so i lift my P break up when I try to park and its not catching (the car will still roll, etc). I have been putting it into gear but how bad of an issue it this? I would like to get my parking break to be fully functional but how much would a repair like this run me? Oh and when I lift the break up the break light on the dash does come up, it all seems to be normal except for the fact that it doesnt catch and the car still rolls. Thanks in advance for all the help.

Looking to get my baby painted matte black. Anyone ever done it before?

I'm wondering what the main differences between the old Aeroforce Interceptor Scangauge and the new version are? I know the new ones have fan control but anything else?? And how important to you guys are these new added functions, do you use them much, are they worth it?

I just have you question about the diablosport...If I purchase this product and decide to tune myself, is this possible? Will I basically have controls to the extent of at least a SAFC? Thanks for any info!!!

I am helping a friend instill his AGP/Turbonetics 50 trim kit. He bought it used. Kit came with everything except one thing!!! The fitting that is supposed to go on the oil supply connecting to the block. He has the steel braided oil supply line supplied with the kit... He ordered the kit just over a year ago and just decided to go ahead and put it on... Anyone else had this problem and what can I do to fix it or does lowes,home depot, napa, advance, ect care anything that I can use?

We r trying to get the car done tomorrow if at all possible so any help is appreciated!

It about time for another boost leak test day. For those who missed out on the last... well here's your chance. A few things have changed since the last one so please read below...

When: December 12th (Saturday)
Time: 10am-I finish (seriously hope before dark ha)
Location: My House (pm for address/read the details below)

The cost of the boost leak test will be $10 per car. I will not touch your car till I receive payment first. I had a problem with someone leaving at the last one and not paying and till this day hasn't paid. Which is unfair for everyone else that did pay. That person I will never help ever again. Even though its only $10, I don't like being taken advantage. The cost is to cover my services including any regular supplies I use to fix normal boost leaks (zipties/small hose clamps), which can also include any gasket material or rtv I may have to use.

For the allotted time I will only do boost leak tests on cars who sign up on the sign up sheet in this thread. There are only (8) slots available. If the slots are full you are still welcome to hang out/stop by. In the event I have time to spare I may be able to fit more tests in that day. If I have time I will be able to do small installs at additional costs due to time. PM me if you have part(s) that you would like installed.

Food and drinks will be on hand and although its all been provided for free at my house in the past I ask that you be considerate and atleast donate some money towards it. As these donations will go to the Siberian Husky Rescue of Florida, of which many of you are aware my wife is a volunteer for. Consider this a small charity event to help Huskies along the way :thumbsup:

Please be prompt as for showing. I am not basing it on a schedule basis. It starts a 10am... on a first come first serve bases. So don't show up at 6pm, 8 hrs later expecting a boost leak test.

Hope this provides all information about the boost leak test day which will be held at my house. I also ask that you do not invite others without my permission as I will not be posting my address nor do I want anyone giving my address out.

***Disclaimer***
I repair most boost leaks. The reason its "most" and not "all" is because I have ran into instances where leaks could not be fixed and were out of my control to fix due to not having replacement parts. But I always give a recommendation and fix the leaks I do find and can fix.

when i bought my srt it has a sticker under the hood that says the pcm has been reflashed by a dodge dealer, so idk if that effects my problem, just throwin that in there....my problem is whenever i do anything to my exhaust the car wont run right...first i took the exhaust off and just ran open downpipe and whenever i got to goin bout 80-100 mph(the speed just varied), the car would like backfire and lose power for a moment then be fine..so i put the exhaust back on and it didnt do it anymore, so i thought maybe just the backpressure difference was affecting it..so then i gutted the stock downpipe with the stock exhaust pipes on and it started doin it again..and this time a code came up..p 0420..and it stayed on for a couple days then it went off, but it still does the backfire thing....ppl have suggested things such as regapping my spark plugs but that didnt change anything...and someone suggested taking it off pcm controlled boost, but idk how to do that....i have a foward motion wga..so could someone tell me how to take it off pcm control or give me any other options...any help would be great

No guessing here either, trying to update some facts here and there seems to be some discrepancy on whether or not the car has a P215/60R16 or P205/60R15?

