raises to 14 (or so) then falls to 12 (or so) just before redline. This fall just before redline is also normal.
Keep in mind the stock boost gauge is not perfectly accurate. It is a good guide, but don't think of it as the Bible. If your friend's SRT-4 gauge says he boosts at 15 PSI, but you only boost 14 PSI, that doesn't always mean you are making 1 PSI less boost than he is. You may even be boosting more. So don't get too hung up on what the gauge says. (thanks Dr. Who and Bacardi 151)
----
8) As the weather changes, is it normal for my boost to change?
A) Yes. While colder air is denser, and thus, most cars make more power when it is cold, the SRT-4 computer will compensate for this. So when it is colder, you will make *LESS* boost since the computer is lowering the amount of boost to maintain the same horsepower (since the colder air naturally gives you more power).
This does not apply if your using a manual boost controller or aftermarket/ modified wastegate. (thanks noTe)
----
9) What octane gas should I use?
A) The higher the octane, the better the performance. For normal use, 91 octane is recommended. If you use 89 or 87 octane, the computer will compensate and simply lower the boost. You will make less horsepower. The driver's manual says using a lower octane won't harm your engine, but most people say otherwise, and that it will put excess wear on your engine. If you do not experience spark knock, then it is probably okay but not recommended. If you do experience knocking, then it is not okay. Opinions do differ on this. I would never use anything lower than 91 in my SRT-4, but it's up to you. If you put in 87 by accident, it's nothing to worry about. For more powerformance, you can use a higher octane gas and high octane mode (HOM) on the computer. (can someone expand on this?)
----
10) What oil should I use?
A) Opinions differ on this, but Mobil 1 Synthetic oil is a favorite. Which viscosity you should use depends on the climate. (can someone expand on this?)
----
11) How often should I change my oil?
A) Opinions differ on this (again!). Some say every 3K miles, some say every 5K is fine if you use good oil. Some like to change their oil very often when the car is new, then every 3K miles after the first 3-10K miles. There are so many different opinions here that I can't say what is best, so it is really up to you. Personally, I plan on changing my oil every 3K miles and using Mobil 1 Synthetic.
Most people say to leave the break-in oil in the car for the first 1500 miles then to switch to a fully synthetic oil. Some change their oil at 500, or even as low as 50 miles, but they replace the break-in oil with more traditional "dino" oil, not switching to synthetic until 1500 miles.
----
12) What should my boost gauge read when I am not boosting?
A) When idle, your gauge should read around -20PSI. I say "around" because it depends on many factors. Even pushing your brakes down harder while at a stop will move the gauge a little bit. -19, for example, is fine too. It might read -19 one day, then -18 another day. When the car is off, it should read "0". (thanks neonsohc)
----
13) In my SRT-4, the driver side window control has a small blue light in it. However, the passenger-side control on the driver-side door, the window control on the passenger side door, and both power lock controls (both doors) all have the same LED-looking thing in them, but they do not light up. Is this normal, or is only my driver-side window control light working? In other words, all of the window and power lock controls use the same little switch. They all have what looks like a little LED. But only the switch for my driver-side window actually lights up. Are the other LEDs not working?
A) As strange as it seems, this is normal. Only the driver-side window switch lights up. The power sun roof switch also lights up if you have that option on your car. The locks, and passenger window switches do not light up. (thanks neonsohc)
----
14) What is the proper way to break in the SRT-4 engine?
A) Opinions differ on this as well. Some say go easy on it, some say drive the hell out of it. But most people say (and the driver's manual agrees) that you should be fairly easy on the car for the first 300 miles, but that during that time, some wide-open-throttle (WOT) fun is actually good for the engine. After 300 miles you can start pushing the engine a little harder, but still go a little easy on it until the 1000 mile mark. You don't want to red line the engine a lot during the first 300 miles, so shift a little earlier than you would if it were a rental car. Some WOT and boosting is good for setting parts of the engine. The bottom line is to go a little easy on the engine during break in, but that some WOT fun is actually good for it. Some even say trashing the engine is best for it. Some still maintain going easy on it is the best. So it's really up for you to decide. I prefer to go a bit easy on it for normal driving, but give it some WOT runs now and then.
Most people say to leave the break-in oil in the car for the first 1500 miles then to switch to a fully synthetic oil. Some change their oil at 500, or even as low as 50 miles, but they replace the break-in oil with more traditional "dino" oil, not switching to synthetic until 1500 miles.
