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How To: Install 3rd gear extender.

105K views 200 replies 52 participants last post by  m4mckeen 
#1 · (Edited)
A lot have asked for a How-to for this subject. I was doing mine today so I decided to make one. Enjoy. :thumbsup:


Remove battery, tray, air intake and anything obstructing access to the top plate on the transmission.



Pull up on the shift cables, they pop right off. Move to the side.

I recommend removing the trans mount. Its one 1/2in mount bolt and it gives you room to wrench. Be sure to support it with a jack and a wood block, this will also aid you in lining up the trans mount to slide the long bolt back in.

Remove the seven 13mm bolts from the top plate. I use a gear wrench for this.



Note: The bolt under the counter weight will NOT come out of the plate. The idea here is to loosen it last and bring the plate up off the trans while rotating the bolt counterclockwise.



Cover the exposed transmission with a towel or something to prevent objects from falling into it.
Place your trans plate in a vice, or secure it somewhere you can bang on it and it won't move.



Using a punch and hammer, or mallet, remove the two pins in the shaft. They hold the shift selector on and the stock _____ (IDK what the OEM item the 3rd gear extender replaces is called)
Note the positions of the items before removing them.





Stock part on the left of the 3rd gear extender for comparison.


Clean the items with something, I used a "lint free" shop towel.

Re assemble the shift selector and 3rd gear extender onto the shaft and make sure the notches are properly aligned.




Install locking pins.



Clean the mating surfaces of the plate and the transmission. I use paint thinner and a wire brush. If you do this you MUST have a shop vac to remove any dust or debris you agitate on, in and around the open transmission.




Run a bead of Transmission sealant Mopar part # ________, or equivalent Anaerobic sealant. Failure to use the appropriate sealant may result in seal failure and corrosion.

I use this:



Install plate onto top of transmission. Note: I place the shift selector in the middle position to align the internals and make sure the forks are aligned to allow the selector to slide into them.



Begin tightening the bolt under the weight first. As you tighten each bolt periodically move the counterweight to ensure it moves freely and without restriction.
I can't fit a torque wrench in the bay there, so I tightened the bolts until I was confident they were tight enough. Some people use Loctite or Threadlock, that is acceptable, as long as the bolts are in fact tight.
Attempt to shift the car, engine off, into each gear. I have never had any problem not being able to do this after install.

I lost the end to my sealant, so that's the reason for my putty knife and fat ass bead. I cleaned it up before I put the plate in, so nothing dripped into the trans.

If anyone can help me fill in the blanks I will. All help is appreciated.

If in the process of installing a shift selector at the same time, and you break the roll pin, it can be ordered here: https://www.partswebsite.com/wermopar It is part number 6101475
 
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#69 ·
I know this has been a dead thread for a few months now but how long with ratcheting tools and such does this typically take the first time around. I have air tools just need to fix my compressors pressure switch, dang thing flew apart on me.
 
#71 ·
If it takes you longer than 3 years something is wrong haha.
:hi: Edited for Josh :rofl:

Okay, well it took me probably 2 hours, but it was my first time and I took a butt-load of photos. You wont need air tools, but ratcheting wrenches work well :thumbsup: I couldn't live with out them.

The bolt of main concern is the bolt directly under the counterweight. My technique is get a wratcheting wrench, and do this bolt last. Put the box end on it and ratchet away. You will need to pop off the plate to be able to push the bolt down far enough to remove the wrench from between the hex and the weight. Once again, do this bolt last. It's also a good time to replace your shift cable bushings or shift selector, if you plan on them.
 
#77 · (Edited)
Did anybody ever find out if the vibrations from the extender do any harm? As in the extender pushes pushes it too far into gear and causes excessive wear or damage?

I'm thinking about ordering the extender because I'm having the same problems with it popping out of 3rd sometimes only when down shifting but never when up shifting.
 
#79 · (Edited)
We all have problems, every year. as far as I know the excessive vibration does not cause more wear, but it may make an owner put off replacing parts that need a fix, not a bandaid.

I have aluminum shifter bushingss, and the vibration is audible and annoying.
 
#80 ·
Thank you 03redsrt4 and jtm0n3y for the help. Did the selector and extender today. Took me two hours because I had to go back to the store for stupid rtv which I thought I had. My craftsman gearwrenches were too thick for the bolt under the counter weight but it was easy as pie. Thanks a ton guys!
 
#85 ·
Well no pop out at all tonight either. If this is just a bandaid for me, which it most likely is, then it's one heck of a nice bandaid.
Completely agreed man. I was very happy with my results. Made my day brother :thumbsup:

Jtm0n3y still didn't notice my edit on his earlier post :jester:
 
#87 ·
Hahaha no I didn't catch that earlier. Not sure how to take that...either I'm slow as hell, or my skills surpass all those known to man.




























Probably the latter of the two!
 
#90 ·
Yeppers. DONT' use the aluminum shifter bushings with a 3rd gear extender. They increase vibration a LOT!
 
#100 ·
Their address conformation and limited account functions. When they implemented that my PayPal transaction for the bushings was terminated, and my money I sent to Chris Burd was refunded. He said it was a pay pal decision, and he was right. I had to "re pay" this morning.
 
#101 ·
Ah yeah they did that to my account to whenever I tried to print a shipping label. How they deemed printing a label as fraudulent activity is beyond me but it was a pain in the ass.
 
#102 ·
Hey 03redsrt I tried to do this today it's was a pain in the ass to take off all those screws but still got stuck on the one screw under the counter weight couldnt un screw it got any ideas and that whole thing was so tight on there even with that bolt out I don't think it will come up... What a bitch it was to align the trani again
 
#105 ·
True, and be careful not to allow any debris to fall into the case. Use a shop vac if needed.

Make sure the last bolt is loose before you pry too much.
 
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