I already know the ACR tire size is P225/45 16", but supposedly the full size spare is a different size?

Wikipedia isn't helping because that is what needs to be fixed.

So if someone can take a quick look at their actual spare and not just say what they 'think' it is, I'd appreciate it :)

I have a stock 05 computer , and i am wondering where i can send it to get flashed to a stage one mopar tune? I cant seem to find anywhere to get it done. ANY info would be appreciated greatly.

Did my ECU get fried?

So I had gotten 2 email tune files for my cars setup. I tried the first tune file out today which was a street tune for 18 psi with my mod setup. I plug in the handheld, flash/load the tune. device finishes and tells me it was "successful". I said "sweet", hoped in my car, started it up. It started up just fine, i let it idle for awhile to let it warm up and just to check everything over before i test the tune out. I checked all my lines, i checked all my visable seals, etc. I rev it up a little bit(between 2 to 3k rpms) it sounds nice, and sounds like its working like it should. I back out, and drive down the first road. too much traffic to "play" so i take the nearest back road(keeping in mind this is no more than a mile so far) Car was at running temp everything was good on the gauges, oil pressure good, no CELs. I start pushin in the gas pedel and turbo starts to spool, I hit about 10psi climbing when the car just stops wanting to go and then all my guages shut off and my car dies. No loud noises or sounds so im confused at first, I coast to the side of the road and try to start her back up. I get nothing, no cranking over, and the starter doesn't even "click" or make any noise like its tryin to work. I pop my hood and look at everything, everything looks good, i look under my car, no puddles, no trails of fluid from where it shut off at. All fluid levels good. try to start again, nothing. I plug my SCT handheld in and it doesn't turn on when plugged into my car, it works when plugged into my laptop. Never had this problem before I loaded the tune onto my car. Any ideas? It seems like something electrical.. did my ECU fry?

Team Tos Stage 2 vs Stage 3R - Car Videos on StreetFire

:hi: I want to buy one of your down pipes but i'm nervous about fittment. When i bought my car it came with a 3" cat back w/ magnaflow components but i think it's custom built. The down pipe goes into a 3bolt flange. How can i ensure your pipe will fit? Are there dims. i can give you guys or will a picture due the trick. I'm assuming you custom build them per order that's why i'm asking. I'm trying to avoid going to a shop for this.

Found this on a different forum, I thought some of the serious racers and teams may find this interesting.


The Battle of the Imports will be offering a new class for the 2010 season. “After closely observing the last few seasons, we have noticed the need to address the existing Street Comp class and decided it was time to add an Outlaw version,” commented Frank Choi, National Event Director. The new class will be called Outlaw Comp.

Thanks to CTRParts.com, Midnight Performance Race Clinic and RTO Specialties, this class will be offered as a beta class at the 2009 season finale event at the Auto Club Dragway located in Fontana, CA this Sunday November 22, 2009.

The basic rule structure will mirror the existing Street Comp class with the following changes:

Turbochargers will be restricted to a maximum size of 72mm.
Air to water intercoolers will be permitted.
Maximum size for drive tires will be 26-inches tall and 10-inches wide. “W” tires are not permitted.
Minimum weight with driver is 2,400 pounds.

For 2010, the traditional Street Comp class will also have the following minor changes:

Turbochargers will be restricted to a maximum size of 67mm.
Air to air intercoolers only.
Maximum size for drive tires will be 25-inches tall and 9-inches wide. “W” tires are not permitted.
Minimum weight with driver is 2,200 pounds.

“The addition of the Outlaw Comp class will bring more parity to the already competitive Street Comp class,” added Choi. Additional rules will be announced in the near future.

I haven't posted one of these up before, figured I would see what advice I can get.

As far as what the wideband was reading....well my sensor decided to take a shit AGAIN and it's only 1 week old so it was pegged at 10.0 the whole time. Before I believe it was in the mid to high 11s.

Deposit Files

How can I figure out how much boost I was running without the baro parameter being logged? Didn't see it on the new parameters list..

Enjoy
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