----
15) My milage is horrible! WTF?
A) This is normal. As you break the engine in, the milage will improve. How long it takes depends on many things, but you should generally start to see decent milage around 3000 miles.
----
16) My A/C makes a lot of noise. Just after I turn it on, it makes a loud sound, and sometimes while it is on it will make periodic noises. What's wrong?
A) Nothing. The sound is just the A/C's clutch engauging. It just happens to be a lot louder than most cars.
BAD GRINDING NOISE!!!! LOOK LOOK LOOK! (thanks)
(thanks Dr Who. and planetb)
----
17) My oil is green! OMGWTFBBQ!
A) This is normal. The break-in oil that comes in the SRT-4 is green. I have heard this is because they dye the oil to help spot leaks, but have also heard that it is just because of the properties of the break-in oil. I don't know either way- but all that is important is that it is normal. Everyone's SRT-4 comes with green oil. If you change to new oil and it is still green, have your system flushed. If you do and it is STILL green, then you might have coolent leaking into your oil.
----
18) My SRT-4 takes a few extra cranks to start when it's cold. Is this a sign of a problem?
A) No. It is normal for the SRT-4 to be a little harder to start when it's cold.
----
19) What can I do to make sure my SRT-4 remains reliable and in good condition?
A) A book can be written on this, but to make it simple:
-The SRT-4 is designed to be driven hard, so do not be afriad to drive it hard. But be aware that the harder you drive it, the more wear and tear will occur.
-Most recommend using synthetic oil, and changing it every 3K miles.
-An oil catch can is a popular add-on that will prevent blow-by oil from getting into the intake and intercooler, which can hurt performance.
-Check your oil level fairly regularly to make sure it isn't low, as the SRT-4 can burn a fair amount of oil (this is normal, just don't let the level get too low).
-Do all of the regular maintainence as described in the maintainence handbook.
-Most recommend sticking to 91 or higher octane, even though the driver's manual says using lower octane will lower your boost but not hurt your engine.
-Let the car warm up before you drive it hard, and let it cool down before you turn it off if you have been driving hard. The warm up allows oil to get to the cylinders and to warm up from its cold, sluggy state. The cool down is for the turbo. Turning the car off while the turbo is hot can cause oil to dry in the turbo.
-Don't go full-throttle under around 3000 RPM outside of first and maybe second gear. The exact RPM is a matter of debate and depends on your mods. Some say 2800 RPM is fine, some say 3000, and some say 3500. Reguardless of what RPM you use, the point is that going full-throttle at too low of an RPM can cause detonation and compressor surge, both of which cause excess wear. If you have been going WOT at low RPMs (especially in higher gears), just change your driving habits and don't worry. Some detonation or compressor surge won't make your engine explode, but it isn't something you want to make a habit of. (thanks hercfe)
----
Some easy to miss stuff:
-The seatbelt height can be adjusted on the B-pillar.
-There is a trunk release button in the glovebox.
-The optional power sun roof not only opens slightly at an angel, but will also fully retract if you hold the switch again after opening it at an angle.
-The storage compartment near the armrest has slots for CD jewel cases. And if you flip it all of the way open, the underside of the top will serve as a cup holder for people in the backseat.
----
Tricks:
-Reset PCM Computer
To reset your computer, unplug the negitive batery cable for 3 minutes or remove the yellow #30 fuse from the fuse box for about a minute. This will reset all knock and timing settings in the PCM.
-Find codes for check engine light.
If you check a check engine light, to find the problem, then the car off, then turn the key to "on" and then back to "lock" three times quickly without starting the car. The codes should appear near the odometer, you can press your trip button to scroll through the codes if you have more than one. Go here to see what your code means:
Trouble Code List
For more codes, scroll down a few posts to my post with the large list.
----
Popular and cheap mods and preventitive maintainence:
-Oil Catch Can
It is common on turbo and supercharged cars for blow-by oil to get through the PCV valve during vacuum. This oil gets consumed by the engine, and/or collects in the intake, intercooler, and other parts of the car. An oil catch can is a device that seperates the air from the oil, and collects the oil in a can, thus saving your engine from burning oil and preventing your intake and intercooler from getting gunked up. An oil catch can is not needed, but can improve the long-term health of your car and is a popular add-on. It is possible (and easy) to your make own catch can for only 20 dollars, so it is a good idea to do to save your investment.
http://dodge-srt4.com/howto/catchcan.html
-Check Valve
The PCV valve on the SRT-4 can leak boost. Putting a 1-way check valve after the PCV and before the throttle body (either before or after your catch can if you have one) can prevent this leak.
