Does anyone know of a reputable place to do a tune on my '05 here in SF Bay Area?

I dont know if there is already a page with the air fuel ratio numbers and info on wide band is so can anyone point the link out to me could not find it. I wanted to know the perfect airfuel ratio number im suppose to be at when wot-ing. This is kinda noob but when is it running to rich when its at 10.5 air fuel ratio or like a 16.5 air furl ratio?? I have a aem wideband and safc2...

if i put just the stage two pcm on my car will that add me any power im not planning on new injectors or a wastegate yet because i will be putting a 50 trim on eventually with the fuel upgrade. so would it hurt/help my car having the stage two pcm? anyting helps thanks guys.

Helping a friend out.

2004 srt4 with
stock turbo
3" 02 housing and dp and thermal exhaust
3" cold air intake
Stock injectors.

he has the diablo sport preditor with the 93 octane tune for stock setup car.

we will throw the wide band on it and see what the AF are and maybe might need a tune ??

a friend of mine has an 03 1500 dodge ram, and he wants me to instal an SLR motorsports performace chip. i tried registering with the appropriate forum but its not really working right now. Anybody know about the components of the MAF/IAT sensors? i need to splice some things and i dont want to mess anythinig up. please help
thanks
-sean

Okay so recently I installed a Boomba 70mm throttle body and the only way I can keep the rpms from hanging is to run with the IAC unplugged. I looked back at some old threads about other people with the same issue and this method was one of the recommended ways of getting around the issue. The car runs fine this way, only downside is the cel. Someone mentioned using a resistor from radioshack to get rid of the cel, but I tried it today and it didn't work. There's quite a few choices when it comes to buying a resistor so I wanted to make this thread so that hopefully someone can lead me in the right direction as to what resistor will work for this. Thanks in advance!

I bought a 05 ACR SRT on this site, cant be happier with it, love the car. But it came with a Turbo XS DTEC controller installed, along with the Nintendo gameboy advance, when i bought it the previous owner turned it on and showed me what it does and stuff but im not very inclined on tuning and had no idea how to take advantage of this thing. So what can i do to learn how to use it? Or is it for the person i get to tune the car, do they tune it with this at the dyno place? Or what does it do?

Here are the mods i have on the car if it matters.

K&N typhoon Cold Air intake
Stage 1 PCM
Mopar/borla exhaust
Mopar blow off valve
AEM wideband
Mopar short throw shifter
Tien Lowering springs

Other than dsp,sct,ems.

Something JUST to change rev limit. I dont want to spend all my money on something just to adjust one thing..

With our CMGS we are able to allow our customers to run more boost/timing etc....It also has a univeral failsafe feature. If you are not within your pre-set flow window or you are low on fluid it will trip the failsafe. The failsafe can be as simple as the CMGS always grouding an EBC until a flow problem occurs and then removing the ground to drop to wastegate pressure or interfacing with the vehcile electronics.

Please see this diagram of our CMGS Failsafe setup for the Subaru STI. It was recently discovered that on the Subaru if you ground the female side of the test connector you drop boost to a safe level, reduce timing, run rich and are in a limp mode. Our CMGS will trigger this to help save the engine under high load/boost and running out of meth...etc. See the diagram:



What I want to do is develop a failsafe that is specific to the SRT-4. I need ideas and help to do this. I am going to throw out an idea to start. Please comment on the validity of this idea, what it would do and what I would need to do to accomplish this. Also PLEASE give me any alternative ideas you have.

I read that if the ECU detects boost > 17 PSI it goes into a limp mode. I assume this is a voltage based sensor..the MAP sensor itself? If we were able to send 5V to that sensor would that trip the limp mode safety feature? Would this be sort of like doing a MAP clamp except trick the MAP into thinking it has more boost that it really does.

let me know what you experts think. We can have a great specific failsafe for your applications and we can integrate this into our upcoming CMGS FS SRT-4 Kit.

CM

Here's my mod list:

2005 Srt-4
Mopar S3 with TiAL wheel
N2MB Toybox 2.0
N2MB Wotbox w/2 step
N2MB Code Scrubber
Perrin FMIC (Painted black)
AGP S3 WGA
Perrin Catless TBE
Maxxfab S3 O2
AGP Solid motor/tranny mounts
JMB SRI w/tranny cover
ACT Street clutch w/XACT flywheel
DC Sports FSTB
AEM UEGO Wideband
Aeroforce Scangauge
Autometer 30/30
Mopar STS
Carbonworkz CF ELW clone lip
Sparco Sienna seats with Sparco brackets
Tenzo R DC-6 18in. wheels
M&H slicks on PT steelies (for track)
K-Sport Kontrol Coilovers
PTP Checkvalve
Home Depot Catch Can
Hardwired Beltronics fuzzbuster
Sparco Shiftknob

I've had my S3 on the car for almost 2 years. Best gas I can get here is 91 piss water. At WOT, boost spikes around 23 or so and holds 21-20psi. On my Interceptor, I'm not showing any knock at all. My AEM Uego is showing anywhere between 11.7 to 12.4ish, with it lately being in the low to mid 12s. I thought my O2 and my wideband O2 was going out because I run a bit of C16 so I replaced both of them and my AFRs stayed the same. I do not have any boost controller or map clamp; boost is controlled entirely by the PCM.

Now, I have heard that S3 fuel pumps are notorious for going out after a while and I'm starting to think that's the culprit. I started hearing a high pitched humming coming from the fuel pump. Of all the reading I've done here on the forums, when a fuel pump starts to go bad, it starts sputtering and just shuts down. I don't have any of that.

My questions is, other than the fuel pump, what could cause my leaner than normal conditions? Yes, I know my AFRs aren't that bad but as a "stock" S3 setup, it shouldn't be that lean. Anybody?

How do I reset my Stage 1 Morpar PCM?

I just put a WB on the car. mods are 3" catless SEE, FM WGA set to 15-16. and a BOV. the lowest Ive seen the WB go down to is 10.1. It has the peak/hold feature (Zeintronix). I usually see it in the lower 10 range. it idles at 14.7. I just placed an order for a DSP yesterday so Im not worried at all. Im just curious if thats normal for a stock 05.

ok so ive looked all over the place and i cannot figure it out. My buddy has an srt4 also with a tone of mods. hot and cold side pipe. turboxs rfl bov. straight pipe from turbo back. throttle body spacer. aem intake. agp wga. n spearco fmic. and a tune from a local shop in florida where he lives. this is the weird part. i have an intake and mopar plate and 2.5 straight pipe from cat back. mine pulls waaaayyy harder than his. i was looking at my ecu and it says software update could this have nething to do with it?

Anybody know anything about this tunning device?:intrestin