Oil in airbox & intercooler - PCV issue
PCV valve leaks under boost so get Check Valves
-Spring Mod
A simple (and cheap) spring in your wastegate can increase your boost. After a while, the PCM will catch on and pull timimg, but you can reset the PCM to get the boost back.
spring mod pic req.
Just did spring mod. WOW!!!!!
-Onmiphil mod
Hold more boost at higher RPM. Similar to the spring mod.
Omniphil Free Wastegate Mod...
-Rolled Bumper
This is a virtually free mod to change the look of your rear bumper cover. See what it looks like and how to do it here:
Rolled my bumper, and cleaned my exhaust (new thread)
Rolled my bumper, not the best pics, but what you think?
-Ziptie Lines
When increasing the boost of their SRT-4, it is rare but not impossible for some of the hoses to become disconnected under boost. Some SRT-4 owners ziptie all of their lines as an extra layer of protection. This is mainly important when using high levels of boost, but it might be a good idea to do it while stock as well. More about this later.
-Eyelids
Eyelids are an easy and cheap mod that is very popular. See the head light lids and buy them here:
http://www.srt4designs.com/
-Relocated brake switch wiring harness
The brake switch wiring harness is located under the clutch pedal and gets stomped on when the clutch is pushed all of the way in. It isn't really a problem, but over time it can cause wear to the wires, and some even claim it prevents the clutch from fully disengauging. It is very easy and quick to move the harness to a safer place. Better safe than sorry.
Found Potential Factory Wiring Problem!
-Coil pack/plug wires heat shield
Over time and with hard driving, the heat from the turbo can melt the plug wires. Modern Performance makes a heat shield to protect your plug wires and coil pack from the heat of the turbo. Does it actually help that much? I am not sure, but it's very inexpensive and gets you some piece of mind. Again, better safe than sorry. (thanks RSchyns and noTe)
http://www.modernperformance.com/dcx...ilshield.shtml
----
Common problems and fixes:
-If you are driving and your brakes feel like they stop working (they still work but the power assist is gone so you have to press down VERY hard), stop the car and turn it off (use the hand brake and downshift to come to a stop). Pop the hood and look for a disconnected line behind the battery. This line sometimes pops out under very heavy boost. If your car is stock you don't need to worry about this (though it can still happen to you). If you run higher boost you should ziptie all of your lines.
no brakes... ahhhhhhhh
-It is common for the sun roof to get stuck if you open it at high speeds. To play it safe, only operate the sun roof if you are stopped or going fairly slow. The driver's manual says not to use the sun roof if going more than 75 mph, but some people have had problems opening it even at lower speeds. If your sun roof gets stuck, go here:
Help! Moon roof stuck open
-Boost leak... Pretty obvious. If you are not getting as much boost as you should, a leak is likely the cause.
Boost Leak Discussion/Help Thread
-Another Common Problem is the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) going bad (written by acemp87)
Symptoms: RPMs During Idle jump around, RPMs seem to stick while driving, RPMs raise suddenly by themselves. Any or all of these symptoms can mean a bad TPS.
This problem is not caused by the TPS sensor itself, but by the harness that connects to it. The wiring is too short and becomes worn by the natural movement of the car (kinda like bending a paper clip constantly until it breaks). To check if this is the problem on your car you need to look at the throttle body. There are two electrical components that connect to it. IAC (black connector) and the The TPS (white connector). If you wiggle the wire and your car's RPMs seem to go erratic, you have a bad TPS wire. Dealer fixes it with an extended TPS wire or you can DIY.
TPS: Bad Idle, High Idle, P0123 Code? We May Have a DIY Fix
In my experience, the dealer I took it to changed the actual sensor, not the harness, which did not fix the problem. If you decide to take it to the dealer, make sure they change the wiring. They have a bulletin (TSB?) about it. (thanks acemp87)
----
More to come.
I will also be editting in "thanks _____" for each answer as I find the threads that provided these answers.
New Owners FAQ
Linear Mode
